clutch too stiff
- Thread starter girlbiker
- Start date
kciH
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 28, 2002
- 225
- 0
What kind of bike are you riding? Aftermarket manufacturer's make "e-z pull" clutch perches for motorcycles with conventional "perch and cable" clutch systems. If you're riding a bike that has a hydraulic cluch (KTM, Husaberg, Husqvarna thumpers, and others I don't know about), you can replace the mineral oil in some of the clutches with 5W suspension oil to reduce the pull. I have a Magura system on my bike, it's OK, but the clutch pull actually seemed nearly as heavy on my 426 as the cable system. When I switched to the lighter oil in the system, it seemed to help it feel lighter. I know the Magura system will work with the 5W, but I don't know about other systems. The magura is OEM equipment on the KTM's and Husaberg's.
What part of Oz are you in? I spent 6 months there, and loved it.
What part of Oz are you in? I spent 6 months there, and loved it.
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
- 0
The kdx clutch is almost puny by measure against a LOT of other bikes. Bushed levers, different leverage angles (replacing the perch and lever) will help some. If yours is 'hard' then I'd think something is wrong. Crud in the cable? Have you ever cleaned/lubricated the cable? That's the simple possibility. Actuator binding where it fits thru the case or a damaged clutch basket are other more complicated possibilities.
What do you use the clutch for anyway? Certainly not for shifting, right? Use it when coming to a complete stop while in gear, and fan it when you get it trouble on a hill. Other than that, forget about it!
What do you use the clutch for anyway? Certainly not for shifting, right? Use it when coming to a complete stop while in gear, and fan it when you get it trouble on a hill. Other than that, forget about it!
I know many will disagree but the way I ride my 200 through the woods is I clutch the crud out of it like a 125. It's the fastest way for me and the most fun. I will agree with the next post which will be somebody telling me how you can go faster for longer with a smoother riding style. Maybe, but before you pass me I will cover you in roost in at least one corner riding my way and that's a victory for me.
I bought a "cable lube tool" available at any good bike shop.
A must.
After each power wash after a ride I lube it with wd40.
Once a month I use good old chain lube down the cable.
There's probably better lube available but wd40 and chain lube works for me.
My KDX lives on Anti seize grease down to every bolt.
It is a dream to pull it apart,no stuckcorroded bolts nuts.
A must.
After each power wash after a ride I lube it with wd40.
Once a month I use good old chain lube down the cable.
There's probably better lube available but wd40 and chain lube works for me.
My KDX lives on Anti seize grease down to every bolt.
It is a dream to pull it apart,no stuckcorroded bolts nuts.
Last edited:
David Trustrum
~SPONSOR~
- Jan 25, 2001
- 1,396
- 0
The various aftermarket cables like terminator (motion pro I think) or some other silly name work real well due to their construction as they don’t tend to act like a spring. Cheaper aftermarket ones aren’t so good.
Yes you could increase your leverage with an expensive lever assembly.
But the cheap way of doing exactly the same thing on the other end is lengthen the actuator arm. I put an extra 8-10mm in my kdx arm which helped a lot & actually improved the angle of the cable.
Cost; an offcut & a 10 min welding job.
Note this was on a 91 so you will have to check the newer model has the space.
I use CRC cable & wire lube & find it nice to lube before every ride with a cable-luber as described. I use antiseize grease on the perch pivot & the cable end nipple.
Also adjust your levers so that they are as far in as possible so you are pulling the ends of the levers for more leverage. This may be a problem with elven size fingers. You can add a bit of weld to the lever or a bolt adjuster (most trials bikes have an adjuster for this purpose) into the perch to reduce the distance the lever is away from your hand. This has to be carefully juggled to ensure the clutch fully engages with the reduced lever pull but often this is possible to achieve the desired result.
Yes you could increase your leverage with an expensive lever assembly.
But the cheap way of doing exactly the same thing on the other end is lengthen the actuator arm. I put an extra 8-10mm in my kdx arm which helped a lot & actually improved the angle of the cable.
Cost; an offcut & a 10 min welding job.
Note this was on a 91 so you will have to check the newer model has the space.
I use CRC cable & wire lube & find it nice to lube before every ride with a cable-luber as described. I use antiseize grease on the perch pivot & the cable end nipple.
Also adjust your levers so that they are as far in as possible so you are pulling the ends of the levers for more leverage. This may be a problem with elven size fingers. You can add a bit of weld to the lever or a bolt adjuster (most trials bikes have an adjuster for this purpose) into the perch to reduce the distance the lever is away from your hand. This has to be carefully juggled to ensure the clutch fully engages with the reduced lever pull but often this is possible to achieve the desired result.
I got a Moose bearing lever and perch from Sage and it pulls like a cream puff. Check him out at: http://www.sagesdirtandstreet.com/index.htm
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
- 0
re: lengthen the actuator arm?
Easier pull, but less travel. That wasn't a problem?
The actuator arm may be galled on the INside of the case.....or incorrectly aligned. There are shims used in the assy to properly orient the shaft to the rod.
But, yeah....lube it first. See if that doesn't fix the whole problem.
Easier pull, but less travel. That wasn't a problem?
The actuator arm may be galled on the INside of the case.....or incorrectly aligned. There are shims used in the assy to properly orient the shaft to the rod.
But, yeah....lube it first. See if that doesn't fix the whole problem.
Since there is not a near by Kawasaki dealer, we have the Honda dealer in town. We swap the levers over to the CR perch and levers. Or just grind the lever thinner to fit in the CR perch. The CR perch has a better leverage/pull on it then stock and will lighten things up. Cheap, easy solution.
Cactus Jim
Member
- Apr 1, 2002
- 94
- 0
I lubricate the cable frequently (about every other ride) and this seems to help. I also do it the easy way, without removing. Just turn bar to right, put slot to top and I use 3-in-1 oil, working it down in. I know it's getting through when I see it coming out the bottom. There's also special levers available with several cable connections, changing the leverage.
Good Luck......
Good Luck......
David Trustrum
~SPONSOR~
- Jan 25, 2001
- 1,396
- 0
Canyn, re actuator am: Anything increasing leverage, no matter whether at the handlebar or engine lever is making this tradeoff. Fortunately there is enough freeplay that this is no prob -at least on the earlier models, can’t comment on latter ones.
Reducing lever travel for smaller hands will make this closer still but may be worth a shot, accurate adjustment would be required.
Reducing lever travel for smaller hands will make this closer still but may be worth a shot, accurate adjustment would be required.
