Wild ’05 WR 250. How to tame?

G520

Member
May 1, 2005
4
0
Loving my ’00 CR 250 for off-road/trail riding I figured a ’05 WR would be a even better bike for me. A bit less aggressive and more user friendly – right? WRONG !!!

This machine is a wild beast. The engine has a hard, violent hit and is more aggressive than the CR’s. The suspension is a bit harsh.

Having only a few hundred KM on the bike I’m hoping the suspension will get a bit softer with time. But the engine must be toned down.

When I got the bike one week ago, I was happy with the soft character of the engine as I was breaking it in. After breaking in the engine in, I gave full throttle and nothing happened. The bike had no mid/high power at all. Since the bike did come correctly jetted, I didn’t think it had the exhaust restrictor, but it did.

So after removing the restrictor the engine has tons and tons of power in the mid/high rpm’s, but is much too explosive in loose rocks and slick conditions. I find myself again and again sideways in turns due to wild wheel spin.

What I want is a smooth bottom end, soft mid engine that wakes up in the higher mid and pulls pretty hard on top (no power explosions). I don’t care if I loose several HP on top, this engine has more power than I ever could use. I want a power band that is somewhere between what I have now, and how it was with the restrictor in the exhaust.

Please give your opinions. Do I:

Jet it a bit rich and retard the ignition?
Fabricate a better-flowing-than-standard restrictor?
Buy a different pipe?
Something else?????.
 

Camstyn

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Oct 3, 1999
2,246
2
Don't jet it rich and retard the ignition, you'll foul plugs and retarding the ignition will just give you more top end, sacraficing bottom.
I'dry putting in steel clutch plates, a flywheel weight, a steel rear sprocket and a heavy o-ring chain (if it didn't come with one), not neccessarily in that order. All of these will add to the flywheel inertia and make the bike rev slower. Other than that, you could try gearing it a bit taller to tame it as well, if you don't need a super low 1st gear for the riding that you do.
 

Bigcahunak

Member
May 2, 2005
2
0
G520
Same answer as on TT forum:
First, cograts on your new bike - its a great one.
Suspention would be just as plush after break in - no worries - cant find any better for hard enduro.
Power delivery - all you need is to find a longer silencer. Its easier and cheaper that any pipe. I put on the FMF Gnarly two weeks ago (Pipe and silencer). Yesterday I took it off, cleaned it up and today comes its new buyer... bye bye.
The FMF makes a good power (maybe too much) but what really made the power difference was the silencer. I tried both pipes (Husky OEM and FMF Gnarly) with all 4 silncer options (1. Husky with intenal sparky. 2. Husky original long - european. 3. Husky short CR. 4. FMF), and here is what I find:
Gnarly made a little more than husky pipe regardless to which silencer I hooked on it, but... What really made the difference was the silencer. Husky short CR (3) and FMF (4) where the same - explosive instant power suitable for good traction and lots of throttle. The Husky sparky (1) was... friendly... no hits and pleasant to ride for hours but no competitive. The Husky long one (3) was the best of both worlds - traction + power - it sticks out further off of the side panel and threatens to help bending your subframe in some nasty crashs, but sweet on the power delivery.
It would probably be very hard to find, but I'd consider building/modifying an older one and making it long (easy for me to say - I have all the tools for the job...).
 

bud

Member
Jun 29, 1999
433
0
G520 said:
Since the bike did come correctly jetted,

What exact jetting do you have? Mine has minor jetting mods but is otherwise stock. The power is extremely smooth and there's lots of it. There is nothing resembling a hit...

I am using a 14t sprocket to make more wr like :).
 

G520

Member
May 1, 2005
4
0
Thanks guys for the advice and info.

The jetting is standard, I don’t have the papers in front of me, but I think it is not different from the previous years (400 main exc.)

Now that may be a bit lean according to the jetting spec I got with the bike, the temperature is rather low this time of year. I guess I will start out by fattening the jetting some.

I already did install the 14-tooth sprocket.


The ’00 CR was indeed more user friendly. It did have a dent in the pipe. It also had richer jetting, but that’s not saying much as it had a different muffler and probably also a different pipe.

I got an extra carb slide with the jets and needle. Any info/experience of how it is different?


“The Husky sparky (1) was... friendly... no hits and pleasant to ride for hours”
I might want to try this one out. Where can I get one?
 

Avena Quaker

Member
Dec 9, 2004
54
0
Put a straight taper jet needle... that will take the hit out..

the other thing would be messing with the powervalve to delay its opening, but I don't know if it can be done with the WR...
 

G520

Member
May 1, 2005
4
0
I got a 430 main jet and moved the needle one step up. The #3 slide is in the carb, and the stock pilot jet.

The difference is dramatic. The nervous, explosive power delivery is gone. The bike still has lots and lots of power, but the delivery is much more user friendly. It’s amazing how much better the bike handles now, a pure joy to ride.

