hi please could any one tell me if it is posible to remove the crankshaft on a yz80 1996 model with out the special puller tool or is there a cheap make of tool that will do it or any little tips or other ideas , i do know i need the corect tool but money and time ordering in england is a bit of a problem right now , thanks for any help
crank shaft tool help
- Thread starter war child
- Start date
Are you talking about removing the flywheel from the crank ?
It's almost imposible to do it without damaging the crank if you don't have the tool. Just a thaught, see if your local dealer can pop it off for you. There may be a small cost for them to do it, but i'm sure it will be cheaper than the tool.
It's almost imposible to do it without damaging the crank if you don't have the tool. Just a thaught, see if your local dealer can pop it off for you. There may be a small cost for them to do it, but i'm sure it will be cheaper than the tool.
- Thread starter
- #4
hi thanks for the info both of you ,i had already done what sharky said i went to my local motor bike shop and got them to pull it, ive got the fly wheel off and exposed the magnito and stators, but its when im about to rebuild the bottom end crank and bearings, ive watched the video on you tube and its when i need a tool to pull the engine case in half and pull the crank out, thy use a tool to press and pull
Sorry War Child, I did not recieve your message. Make sure you have my E-mail address correct. Make sure you used 2 underscores. A little trick I use when splitting cases is, use a heat gun to heat the inner races of the main crank brearings. The crank will slide out easier. Physics are your best friend with this task. When re-installing the crank, put the crank and the bearings in the freezer overnight. Warm up the case halves again with a heat gun, The bearings will go into the cases easier. Warm the inner races with the heat gun, and slide the frozen crank into them.
- Thread starter
- #7
hi sharky , i get a little confused i understand what you mean about putting the engine back together, the bit im realy stuck about is when i want to separate the two halves, lets say i have undone all screws and its ready to split, but there is a crank inside holding on for dear life how do i get the engine halves to slide on the crank shaft, do i heat up the engine block around were the crank is sticking throught and pull, how do i pull with just my hands, understanding heat with the blow tourch is ok for me im a plumber and i understand the frozen bearings its just spliting the case, thanks again
- Dec 26, 1999
- 19,774
- 0
Considering how expensive if they are even available the cases are you really might be better off finding somebody with the tools to do the job correctly. A local machine shop might be a good inexpensive start. Most of the cost on a rebuild outside of parts is the labor of an experienced builder, finding somebody to split the cases is a pretty minor effort on the whole so it shouldn't be too bad.
- Thread starter
- #9
yeah pat man that is good advice, common sense realy , i supose its the cost even thought just getting them split shouldnt be to bad, the cost in terms of that i want to learn so i can keep doing the work in the future as opose to just keep paying to get it done and the feeling of getting my little brothers bike working and keeping it maintained would be great, i love learning this stuff, aslong as i dont make it worse then i just cant cope
They make small pullers for cars that can be modified to separate the cases. A plate of metal and some parts, you could fabricate a nice universal one. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/view/crankcase_splitter/, http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n246/quaddad1958/100_1965.jpg
Don't use a torch !!!!! You can't control the heat well enough with a flame. Its better and safer with an electric heat gun. If you do plan to do this job yourself, and you are going to use physics, you need to remove both crank seals and concentrate the heat on the inner race of the main crank bearings. This will expand the bearing race enough that you can gently tap the case halves apart with a soft mallet. I agree with Patman though, it maybe wise just to have the bottom end done at a shop if you are unsure. You can still save yourself some money by stripping the engine down yourself, far enough for the shop to split the cases.
With a splitter and dead blow to drive the counter shaft, keep the case coming apart even. You can do it pretty easy. Make sure the bolts are seated well in the cases, no couple of threads will hold. Of course expanding and contracting the correct areas will make it easier, but not essential. Ideally the crank will slide out of the main bearing, and remain in the other. Remove the crank with the same separator. Separate slowly, try and keep the gears in the right case halve, and watch for washers stuck by oil to bearings. They should only fit one way. Any internet parts micro fiche will show you the dimensions and placements of every part. NO BIG DEAL! The heat and cold make removing bearings and seals easier, once again, not mandatory. Keep the new bearings and seal square with the opening. And that they are properly seated.
- Thread starter
- #13
thanks guys, the price of them splitters is way to much at the moment, the ideal option is to take the case to a shop and get it split, but i would love to be able to split them myself, but it does sound tricky, there are a lot of people that split the case them self, and i would of thaught that they dont all spend 100 pounds on a case splitter, i think that im gona try and split them with a heat gun and tap the crank bar back into the case forcing the outher side out and away(splitting), i mean we all talk about damiging the crank but it must be pretty hard to bend a solid steel shaft (shouldent it???????) oh im not sure what to do , i understand that i should take it to the shop to get it split but the local shop arnt very helpfull its a big posh set up and ive just got them to pull the flywheel, there gona be like we nearly did it all anyway,
my head hurts
my head hurts
- Dec 26, 1999
- 19,774
- 0
Not everyone has the special tools but they either know somebody that does or if no tools they know somebody that knows how to do it properly without the special tools. Like most anything once you have done it then it's no big deal, unless you have done it wrong. Splitting the cases for the first time solo will either make you brave or stupid and it's a fine line between the two the first time. Good luck, I hope you turn out brave.
Just incase it comes down to it, no J-B Weld won't and yes you might be able to get it TIG welded.
Just incase it comes down to it, no J-B Weld won't and yes you might be able to get it TIG welded.
War Child, It's not so much "bending" the crank to worry about. You can damage the crank ends and then the nuts, and gears won't fit anymore. You can also knock the crank out of true. This is more of a concern with re-assemby. The biggest risk is breaking the cases. Just take your time, be aware of the shim washers on the transmission shafts, and small springs and pins on the shifter assy. Be sure to use a SOFT MALLET and not a hammer.
- Thread starter
- #16
hi also when the case has been split should i clean all parts , like you do with a carb, or should i jst give a visual check , look at everything, and just do the crank bearing and seals,also when i have split it should i oil things a little bit when i put them back in with a bit of the oil i mix with the petrol,2 stroke oil..if you guys were doing it what would you look for apart from the main bearings and crank,,, also how do i know if the crank is ok to put back in,,, alot of questions sorry , but i do feel like i am learning loads , your help realy helping
Even where you live, that harmonic balance puller for a car should be cheap. The one from motion pro is nice! The idea is by bolting a floating plate, then using the large center bolt to push the cases apart. The same method pushes the crank out of the other halve. http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/pullers_specialized/harmonic_balancer.htm
- Thread starter
- #21
hi guys were on the right track now do you think this will work, link----
http://www.toolspot.co.uk/product/13pc-harmonic-balance-puller?source=froogle
http://www.toolspot.co.uk/product/13pc-harmonic-balance-puller?source=froogle
That is it.
- Thread starter
- #23
ok then ive just orderd it lets see what i can do with it, also with all this messing around with my brothers bike i had a look round for a brocken one i could do up myself and im going to look at a cr250 1996 model tommorow, all i know is it wont start my guess from what you guys have taught me, could be , reed valve , dirty carb , magnito , or bottom end , if it is the bottom end , maybe crank and bearings , or could be a piston , but hopfully i can learn more and make myself a sweet bike,
As long as the rest of the engine is okay, 300 to 400 dollars gets you a fresh engine. They sell complete engine kits cheaper than buying it separate. http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/p...Engine+Parts+and+Accessories^subCategoryID~75
