81' KDX 420 Carb Adjusting After Parts Soak
- Thread starter DoU420?
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- #28
Payment doesn't matter, it's how it was shipped out. By 3rd class mail or whatever. It's still not here. Supposedly left my city on the 13th. It must be floating around town, merrily being delivered whenever...
We have like freezing fog here for the next week, so , i'm not going out to dink around with it anyways. But I bring the pieces and parts in one at a time.
I have a busted throttle tube and will prolly get the aluminum one for 30-40 bux. Then I won't have to worry about it ever again. The ProGrips on it are surprisingly intact. But they're only 10 bux anyways.
I put the plastic seat base in the dish washer and it came out squeaky clean. I have some appliance adhesive that should be great for glueing the foam to it. I'll prolly do that today and order the cover from VMXracing, DCplastics sells their stuff too and adds 10 bux to it.
We have like freezing fog here for the next week, so , i'm not going out to dink around with it anyways. But I bring the pieces and parts in one at a time.
I have a busted throttle tube and will prolly get the aluminum one for 30-40 bux. Then I won't have to worry about it ever again. The ProGrips on it are surprisingly intact. But they're only 10 bux anyways.
I put the plastic seat base in the dish washer and it came out squeaky clean. I have some appliance adhesive that should be great for glueing the foam to it. I'll prolly do that today and order the cover from VMXracing, DCplastics sells their stuff too and adds 10 bux to it.
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- #29
OK, my manual showed up yesterday on the 14th and was shoved in my mailbox. I was looking for it on my porch, so I missed it. It's just what I need! I still might get the Clymer just for chits & giggles, but to tell you the truth, I really wouldn't need it as the OM has all the breakdown specs.
I did find a cool crossbar pad for 2 bux on ebay... Score!
10" Crossbar Pad
Winter sucks when it's 27 degrees and you want to do stuff outside.
I did find a cool crossbar pad for 2 bux on ebay... Score!
10" Crossbar Pad
Winter sucks when it's 27 degrees and you want to do stuff outside.
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- #31
Winter is fine if you don't have chores. I had to put some gear oil in my Toyota. 85w140. My arms are sore from pumping a qt.
I put the reed cage back on with the new gasket they look fine and are sealed up good. Ordered an idle screw and spring for 20 bux. I took the throttle tube to the parts dealer and he was like, "they don't make aftermarket parts like that" Oh goody, how about you order me up the original grip assembly for 35 bux"!?
This thing is gonna nickel and dime me, but it should rip my arms off when i'm done.
I put the reed cage back on with the new gasket they look fine and are sealed up good. Ordered an idle screw and spring for 20 bux. I took the throttle tube to the parts dealer and he was like, "they don't make aftermarket parts like that" Oh goody, how about you order me up the original grip assembly for 35 bux"!?
This thing is gonna nickel and dime me, but it should rip my arms off when i'm done.
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- #32
OK, got the idle screw and spring. It might not be the right carb, but it fits fine and will adjust up the valve like the original. I'll test tomorrow. Seat cover should be here anytime and got the 4 dollar crossbar pad. Things are shaping up well even though it's taking awhile. will clean the tank up and order decals next. I had to get a return spring for the back brake as it was missing. Will drain the oil and put fresh in. Will post update on progress, and maybe some more pics.
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- #34
Yeah, I was going to ask about using a motor flush, like when I change it on my Toyota. There's a 5 -min motor flush which is basically diesel but would the residue thin out the fresh oil?
Also, I'm going through all the basic schematics, (not going through the engine or internal parts) but I look for broken or missing items. I'm coming across a lot of rusted bots that I replace. I'm missing the top engine mount that secures the top of the engine to the top runner of the frame(basically where the gas tank sits down) my skid plate is missing, the rubber insulator that holds the exhaust pipe to the frame up towards my right knee. And of course the entire headlight assembly.
This is not an exhaustive list yet, but when I get into a section to check, that's when I find things put back together in a half-assed fashion. So going to Home Depot(my new motorcycle superstore) every time I find a missing screw bogs down the process.
I did get the seat cover and it looks great. I glued the foam to the base with a loc-tite adhesive that I used to glue my watertight aquariums so it should be fine and i'm letting the cover relax on the seat while it sits on a heater vent to cure the adhesive and get the wrinkles out. Will post pics soon.
Also, I'm going through all the basic schematics, (not going through the engine or internal parts) but I look for broken or missing items. I'm coming across a lot of rusted bots that I replace. I'm missing the top engine mount that secures the top of the engine to the top runner of the frame(basically where the gas tank sits down) my skid plate is missing, the rubber insulator that holds the exhaust pipe to the frame up towards my right knee. And of course the entire headlight assembly.
