Trashed my transmission!!! "98 200

[mmmbeergood]

I was on the trail when my bike started making a god-awful noise in 4th gear. I stayed out of 4th as much as possible back to the trailhead, but the damage was done. My mechanic said that a tooth broke off and worse turned to worst. I need a whole new transmission, bearings, and seals. Estimate was over $600 in parts alone. I'm looking for, mabey a whole bike, well used, but with a good bottom end to swap, and have some spare parts. It's always more expensive to buy things piece by piece, and I'd really like to avoid it.
If anyone has any suggestions please let me know.
Thanks...

Gordo

 

[jamin326]

you could call up jeff Fredette at FRP and see if he has a bottom end
708-946-0999

 

[CMcCarthy]

I've seen several complete KDX engine/trannys sell on Eb@y for less than $500, and it's usually Fredette that buys them, his userid is kdxdoc. He should certainly have one, or you could try to find one out there yourself.
Good Luck,
Charles

 

[Bill Hibbs]

It's that Dang ATF oil... :eek:

:laugh:

 

[mmmbeergood]

I checked with FRP, and prices are similar. Right now, it looks like unless someone is either parting out, or getting rid of a whole "well used" bike, It's not going to happen. I think It would be easier, and cheaper to buy the whole she-bang and just swap out engines. Anybody out there willing to part with a bike that still has a strong engine for under $1000???

 

[fuzzy]

Originally posted by Bill Hibbs
It's that Dang ATF oil... :eek:

:laugh:

LMAO!!!!

 

[mmmbeergood]

The guy at FRP said that it was probably part of the kips that broke off and did the damage. (guess he's seen it before).

Anyways...
Does anyone know if any othe model/year will fit my bottom end other than 95-2003 200/220? and will an entire 220 engine bolt on to my 200 frame?
Thanks...

Gordo

 

[KDXTrreme]

I had the EXACT same thing happen on my '98 KDX200 about a month and a half ago. I only had 2 weeks b4 the GNCC started so I bit the bullet and sent it to Fredette, who I have a good relationship with. Yep, he said, It's the KIPS pin. It destroyed 4 gears and 1 gear-on-a-shaft. While he was in the cases I had him replace all seals and bearings so I wouldn't have to worry about them for a while.

I had been having trouble with my KIPS system freezing up and staying locked open. As quickly as 3 weeks after a top-end rebuild they were sticking again, I had changed a few of the gearing parts in the KIPS system (claw and advancer rod) with no success. Jeff said this was definitley a contributing factor to the KIPS pin breaking off. I decided to send him the whole engine so he could check it out. It turned out that the guy who had the motor before me had NEVER done any maintenance. The machining in the cylinder where the KIPS valves go had been chewed up and worn by the gunk/carbon that had sat in there for so long so as soon as I got a little goo build-up they started to sieze open.. time for a new cylinder.. Jeff got me a slightly used cylinder he guaranteed was in good shape, he had just ported it and it had low hours so the plating was good. I had him do the entire top-end as well.. Piston, etc...
All-in-all with shipping it cost me $807 but I now have a basically brand new engine in the bike and I will be able to maintain it as I do without worrying about damage done by the previous owner. I should be able to ride this thing for years to come!
Anyway, just wanted to share my experience in hopes it may shed some light on your situation. If you invest $800 in the bike you can have a machine that will last you many many moons.
Out of curiosity, at what interval were you cleaning your KIPS system? What type of pre-mix do you use? Did you ever just order gaskets and rebuild the topend without replacing the piston, basically, just a KIPS clean-up?
I was using H1R premix and have switched to Golden Spectro. Jeff said he could always tell an engine that had been run on H1R because it would have a TON of carbon deposits and everything would be gummed up. He said he could tell immediatly that's what I was running. I have switched and have had no problems with KIPS system sticking and really no spooge to speak of. I have put probably 20 hrs. on the bike since the rebuild.
Anyway, wow what a long post. I'll go now. Hope some of this helps.

 

[Canadian Dave]

Before you service your top end be sure to check out this article and avoid this kind of problem.

Yes a 95 to 03 KDX200 or 97 to 03 KDX220 engine will bolt straight into your frame.

David

 

[mmmbeergood]

I bought the bike used a year ago, and it ran great. But, unfortunateley, at that time, I knew little about kips maintenence, and which oil to use, and more importantly, which NOT to use. I switched to golden spectro, but the damage had apparently already been done by the 1st owner. I did rebuild the top end, and installed a new wiseco piston, but that was childs play compared to cleaning the kips (YUCK!!!)
Anyways, thanks for the input!!
P.S. will a 220 engine have the same bolt pattern for the frame?

 

[mmmbeergood]

Sorry, I'm blind, disregard the P.S.

Gordo

 

[BRush]

Originally posted by KDXTrreme
[B Jeff said he could always tell an engine that had been run on H1R because it would have a TON of carbon deposits and everything would be gummed up. He said he could tell immediately that's what I was running. [/B]

I had the same experience. The first owner of my bike ran H1R. The top end was much cleaner after a year of running Mobil MX2T