Top end - piston/KIPS question

[dougjc]

2003 KDX220 that I decided to install a wiseco piston. The top of the original piston was almost totally covered in black carbon, preety common? The piston skirt and cylinder wall were also dark, but not carbon build-up, is that normal? I know I was running rich most all of last season, is that the cause?

I had not intended to take the KIPS exhaust valve apart but pulled the cover off anyway, it was very dark and spooogy. Do you think its worth pulling it all apart and cleaning? I have the manual, is it preety straight forward for an amatuer mechanic?

One last thing, any tips on removing the piston without the special tool?

Doug

 

[dougjc]

One other thing, what do you use to get the carbon off the cylinder head? I also got the piston out with no problem, slid right off.

 

[kevinkdx]

As far as the carbon on top of the piston that is normal. For the piston skirt mine are normally dark when i replace them and the cylinder wall i really don't know. I would recommend that since you have the top end apart anyways that you take apart and clean the kips system cuz that gets gummed up quick and eventually will not work if you don't clean it. My advice is to get the repair manual and read it, if you do, you should have not problem with the kips system.

 

[jamin326]

if you were running rich then that's why the cylinder wall is dark, carbon build up on the top of the piston is normal, since you already have the top end apart i would definetly take apart and clean the kips, it isn't that hard and it's a good experience, just make sure you follow the manual in putting it back together, the kips is something you want to clean every season if you ride a lot becuase it will affect your low end power. i found that briggs and stratton carb cleaner works realy well to clean up carbon, i've tried other carb cleaners but they were not as strong as the briggs and stratton one.

 

[louis]

Do the kips. Take your time and mark all the parts, its not that trickey.

 

[wibby]

For cleaning the KIPS and anything else with spooge on it, use Yamaha Combustion Chamber Cleaner

 

[canyncarvr]

When you removed the cylinder, did you support the KIPS activation shaft when you wrenched off the LHT nut at the top?

If you didn't, you should replace that shaft...cuz if you don't it will likely break. That breakage may cause a whole lot of $$$ in damage.

 

[wibby]

BTW, when you put that nut back on it only takes 74 in-lbs

at least that's what the "E" model calls for

 

[KnoxKDX]

Do you have to split the case to get the LHT governor shaft off? The service manual is unclear about that. Is it just me or do any of you wish there was a Climbers or Chiltons for these things? Aside from a few exploded views and some specs, this thing is pretty vague.

 

[dougjc]

I have 1 more question (hopefully last one). I was trying to take the main shaft nut off the KIPS and it is very tight. I was a little concerned about wailing on the nut and bending something because it puts a lot of pressure on the whole shaft. I'm talking about the nut on the right side of the shaft that needs to come off in order to slide the whole shaft out. Any help?

 

[canyncarvr]

Said earlier: 'When you removed the cylinder, did you support the KIPS activation shaft when you wrenched off the LHT nut at the top?'

Do you know what LHT means?

That's 'left hand thread'.

So, it's CCW to tighten it, and CW to loosen it.

Uh...that's 'counter-clock-wise' and 'clock-wise.'

It's not that tight. Maybe someone used loctite red to put it back together? That might be a problem. Uh...don't use an airtool on it! ;)

re: split the cases?

Heavens no!! Take off the RH cover, yes. Certainly the cases don't need to be split.

The RH cover under the clutch cover. That's self evident, right?

 

[dougjc]

I'm not talking about the shaft lever nut behind the advancer shaft lever cover, that cover has 3 screws holding it on. I'm talking about the nut on the other end of the shaft. Its behind the large screw cap.