Well I was finally convinced, installed the XR springs today. They were $52.95 each CDN vs $67.95 each for Kawasaki springs, that helped the decision. With a measured distance between the top of the installed spring and the bottom of the fork cap, installed on the extended rod, of 3mm, I ended up needing a piece PVC pipe exactly 10mm for a 10mm preload. ( 10mm pipe + 3mm of spacer guides ) Just lucky I guess. I now have an unloaded sag of 1.25" and a loaded sag of 2.5". I think this is in the right ballpark. Question is does anyone know the relationship between preload & sag ? i.e. how much would an increase of 2mm of preload on the springs lessen the unloaded sag ?
Where can I find good info (instructions) on installing new springs, preload, oil level, etc? I feel fairly comfortable doing it, but forks are something I've just never been into before. Thanks!
Have not tried the forks yet, still too much snow up here, I'll let you know when I get a chance to ride. I don't nessasarily want to change the sag, just wanted to know if anyone knew the relationship between preload and corresponding change in sag. Fred had a good point I could find out by trial and error, just easier if someone knew. BTW I have found that an 8ml increase in oil raises the level in the tubes by about 5mm. I went a low oil level for now (125mm 7wt ) and will add oil with a needle through the bleed screw if I notice harsh or frequent bottoming. Also thanks to Canyncarver for your posts about the springs, they helped in my decision to buy and install them. I'm sure they will be an improvement.
Great! 8ml is good for 5mm? That's good to know. Yeah, it would be good to know the relationship to preload/sag you asked about. That would depend on how fat (or not) the rider was, though!
Uh....a ml is = to a cc, ain't it?
Don't say 'thanks' unless you like 'em. Otherwise it would be useless/erroneous lies. All lies!! ;)
I've got a pair of '98 XR 400 springs (.38, I believe) that will be going in the front of my otherwise-bone-stock '00 KDX 200.
I've read mixed posts stating that correct springs will only make the valving issue worse. I'm 185 lbs without gear. I'm not afraid to add/remove shims from the valve stacks, but I don't want to spend the $$$ right now for a Race Tech Gold Valve. Is there anything I can do with existing hardware to improve the action?
As always, any tips/advice will be greatly appreciated!
Hey C.C., yes a ml = cc . I've been curious about the XR 400 springs in the KDX. Seems like there was a fellow (from down under) who swears by them.
Where they stock XR springs?I just ordered a set of eibach .45kg series 990 fork springs from Factory Connections the other day.The 990 series fits XR250s and KDXs.Mine springs were about a little over a 1/8 shorter than the stockers (the stockers were 17 1/2 inchs long) so get all the right preload I added the 2 thick washers to make up for the length difference and then went to wal-mart and got a set of tow hinch spacers that were 1/2 long and the right diameter and put those in.They are alot stiffer than the stock .40kgs.
Clint, I got a set of Eibach's also, to suit XR400 (not XR250). They were a fair bit longer than the stock KDX spring, which is better because I have all the fork tube taken up with spring, not preload spacers. I think going with a spring that is shorter than stock is possibly the wrong way to go... that said, it's just my opinion, and if you're happy with the way they perform, that's all that matters.