brand spankin new 04 kdx220r, suggestions

[mudpuddle]

hello from the newbe, I have sitting in my garage a brand new kdx220r with zero miles and here is my question. If I were to do just one modification to this bike what should I do for the most bang for the buck? :yeehaw:

 

[nickyd]

add a rider??? ha...just kidding. SUSPENSION...in my mind, always always get the suspension set...if that means revalve, so be it. you can add pipe, silencer, jetting, etc...but if the suspension is not set up you are going to get kicked all over the place.

 

[hog]

I agree on Suspension first. I did the engine stuff ( pipe etc) first and the suspension stuff second. That was a mistake. Get springs for your weight and valves for your riding style. You won't be sorry.

 

[John Harris]

At a very minimum if you weigh over 125 lbs. put in the XR fork springs. Lots of information on these archives on how to do it. Will cost you between $50 and $75 and you will save that not having to make that er visit. Ask me or several on here that know! Then the further suspension adjustments you can make will further improve your happiness. Ride Safe John

 

[john_bilbrey]

Agreed. The bike will run faster than most can ride it in stock (engine) form with correct suspension (springs and/or valves). Aside from that, the free stuff should be done when the opportunity arrives (air box lid and jetting).

 

[Radiator Ron]

The best bagn for the buck is a tube of grease and completely grease the whole bike before you ride.

 

[css_elfers]

Get the pipe. My 05 runs great and I just did the xr400 springs and dialed it in. The FMF pipe I think is the best bang for the buck. Ya the suspension isnt the best but its soft. why? Because its a woods bike not a motox. Its sucks up more of the little stuff, not the big stuff. Just my 2 cents.

ELF

 

[MY KDX 220 R]

Elf, I have the 220r '05 aswell, I weigh about 200lbs, has only 6 hrs. Have not ridden for a while,yes see archives, but a quick pointer to the suspension would be great. Engine mod's will wait till I have better feel of the bike.

 

[Tom L]

I'm 200lbs. and I love the soft suspension and seat!!! After greasing it up, I would spend $50 on some decent reeds!!! Then go for the rev pipe!!!

 

[john_bilbrey]

Yes, I forgot about the grease. Mine had very little on the steering stem and all of the ones in the swingarm/linkage were practically dry. You don't want to go replacing those after 6 months...they are quite expensive.
You will hear both sides on the pipe- the Gnarly Desert (rev) or woods (torque). Both have an equal following, I went with the Desert. Opened the top end up a ton, with no loss down low. Carb mods are equally popular, most will say that it helps more than the pipe...

 

[MY KDX 220 R]

I'm hoping to do thre rev' pipe and the carb mod's, just need to get more time on the bike.

As far as grease for the steering stem and swingarm linkage, would this be the molibdinum...dinum..? grease?

 

[seancza]

The best bagn for the buck is a tube of grease and completely grease the whole bike before you ride.

this just sounds funny to me

should you grease the "whole" bike, including the seat and grips :rotfl:

 

[tpstwf]

I have been on a one that was all stock, one that had all the performance mods and stock suspension and one with all the performance mods and suspension mods. IMHO the suspension mods are a must and everything else is just fun factor. The stock suspension is out of balance if you are a big guy the front needs resprung at the least and a good set of valves wouldn't hurt if you are a average or small sized guy then the shock need resprung. Being able to control what you have will make you a faster rider. For performance mods the pipe and silencer are no doubt first. If you haven't already found the Fredette site then you need to check out KDXposed on frpoffroad site.

 

[john_bilbrey]

Any grease should work. I bought a tub at the local shop (I think it was Maxima or something). The tub should last several motorcycles' worth.

 

[bikepilot]

I would grease it and spend your $$$ on keeping riding and keeping new tires on it. Jet it properly. I weighed 155lbs when I was racing my 1996KDX200 (virtually identical suspension etc as your bike) and I won several HS races on it bone stock (save jetting). I also have cleared every jump at Budds Creek MX track on it bone stock save the big gulp (no way it would get up enough speed to clear it..thats what my KX250 was for). In otherwords its a very capable bike in stock form, and at least initially, you are probably better off getting to know it better before you start making modifications. Of course if you are exceptionally heavy or light suspension work might be required to get it in the ball park, but for me the stock suspension was excelent.

good luck and enjoy the bike:)

 

[Kwakasaki]

Leave it alone until the warranty runs out, then add everything you can! :yeehaw:
You picked a fine ride :ride:

 

[Tom Cox]

Hi, I've got a 2001 and 2004 KDX 220. Everyones right, if you buy a new bike take it apart and grease everything. I don't care what brand. This is one item all the manufacturers skimp on.
Then get the stiffer fork springs. The rear shock spring should be fine unless you're a real big boy. Unless you're a "B" or "A" level rider don't bother with revalving. Just turn the clickers and make sure you have the sag set right.
Next, get the right set of bars that fit YOU, so you don't get blisters on your palms or rub the skin off your thumb or knuckle. Get a set of Bark Busters to keep your fingers in the shape they started in. Install a grease zerk to grease the fork stem bearings and the rear brake lever pivot. Take a correct size bolt and drill a hole the length of it and then install a grease zerk in the head end. You're going to use this to grease the Kick Start Lever pivot by taking out the set screw and screwing this in. The Kick Start Lever and Rear Brake pivot points will wear out in a season unless you do this and grease them regularly.
When ready add your favorite pipe and muffler. This depends on your type of riding and skill level. If you want to go for a carb mod upgrade, it does work but avoid the head modifications unless you're going to do some serious racing. If you do a head mod with higher compression, don't take off the air directional vanes from the radiators and put on guards, because the bike will over heat really bad. The cooling system can't handle the extra heat without the air directional vanes.
If you find the lower shock mount bearing wearing out really often, contact me and I'll tell you how to fix that. It's a poor design by Kawasaki that they've carried over for more than 10 years.

 

[kmccune]

Throw the air box lid away, grease the linkage and steering head, set sag/adjust klickers maybe raise or lower forks and jet it... total cost maybe 15-20 bucks for jets.Ride it awhile and see what you think needs help.Later new fork springs then RB carb, then pipe then porting then Race Tech suspension, then buy an '05 and start over..... my $.02

 

[KdxChode]

Pipe!

 

[DirtRoller]

Now that you got the beta... Ride it like you stole it, and the cops chasing you are on KTM 300exc's.
Just head for the woods, they'll never catch you. :laugh: :p
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