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Message: [QUOTE="rmc_olderthandirt, post: 1386975, member: 68872"] The common tern for this is "clutch drag". If a clutch has been badly overheated the plates will warp and make the clutch drag much worse. If the plates warped enough for you to see it then the clutch probably wouldn't work at all. A very slight warp would require you to place the clutch disk on a known flat surface to establish if it was warped. If you are new to dirt bikes go find someone who has a similar bike and ask to push their bike around when it is cold. This will at least educate you on what a typical clutch drag should be so that you can establish if yours is really worse than others or not. On my bike: I have a hard time starting my bike with it in gear and the clutch pulled in. The bike will idle all day in neutral but if it is in gear with clutch pulled in it will only idle for a few seconds, due to the clutch drag. If I am going to push the bike anywhere I will shift to neutral as pushing it in gear just doesn't work. In fact, many times I will be riding along and decide to stop and take break. Because I am lazy I like to stop at a top of a hill so I can bump the start the bike when I am ready to go again. When it is time to get going I usually have to shift to neutral to allow the bike to roll fast enough to bump start it. Bottom line, your bike could be just fine. If you can be running in neutral, engine idling and shift into first without the engine immediately stalling then it is probably OK. Rod The viscosity of the oil you use is also a factor. I run 5w-20 motor oil. Some people run ATF fluid which is even thinner. [/QUOTE]

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