This is not an exhaustive list yet, but when I get into a section to check, that's when I find things put back together in a half-assed fashion. So going to Home Depot(my new motorcycle superstore) every time I find a missing screw bogs down the process.
I did get the seat cover and it looks great. I glued the foam to the base with a loc-tite adhesive that I used to glue my watertight aquariums so it should be fine and i'm letting the cover relax on the seat while it sits on a heater vent to cure the adhesive and get the wrinkles out. Will post pics soon.
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- #36
OK, we're looking good. Got a new gas tank strap and brake return spring. and threw in some 32:1 mix. After about 10 kicks, Started right up.
Made some adjustments to the air and idle screws so it should low idle. Not sure if I should let it idle or just cut it off so you have to gas it to keep it going. I'll see whichever is better as I see how it rides for the day. I'm thinking i'll just gas it to keep it alive.
Shut it off and starts now on 2nd kick. Excellent compression. Seat looks good bolted down to the frame and just need a few minor cosmetic parts for upkeep. I can ride it full on now and why I wanted to get it gone through before I ride as now I will only fix what gets broken. Only because I'm lazy.
Have the chain taken off and soaking in cleaner, then will wash and oil it up. I'll change the oil in the crankcase after I get it warm from riding around the block and throw some in, then maybe in a month drain and fill again.
Will post pics soon. but mission accomplished!
PS. Almost pulled arms out of socket. Need to stand on handlebars if you want to gas it. I wheelied' in 3rd gear. tires still grabby with half tread. I'm happy! 200 bux well spent with only about 50 on upgrade parts.
Made some adjustments to the air and idle screws so it should low idle. Not sure if I should let it idle or just cut it off so you have to gas it to keep it going. I'll see whichever is better as I see how it rides for the day. I'm thinking i'll just gas it to keep it alive.
Shut it off and starts now on 2nd kick. Excellent compression. Seat looks good bolted down to the frame and just need a few minor cosmetic parts for upkeep. I can ride it full on now and why I wanted to get it gone through before I ride as now I will only fix what gets broken. Only because I'm lazy.
Have the chain taken off and soaking in cleaner, then will wash and oil it up. I'll change the oil in the crankcase after I get it warm from riding around the block and throw some in, then maybe in a month drain and fill again.
Will post pics soon. but mission accomplished!
PS. Almost pulled arms out of socket. Need to stand on handlebars if you want to gas it. I wheelied' in 3rd gear. tires still grabby with half tread. I'm happy! 200 bux well spent with only about 50 on upgrade parts.
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- #38
OK, got the chain back on and oily. Let me glue the grips on and i'll snap some pics. I was looking for that throttle tube. Good news is that the boneyard that closed a while back, will be open some time this month! They have an 80's kdx in the showroom. I might still be able to find my cosmetics pieces in the yard out back.
Next, I'm attempting to put an AX4N automatic transaxle in a 96' Ford Taurus. :nener:
Next, I'm attempting to put an AX4N automatic transaxle in a 96' Ford Taurus. :nener:
- Thread starter
- #42
No prob man. I have come across some issues that need adjustment.
1. the floats need to be adjusted I think, as when I stall out or shut it off, there is so much vacuum that it pours fuel out of my bypass hose all over the ground. Like it's siphoning straight through the tank.
2. My mix of 32:1 is prolly too rich. I rode all morning and as the day wore on, I noticed it was less responsive and was bogging down at the end of the ride. I have to check the plug, but my guess is it is slowly getting fouled out.
Other than that, I have no probs. It's a rocket. I'll try the other jet needle this spring when I get the other issues taken care of. Then, I can see if the thinner needle gives me more response.
1. the floats need to be adjusted I think, as when I stall out or shut it off, there is so much vacuum that it pours fuel out of my bypass hose all over the ground. Like it's siphoning straight through the tank.
2. My mix of 32:1 is prolly too rich. I rode all morning and as the day wore on, I noticed it was less responsive and was bogging down at the end of the ride. I have to check the plug, but my guess is it is slowly getting fouled out.
Other than that, I have no probs. It's a rocket. I'll try the other jet needle this spring when I get the other issues taken care of. Then, I can see if the thinner needle gives me more response.
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- #45
I misspoke. I meant to say that the plug may be fouled out because it was running a bit lean. I would still like to try the synthetic 40:1 just for kicks. I just don't want to run it too rich as it's easier to clean than rebuild.
Next: save paycheck for...
oil, mix, plugs, spare chain(at least the master link), levers for both sides, tire patches, spare tools, first aid kit, etc.
