Alright. Here's the issue but before I get some smart A$$ response and have someone tell me to do a search, I already did and I didn't find anything too too similar. Anyways. I have a problem with my clutch . I adjusted it and it's releasing really late and seems as if it's slipping so I believe I need some new plates. Correct me if I am wrong. Anyways. My transmission oil after an hour ride or so does not leak out of the oil level check bolt. The oil just somehow isn't there any more. I can't find any signs of a leak anywhere. Is it possible that the worn clutch plates are somehow burning the oil or is this another problem as well?? Need help please. THanks guys
Tranny oil problem
- Thread starter Jeromeo
- Start date
You may have leaking seals.
If your bike has an exhaust bridge, you should fix that crank seal probelm ASAP. Clutch debris in the oil sticks to the hot exhaust bridge and grind away at your piston. I wore a pretty deep groove in my piston in a very short time (about 4-6 hours) as a result of a bad crank seal. A new seal is less than $10. There is a spacer that the seal rides on, this sometimes develops grooves and may need to be replaced.
On to the clutch problem, pull the cover and inspect. Your service manual will publish specs for all of the friction and clutch plates. Check the basket for notches.
On to the clutch problem, pull the cover and inspect. Your service manual will publish specs for all of the friction and clutch plates. Check the basket for notches.
To do a crank seal, you generally have to remove the right side engine cover, the clutch basket, and the crankshaft gear. It's not that hard of work if you have an impact wrench. Then, you drill holes in the seal and install sheet metal screws in the seal and pry/pull the seal out. This is the hardest part. Parts you'll need are generally a quart of oil, coolant, a water pump cover gasket, side cover gasket, washer with the bendy tabs on it that goes under the clutch hub retaining nut(I can never remember the names for these), the seal, and maybe the spacer.
phatford92
Member
- Jun 9, 2007
- 51
- 0
Yes be very careful taking the clutch hub definatly use a impact wrench will save u time and greif
If you don't have one, you'll have to devise a way to lock up the engine while knock the bolts loose/tighten them. I've had success sticking a piece of lead between the primary gear of the crankshaft and clutch gear while loosening the primary drive gear. To do the clutch hub, if the engine is installed in the frame, you can put the transmission in gear and use the brake and a buddy or something to hold the rear wheel so the transmission doesn't turn. They make a special tool that can be used to lock up the transmission it grabs on to the inner clutch hub. Just don't use a prybar between the clutch outer hub fingers and the inner hub, a friend broke a finger off attempting this technique. That is a $200 whoops.
- Thread starter
- #11
that sucks. I don't have an impact wrench and I don't want to get one because my father has one and I wouldn't use it after this job. I also don't want to have everything out and not be able to take that gear off. I think i may bring in to get serviced. i got quoted ridiculous amounts of time like 3 hours labor and maybe 8 and another shop quoted me at 5 hours and another 2 but they are booked up till mid July. I am gonna keep calling around hopfully I find a better quote. The shop rates are $85 per hlour canadian. And the canadian dollar ain't far behind the american dollar. Do you guys think it really takes this long to do the crank seals?
I would NOT just put seals in,a shop probably won't either.The seal may be bad because of the crank main bearing is bad,gm knows.
Search for "leak down test"
