What the fork?

KXTodd

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Nov 25, 2000
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Just came in from changing the fluid on my forks for the first time! A learning experience for sure but also looks like i have some troubles :(
I did take them down as far as removing the cartridge on the bottom, had to use an air gun, I bought some pvc pipe but I couldn't figure out how it is supposed to fit past the long plastic ridged part and still fit in the groove , theres only like an 1/8" space because there is a ring around grooved nut? Make any sense at all? I took some pictures but haven't got a new host site yet. I used the gun and it worked out OK anyhow but I still want to make that tool for the next time:)
When I was putting the first one back together there was an alum. spacer on top under the spring seat I didn't notice before? Hmm, the other one doesn't have one? There is a 50mm difference between them. The one w/the spacer is shorter. Is that much of a difference going to be dangerous? I don't do any big jumps or anything but I can't afford to be buying new springs right now, been riding like that since I got it.
Also when pumping the outer tube to drain one of the forks about 3-4" from the bottom it is sticking, not wanting to travel all the way down , I can smack it and it will go past this spot. I couldn't see a ridge or flat spot anywhere on the tube, could it be so slight that it's not visible? Or could it be the bushings inside? I didn't pull the tubes apart to check them. Thanks and sorry for the long post:uh:
 

KXTodd

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Nov 25, 2000
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OK skip the other stuff, how about the tubes sticking, what could it be?
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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KXtodd .
To use the catridge holding tool you 1st need to remove the spring guide-this is done by holding it in your hand and undoing the alloy nut on the top.
Then you can remove the spring guide and o ring.
Now you can see where the cartridge holding tool fits.

It doesnt matter if the springs are different lengths as long as the are preloaded (compressed) the same amount when you refit them.The amount of preload should be 5-8mm.To measure this take the spring length when on the bench then measure it again in the fork with the cap tightened.

The fork not going down the last 3" is real serious and should be looked into-it will get a little stiffer on the last 1" but it should be smooth by hand with just an increase in damping at the end of the stroke.

I suggest you remove the damper rod assembly and see if it works ok when out of the fork leg-have you dropped something in the fork?
 

KXTodd

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Nov 25, 2000
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Thank you Marcus, I don't quite get how you measure preload while compressed inside the fork?
No I'm sure I didn't drop anything in the fork that's why I was worried about it, The damping rod works fine, I noticed the sticking when everything was out and I was pushing the tubes together?
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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If you have the damper rod assembly on the bench and build it up like its in the fork
ie put the spring guides/o rings /fork spring on and then the fork cap ,you will basically have the built up forks but naked.Tighten the fork cap like normal.Now measure the springs length.Take the fork spring off and measure it again- the difference should be 5mm.

As for the sticking-now the only thing i can think of is a damadged tube the piston rides in-from the bottom look up the fork tube, and look for high spots-shiny parts-move the damper rod through its travel and see where its hitches up.
 

KXTodd

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Nov 25, 2000
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OK got it, that is adjustable?
Yup the sticking part must be a tube problem , sounds expensive:(
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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You can use flat washers to space the spring or even a piece of pvc pipe.

If the tube is damadged maybe you can get it honed back into a perfect tube.
 

KXTodd

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Nov 25, 2000
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Thanks again, man I just saw how many threads you've responded to! I think you deserve a big "S" on your labcoat in your avatar:confused:
 

marcusgunby

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jan 9, 2000
6,450
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KXtodd -i guess i need to get out more:confused: i enjoy helping out and when its appreciated its no chore:)
 
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