Bottom End Rebuild Cost?

[WildBill]

I just found out last night that in addition to main bearing seals, I need main bearings (kinda figured), and a new con rod & bearing. Parts and labor will run me $560 out the door. :ohmy: Does this sound reasonable? On the plus side, they said that the top end I did last spring looked great.

Just curious to see what you all think. I recall that Marsh paid $1100 Canadian for a heck of a lot of work on his motor not too long ago so I figure I'm close if just a little high.

Thanks,

 

[levert]

Sounds right.
The thing to watch is the labour.I took the motor out and the top end off and got away with 2 hrs labour.Other places were charging up to 8 hrs labour at $70/hr.
Make sure the place has the proper tools , presses to do the job, assemblying the bottom end wrong is not good.

My Ktm went 6yrs hard use, the lower connecting rod bearings were definetely on the way out,I am happy and really think running 40:1 good oil plays an important part.

 

[rethnal]

Send it to Eric Gorr... I guarantee he has the right equipment and I think labor is like $160 plus parts. A great deal from a knowledgeable man!

 

[levert]

Eric did work for a friend up here in Toronto.
It was flawless and the price was very fair, can't go wrong with him.

 

[WildBill]

Thanks, guys. EG would have been a good choice, but I was hesitant to ship my motor out because of the hassle and weight. I did pull the motor out of the bike, but I left it intact, sans carb. They gave the top end a once over and said it was in great shape and I should have it back early next week. I trust the shop as it is a friend of a friend deal. I was hoping to get away with main bearings and seals only and the con rod was a little bit of a shock.

Thanks again for the replies.

 

[dirt bike dave]

The price you were quoted seems reasonable to me. It's good to support the local guys, save shipping costs and get a quick turn-around time.

If they are putting on a new rod and rod bearing, it might be worthwhile to just put in a new crankshaft assembly. Not sure about Kawasaki, but on some bikes (Hondas for example) the crank assembly is very reasonably priced.

Replacing the crank is more $ in parts but less in labor, and you get a new crank that was assembled by Kawasaki.

 

[Duneman]

Split the cases your self, I have done it several times it's not that hard, get a clymer manual if you need one, take the crank out and to a machine shop and have them press it apart put your new rod bearings on give it back to them and tell them to press it back together, some automotive shops have a machine press, that's abou $80 bucks for them pressing it, get your new case gaskets and putting in your main seal & bearings back in are a snape, most all the gears are easy to keep together, bike bandit has exploded views of diff trannys, and you will see what goes where, but you won't even need that. I learned how on an old engine cause I was scared to do it to mine, but after I did it just once I was no longer afraid and have done it many times since. don't be afraid.

 

[rethnal]

Maybe you can pop over to MI to show him how easy it is! :laugh:
Really, how many cases do you think one man would have to split in one lifetime if you didn't do it for a living? 1... maybe 2? Just pay someone to do it.... that way if it's wrong...they get to do it again... not you!

 

[Marsh]

WildBill. Once you're into the bottom end, get 'er all done! Mains, seals, and get the bottom bearing in the rod checked. Now as for the crank. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!! They are $300 and change CAN. This part shouldn't wear. Once it is balaced and both halves are in phase, she's good to go. If it's toast then there are other problems down there.

Splitting the case is no big deal but I recommend letting the shop give it back to you all sealed up. Not only is the onus put on them this way, but also the crank can be knocked out of phase if 'wedges' are not used. I'm not up on how the wedges work but know from experience that it makes a difference.

Good luck and enjoy riding a bike you can feel at ease riding knowing it was done right, and completely. :thumb:

Marsh.

 

[WildBill]

Thanks for all the tips. With not having all the proper tools and having a shop I can trust, I figured that I would put it on them to do it right. If I had got off my butt I could have had it done this past winter. It's time to ride here in MI, so I just want to "get 'er done" and back in the bike. My buddy already has 4 rides in this year! Happy trails!

 

[dirt bike dave]

Now as for the crank. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!! They are $300 and change CAN. This part shouldn't wear. Once it is balaced and both halves are in phase, she's good to go.

If you buy an assembled crankshaft assembly, you will not have to buy a rod and rod bearing, and you will not have to pay someone to split, re-assemble and balance the crank.

It may not be worth doing on a 14 year old bike, but while you are in there anyways, I would definitely look into it. When I rebuilt my Honda bottom end, a new crank assembly was only $160 US. The difference in parts prices over a rod/bearing was approx. $90, but then I would have had to find someone to split my old crank, etc... Assuming that cost at $50 + my time driving to another shop, the total additional cost for a new crankshaft was less than $40. On a Kawi, the difference may be greater.

BTW, on many MX bikes, the service manuals recommend replacing the crankshaft every season.