I have been riding at a altitude close to sea level in cold weather ( 5° C). I guess the jetting was lean. The jetting now is a bit rich, but that is only noticeable when giving full throttle from low-mid RPM. Then the engine bogs for a fraction of sec before building power. Still, the engine does not load up, and has not yet fouled a plug. I may need to lean it out a little later in the summer, but for now I’m happy.

I will try out the bike for a while as it is. If I need a smoother engine still, I will look into a new muffler.


Thanks a lot for the advice...
 

hoov165x

Member
May 31, 2002
106
0
Try a JD Jetting kit for a CR250 Honda. Buy the Nozzle from your dealer. Use the spec below-
390 Main
S8 Nozzle
Red needle #3 pos.
#4 Slide
32.5 Pilot
Adjust A.S. as necessary.

This combo will kill the hit and make it a good bike for rocks, roots, slick stuff etc.

Hoov
 

hoov165x

Member
May 31, 2002
106
0
Tugsy,
Yes I do have the JD kit in place. 1500' / 70 degrees F. Since I didn't want to be a total Guinea Pig, I changed the one remaining thing in the carb that is unlike the CR 250 Honda- the needle jet or pulveriser, or nozzle as it is referred to. The Honda actually comes with an S9 which is slightly richer but most guys are switching to an S8. The stock WR nozzle is an R5 which is a bit leaner. The stock WR needle is a 60 as compared to the Red needle which is a 68 and the blue which is 65 in diameter. It is possible to use your stock nozzle but as James testing was done with CR Honda jetting, I thought I would use that as a baseline. BTW, don't waste your money on the throttle gizmo as you won't have to worry about an accident if your right wrist twitches (with this jetting).
 

Tugsy

Member
Feb 24, 2004
60
0
Cool...I put the JD kit in last week and going to try tomm. Red needle #3 and 70 degrees at 5000 FT with the 32.5 pilot and 390 main. I will let you know what I find. How is the power now on your bike? Do you have much spooge from exhaust. I like the hit a little at the top. Hope it is not gone.
 

Tugsy

Member
Feb 24, 2004
60
0
I think the red at #3 is bit lean for me....I will try moving the clip to #4 position or I might go with Blue Needle...It wont pull off the bottom like before. Up top it is great with a little surge at mid range. Any ideas?
 

hoov165x

Member
May 31, 2002
106
0
Tugsy said:
Hoov,

How are you doing with your jetting and does the nozzle work with the JD kit?

Tugsy,
Rode today. I tried another combo- 380 Main, #3 slide, stock needle #1 pos, 30 pilot. I didn't even try to fine tune this combo as it felt too responsive for the woods- also had a flat spot- probably could have tuned it out with as adjustment. It was a recommendation from my dealer. So................... I went back to a 390 main, #4 slide, S8 nozzle, red JD needle #3 pos, 30 pilot, as 1 1/2 turns out. This combo seems to work real well and softens the response. It is MUCH better in the roots and rocks as well as tight technical stuff. It comes on more linear and still hauls butt. Today was a little warmer and it may have been just a tad rich- but very close. I may try a 380 main next or #2 clip pos on the needle. Maybe. A little more spooge today than last time, but hey it is a two stroke, huh? Also, stock suspension is pretty good. Try 90 mm in the front fork instead of the stock 80 mm. Tried 100 but it dove too much. I am also running a 5.2 spring in the back (stock is a 5.4)- I am 185 lbs. w/ no clothes. Stock clickers so far. Works good if you are aggressive. Easiest bike to set up and get used to that I have ever had.
Hoov
 

Tugsy

Member
Feb 24, 2004
60
0
Hey Hoov,

I scraped the JD needle and went back to stock in #2 on #3 slide, 390 main and 32.5 pilot. I am at 6000 ft and went between 5k to 7k and it ran really went well. I think I am still to rich off very bottom but makes for longer throttle control. Anyway I got an email from guy who rode Mika Aholas Enduro Cross bike and he said it had a Sudco Needle in it and ran great at the Idaho Qualifier. I have it comig so I will let you know.
 

hoov165x

Member
May 31, 2002
106
0
Tugsy said:
Hey Hoov,

I scraped the JD needle and went back to stock in #2 on #3 slide, 390 main and 32.5 pilot. I am at 6000 ft and went between 5k to 7k and it ran really went well. I think I am still to rich off very bottom but makes for longer throttle control. Anyway I got an email from guy who rode Mika Aholas Enduro Cross bike and he said it had a Sudco Needle in it and ran great at the Idaho Qualifier. I have it comig so I will let you know.


Wow, that sounds way rich for your elevation. What about the jetting guide in the owners manual, have you tried the recommendations there? Let me know how the new needle works.

Hoov
 

Tugsy

Member
Feb 24, 2004
60
0
Hoov..it is a little to rich on bottom right now. I will wait until I get the new needle and go from there. Another problem now that has me concerned. My shifter uis getting stuck up and down between shifts. I posted a more detialed desc. in thumpertalk under Husky forum. Help!
 
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