Then I can venture farther away from home. Woohoo.
Next: save paycheck for...
oil, mix, plugs, spare chain(at least the master link), levers for both sides, tire patches, spare tools, first aid kit, etc.
Then I can venture farther away from home. Woohoo.
- Thread starter
- #47
My valve may have seen better days, but I don't see any rubber tip. If you are referring to the pin actuator that the float depresses as it rises, I have two independent paddle floats, not a 1-piece. There is no rubber tip submerged in the float bowl. And even if thats what you're talking about, what would that matter? You just adjust the tang on the float mechanism to compensate for the missing rubber tip. If the tip is inside the mechanism, hell, I'm not going to get into taking apart the internals of the carb, it's prolly rusted shut. Besides, it would pour fuel contantly if that were the case, Mine just dumps the contents of the float bowl on the ground when stalled or stopped.
My jet needle is fairly fat for the opening. It's in the 3rd clip position. When it warms up, it starts getting boggy. I will look at the pipe and see if it is all gummed up. I will also get the oil a little higher on the sight glass as I hear some pinging as you ride down to idle, when it grabs under load you hear a ping-slap. Hard to pinpoint when riding, but sounds like near reed valve.
Other than that, we adjusted the flloat tang and was filling the bowl up 1 third of the way. Won't start. Bent the tang back to where it was before(maybe not quite as far) and now starts when you gas it. 2nd kick. Bowl is 2/3rds full now. But fuel still dribbles out. though, not as much, when you stall it or kill switch it. I can live with that.
Brushed out the spark plug, wasn't as bad as I first thought, prolly within range of soot levels. Just gets boggy now after it's warmed up... sounds like BoooRah! when you gas it. where that Rah is a lower octive. And these bikes are supposed to be responsive on the lower and mid range throttle. Hesitates and sputters more as you run it down a straight-away. I use the 91 octane @ 32:1
My jet needle is fairly fat for the opening. It's in the 3rd clip position. When it warms up, it starts getting boggy. I will look at the pipe and see if it is all gummed up. I will also get the oil a little higher on the sight glass as I hear some pinging as you ride down to idle, when it grabs under load you hear a ping-slap. Hard to pinpoint when riding, but sounds like near reed valve.
Other than that, we adjusted the flloat tang and was filling the bowl up 1 third of the way. Won't start. Bent the tang back to where it was before(maybe not quite as far) and now starts when you gas it. 2nd kick. Bowl is 2/3rds full now. But fuel still dribbles out. though, not as much, when you stall it or kill switch it. I can live with that.
Brushed out the spark plug, wasn't as bad as I first thought, prolly within range of soot levels. Just gets boggy now after it's warmed up... sounds like BoooRah! when you gas it. where that Rah is a lower octive. And these bikes are supposed to be responsive on the lower and mid range throttle. Hesitates and sputters more as you run it down a straight-away. I use the 91 octane @ 32:1
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- #49
OK, we adjusted the tang on the float and now it just dribbles a few drops on the ground when stalled or k-switched. Stopped and running at idle or wind down to a stop and checked... no dribble. So, the fuel leaking problem seems to be solved.
I must tell you that at the same time, we cleaned the pipe out. It was all gummed up. What I think was happening was the blockage of the pipe forced built up pressure back through the engine and reeds, through the carb to empty the contents of the reservoir bowl through the overflow hose onto the ground.
Also curious was the fact that I have a super trapp. The front portion of my exhaust is beat to hell so it must be original, but the back portion, the spark arrester welded on and packed with insulation. I didn't know that stock pipes from the 80's needed packing.
In any case, i'm getting to know the sound it makes when it runs good. That will be my guide when it gets throaty.
So, now it runs like a champ and i've been starting it on 1st kick cold. I think there was only 1200 miles on this bike in 30 years, 200 bucks and another hundred for misc parts. :nener:
I must tell you that at the same time, we cleaned the pipe out. It was all gummed up. What I think was happening was the blockage of the pipe forced built up pressure back through the engine and reeds, through the carb to empty the contents of the reservoir bowl through the overflow hose onto the ground.
Also curious was the fact that I have a super trapp. The front portion of my exhaust is beat to hell so it must be original, but the back portion, the spark arrester welded on and packed with insulation. I didn't know that stock pipes from the 80's needed packing.
In any case, i'm getting to know the sound it makes when it runs good. That will be my guide when it gets throaty.
So, now it runs like a champ and i've been starting it on 1st kick cold. I think there was only 1200 miles on this bike in 30 years, 200 bucks and another hundred for misc parts. :nener:
