Kick Start Lever Replacement

[Houndog]

1995 KDX200

I broke my kickstart lever today, not too much fun getting a push start everytime you stop :)

I think there are at least a few replacement options:
1) oem KDX 
2) oem KX (I think i saw this mod somewhere) 
3) Fredette lever

What would be the best (most rugged) replacement? I live in Canada and time will be a factor if I want to ride next weekend, thanks for your help!

 

[Jackpiner57]

Can it be welded?

 

[BIGFOOT16]

You're SOL! I think the Fredette lever is a bit weak for my liking,and the stock is the next worse.I'm on my third lever,on a 2001,220.I have never had to replace a lever on any of my previous bikes.Maybe it's my big feet!!

 

[Houndog]

It might be welded but it's cast aluminum and not very good metal to start with.

I found this link on CD's site, looks like I might need a lever from an '89 KX 125.
http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/kickstart.html

 

[dixie]

Hay Houndog, Go to motorcycle stuff Catalog-or-dealer look up the kdx-175 leaver it is very cheap only 12.00 dallors, you only use the leaver not the botton spline the pinch bolt will hit clucth cover I've been using it for about a year now no problems its a little shorter and tucks in a little tighter to. When I get some film I'll try to seed you the pic on the fork-brace & rear disc, Been buisy racing NCHSA . Havent been on forum latey. At least this gives you another opption.

 

[fatty_k]

I don't think the KDX lever is aluminum and if it is, it must be filled with lead, because it is heavy! My friend welded his kicker just fine.

 

[canyncarvr]

If you can replace an oem kicker on the same knuckle that you wore out the kicker ON I'd say you're lucky.......or missing something.

Putting a nice shiny new lever on a worn out knuckle is a waste of time (and $$).

My frp lever (on a new knuckle) works fine. Be sure to read the errata sheet that comes with it. If you don't get one with the kicker, don't put the lever on until you do.

The frp lever has been redesigned from the its original casting. If bigfoot is on his 3rd lever, maybe he's had the oem (junk) an original frp (known weak) and a new frp (still working)?

 

[Houndog]

I might have been unclear as to what broke. The lever broke at the base where it is attached to the knuckle, the knuckle itself (and what was left of the lever base) is fine.

http://www.kbrl.com/images/kdx/kickstart.jpg

The lever from the '89 KX125 looks like a decent option now, after seeing the article on CD's site it looks like it will be a better design and will not stress the base of the lever like my OEM lever did.

Canyncarvr did you purchase your new knuckle seperately, and from where? The Fredette lever looks good too, but the exchange, duty, shipping is a pain... but sometimes worth it.

Thanks for your comments guys, the only thing I am sure of is that the next lever will not be OEM KDX.

 

[Speedy]

Dang!! I dont know how you could break 1 let alone 3!!! You must be kicking it like a 4 stroke and banging the kicker off the footpeg or something. Its a 2 stroke and you dont need alot of a$$ on it to start it. Geez my bikes start up before i get half way thru the travel. But who knows my bikes run great. Thanx to many on here.

 

[Houndog]

I talked to Jeff at FRP this morning and decided to buy the FRP lever and knuckle, I will update when I recieve the parts.

 

[canyncarvr]

Houndog: Knuckle from the local kawi dealer. Lever from frp. o-rings also from local dealer. The frp lever is a snug fit! 'Snug' meaning, have fun getting the orings on!

I'm surprised a kx lever is $12 as per dixie. I checked on the correct year kx lever from a local dealer......it was more than the frp lever.

If you can get the kx for that price, and your knuckle is fine, that sounds the better choice.

The spring that holds the detent ball against the lever is junk. Closer to solder in properties than spring, it's probably useless.

The retainer clip isn't too good, either. I could reuse mine once before it lost its spring tension. Yes, I did use the proper pliers and did NOT open it more than required to get it over the knuckle shaft. Still, it was 'sprung' after a single take-off.

A couple more things to keep in mind. Don't want to lose your brand new kicker cuz the phony clip fell off somewheres.............

Good luck!

 

[Houndog]

The KX lever (and knuckle) was going to be $106 cdn and that left me with my old knuckle ($47 cdn for a new knuckle). Jeff also sells the knuckles so I ordered everything from him, now I just have to wait :)

I might try welding my old lever, but it would only be a temporary solution until the new parts arrive... it would be hard to trust it in the woods.

Thanks for your advice canyncarvr, I think I made the right decision going FRP.

 

 

[BIGFOOT16]

I don't break my levers,they bend back.I can still use them,but tend to be a bit anal,and order new.I did have the old style FRP lever,so maybe the new style is better.And yes,I did kick it over like a four stroke.My last bike was a Suzuki DR350.I'm learning.

 

[RodC]

dixie
could you be more specific about where you found the lever for $12.00. I priced one at $89.00!!

 

[fuzzy]

You must be kicking it like a 4 stroke and banging the kicker off the footpeg or something

Who cares? If the kicker hits the peg it's probably saving knuckle-joint.

