Floating Ground Issue...

[theckeler]

So I find out that the previous owner of my 95 KDX200 put in a floating ground for the electrical... he had the dual stuff on there (the wiring not the signals and such, and it was all junk). Anyhow my lights dim and brighten as I throttle since I'm guessing it's not on the voltage regulator. Anyway of fixing this beyond getting a new stator?

 

[dirt bike dave]

Put in a lower wattage headlight bulb and it won't be as noticeable, but then you won't have as much light at high rpm, either.

If he had a dual sport kit, it might have a 55w bulb in there.

In theory, a floating ground is more efficient. It's kind of a band-aid attempt to address the fact that the lighting system is not making enough power.

 

[theckeler]

There is a 35 in there now, it's in a new headlight... it didn't come with one so I got an Acerbis. I remove an old battery that wasn't hooked up and leaking, and some other junk... well damn ha... oh well already figured I had to get a replacement stator. Is there any way to remove the floating ground and put it back the way it's sup'd to be? I'm not very good with electric stuff.

 

[theckeler]

Is there also anyway to add another regulator to the system to straighten it out?

 

[sr5bidder]

the regulator is located under the seat and Parts Unlimited has one for around 12 bucks
it very simple wiring but not simple to explain..

I have an ols kdx headlight on my 98kdx and it has no problem with either the 35w low beam or the 35w high beam and a L.E.D tail marker.. so I doubt you need mess with the stator..

 

[theckeler]

Ya got a regulator, the one that is standard on the KDX, but since it's a floating ground it doesn't run though that. Not sure exactly how to add one, or remove the floating ground, or ???

 

[dirt bike dave]

I think you are best off removing the floating ground and restoring your lighting system wiring to stock, using your stock regulator.

See if you can find a schematic - it's very simple on the KDX.

 

[theckeler]

I think you are best off removing the floating ground and restoring your lighting system wiring to stock, using your stock regulator.

See if you can find a schematic - it's very simple on the KDX.

Thanks, I have a manual with a schematic... guessing that the ground is just attached to the stator in some fashion and it's as simple as removing it? Not very good at electrical, thanks for your help.

 

[theckeler]

Ok found the instructions on how to put in the baja designs dual sport kit (which is what was on there but not even close to good) for the KDX and found this:
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7. The stock stator on the KDX is good for about 40 watts of lighting output. This is not enough to run the full street lighting system. The stator will have to be rewound and the ground floated for the kit to work properly. If you have not already done so, remove the stator plate by removing the shifter, left mag cover, flywheel, and the two screws which secure the stator plate. Make note of the timing marks on the stator plate and how they are referenced to the timing index on the case so that you can reinstall the stator plate in the same position. You will need a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel.
Once the stator has been rewound, reinstall and run its wiring back up to the front right corner of the airbox.
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Does this mean I need to rewind the stator? Just not sure how to undo this mess.

 

[sr5bidder]

do you think the po messed with the stator??

 

[theckeler]

Not sure but it looks like it used to have the baja dual kit... according to these directions you need to run a floating ground, which he did... and you need to rewound it? Not sure exactly what that means but figure that the lighting coil has been messed with in some way. Just not sure how to get it back to normal.

 

[ws6transam]

Floating ground just means that BOTH ENDS of the coil get routed to the Trailtech voltage regulator. As one end swings positive, the other end swings negative, adn vice versa.

In a chassis ground system, one end of the coil is attached to the stator plate and uses the chassis as the return wire. When you make a floating ground, you cut off the grounding ring from the coil lead and hook it to a wire that is then run up the harness in parallel with the other wire so that both get hooked to separate inputs to the regulator. If you were to remove the trailtech regulator and put in the stock regulator, you would need to disconnect the extra wire and restore the grounding ring. No rewinding necessary! You'll just have a 65W coil that can now make more power than the original coil. It's a possibility that you could burn the stock regulator out with excess current but I seriously doubt it.

BTW, I just did my own dualsport conversion and it's working great. I also had to "float my ground". One thing you must do is this: If you do not have a battery on-board, you need to add some kind of capacitor across the regulator output. A nice, big electrolytic capacitor with a 25V tolerance. That capacitor will smooth out the ripple from the regulator and calm the lighting kit.

My wiring diagram:
http://www.ws6transam.org/WR500_lights.jpg

 

[theckeler]

Thanks, sort of making sense... I would add a kit but just don't have the cash to drop so I wanted to restore it back the way it was... I thought I had it but noticed that the lights dimmed and brightened with I hit the throttle so figured that ground had to go. I currently have the stock reg in there, should I disconnect the Yellow till I get this resolved?