I don't break my levers,they bend back

This seems to be typical from what I've seen. A buddies 220 is 'bent back' about 45 deg! Have to start it 'euro style' :P Anyway as long as you're not snapping the kicker in half I thing welding is probably going to be the best solution. The problem is that the knucle/kicker are made out of some pretty crappy steel. Over (little) time this crappy steel wears at the mating point. I'm going to grind the mating faces off of his kicker AND knuckle with refill with some some HARD rod, then grind back to factory size. Refacing these surfaces w/ good steel should be a permanent fix....Will report back. As mentioned before I've never seen another bike with this problem due to the fact that others use decent steel for the kicker/knuckle, or HARD aluminum. Kawi seems to like to make theirs out of recycled cans of Spam left by our soldiers. BTW, I've not seen this problem occur on 89-94's...They must have used some decent steel. Now the ratchet internals on the other hand.....

 

[wibby]

The lever on my '92 is bent back, but it does not bother me when I'm wearing my riding boots. But it sure does when I'm just wearing street shoes, Ouch! :whiner:

Ronayers.com has the whole kicker assembly for my '92 for $52 plus shipping!

 

[canyncarvr]

So...you're sayin' there's something wrong with spam?

Huh?

Besides which, I would've been more'n glad to trade my c-rats for a can of spam!!

;)

 

[Houndog]

I ordered the kickstart lever, knuckle and assorted parts from FRP last Tuesday, parts were in yesterday which is incredible because they had to cross the border. I got charged an extra $67.58CDN for brokerage charges from UPS, I need to call UPS to question the charge but the service from FRP was great!

The difference from the OEM and FRP kickstarter are night and day, the FRP is shorter, lighter, wider at the base and obviously stronger.  When I installed the FRP shifter it cleared the exhaust fine but was hitting the weld on the underside of the frame. I figured I would file a little off of the kickstarter but then decided to take my air grinder and remove the section of weld that was interfering, a bit of paint and a couple of minutes later I was ready to try it. It works great, a bit shorter and closer to the bike but very sturdy.

I also ordered a tourque ring that I installed last night as well, I will update on that after I exercise the bike (tonight if the weather holds).

 

[wibby]

With the FRP lever is there plenty of room for your foot to clear the foot peg?

Reason I ask is the CR125 I road Sunday has the tiniest kick lever, it's about 5-6 inches long. The only way I could kick it over was to use just the tip of my big toe, otherwise my foot would hit the foot peg before I could get it started.

 

[canyncarvr]

The frp lever places your foot right about atop the peg cuz it's shorter.

NOT underneath it as the oem lever does. What you're describing on the CR is close. Depends on the angle of your boot.

One'a these years, you'll make it up to john's peak for a ride and you then you could actually SEE one (my bike). ;)

Well, if I ever catch you on your new kdx-cr500 that is. I guess you could wait for me.........

 

[wibby]

:laugh:


I think I'll stick to my 200 for now...

I don't think I could afford putting tires on that 500!

 

[KDXFreestyle]

what is the bad thing, with the warning paper about using the frp lever? I dont get it.

 

[70 marlin]

I had a FRP on my son's 96 200. I never really liked it. It didn't clear his FMF rev pipe very well. Plus he was short and it was tougher for him to start the bike with it. Also when you kicked it over the starter arm hit the peg. He ended up losing it on a trail ride. I replaced it with a complete stock unit arm & knuckle($94 us) seems to work well and JR has an easier time starting the 200 with it.

 

[canyncarvr]

re: 'what is the bad thing, with the warning paper about using the frp lever? I dont get it.'

I don't know why 'we' are here, on a MONTHS old post, but I'll take it as a sign from God that 'freestyle is doing some research. YeeHAw!!

I assume (it's not mentioned here) that the 'warning paper' reference comes from another thread where the instruction sheet was mentioned as being very important?

Do you have an frp kicker? Or the sheet? If you do, then the 'bad thing' is clear.

If you don't check the clearance between the base of the kicker lever and the case throughout the possible lever movement you may end up ramming the lever against the clutch case. That's going to last for a few smacks, then you won't have a case to ram it against no 'moh. But then, you won't be riding anywhere for awhile, either!! ;)

Mostly this will happen with worn footpegs or peg pins. Still..if you stick on one'a frp's kickers and don't check the clearance, you may well be very very sorry. AND a whole lotta $$ poorer.

FTR. My frp kicker (with a new knuckle) 'tinked' a bit on my pipe. I'd already positioned it for the best fit, with some metal removal on the backside to clear the frame. BUT with the last trip to pacific crest pipe repair, the pipe fits much better. Kicker clearance isn't a problem right now.

FmF is famous for lousy fit. Just because one kicker hits the pipe doesn't mean the same is true for all kdx installs. If you had to guarantee that the lever you designed would fit every kdx with an FmF pipe.......you would have a nightmare on your hands for sure!

 

[KDXFreestyle]

yep, I DID A SEARCH!!! ITS A MIRACLE! nah jk

I remember hearing something about this, and reading this post, or another post like it, and I was curious to what was wrong with these levers. Ill probabky be getting one within a year or so. Thanks for the info!