KTM Countershaft Seal Replacement Procedure.

[biglou]

Here is a step by step example of how to change a leaking countershaft seal on the kTm's. Note that this bike is a 2001 MXC250. Your part numbers may differ, but the procedure should be the same.

Above: Picture one, the offending leak.

 

[biglou]

Picture two. The new parts required laid out on the order sheet from CyclezoneKTM in Topeka, KS. Great service here, folks. Give Mike Kruger a call if you need any kTm stuff. He is a DRN sponsor, a DirtWeek sponsor, and one heck of a fast rider! He also had a larger item in the order that was shipped, hence the $4 shipping charge, which is more than fair by most all other mailorder house standards, but that is what raised the cost. If Mike can throw it in an envelope, you get it for the cost of a stamp, or whatever. Great shop to deal with here, that's all I'm trying to say! Been buying from Mike for a year and a half now. Always great service, great prices, and fantastic shipping (although I am only 90 minutes away from Topeka!)

The new pieces-parts:

 

[biglou]

Pic number three. Remove the snap-ring holding the countershaft sprocket on.

 

[biglou]

Pic four. Remove the master link so you can drop the chain off the front sprocket.

 

[biglou]

Pic five. Remove the front sprocket.

 

[biglou]

Pic number six. Remove the bushing and the old O-ring from the countershaft. (The O-ring is hiding behind the bushing).

 

[biglou]

Number seven. Use a spring puller, or carefully pry with a screwdriver to remove the old seal from the case.

 

[biglou]

Picture number eight. Pulling the old seal:

 

[biglou]

Picture number nine. After ensuring that the countershaft area is clean, take the new seal and wipe the inner part of it with some gear case oil to help lubricate it. Next, use a large socket and rubber mallet to drive it in until it is flush with the case surface, just like the old one was.

 

[biglou]

Picture number ten. The new bushing and O-ring. I also lubricate the new O-ring by dipping it in gear case oil. I run my finger around the outside of the bushing with a little oil as well to ease its intallation into the new seal.

***Note the recessed area on the bushing for the O-ring to fit into. This goes into the case. O-ring goes on shaft first, followed by the bushing (recessed side first). The flat edge of the bushing faces outward.***

 

[biglou]

New parts are in! Almost finished!

 

[biglou]

Last picture. Reinstall the front sprocket and snap ring. Then, rethread the chain through the front sprocket and reinstall the master link with the opening of the master link clip facing the rear of the bike when on top of the swingarm. Now, wasn't that easy?

Total time: 45 minutes, including draining the oil, setting up, taking pictures, and cleanup.
Total cost: $41.98 for parts, including shipping, and add one litre of gear oil of your choice. (I conveniently put this off until I needed to change the gear case oil! :thumb: )

 

[Person8]

Great write up and pictures BigLou! This one should be archived.

Larry

 

[Katoum]

GigLoe why can I not view your picture's. Say I do not have permission. What's with that!

 

[biglou]

Katoum-Not sure why you can't see them. ??? They are posted directly into the thread, not linked in any way. *shrug*

 

[el presidente]

i can't see them either, says i don't have permission. something about buying the subscription

 

[MrLuckey]

Which step is "Lube the chain at least once a year" :p

 

[Mikeb]

Lou you are DA man :worship: :worship:

I gotta do this myself.

 

[biglou]

Originally posted by TTRGuy
Which step is "Lube the chain at least once a year" :p

That's true! That chain does look rather embarrassing, but I assure you, all the links pivot freely! Now, the YZF chain still looks like it's made out of 14k gold! :thumb:

 

[Tony Eeds]

Great info!
I would have been covered with grunge up to my elbows.
You forgot to tell us how many Ls of barley pops we would need.
Mmmmm, I guess the answer to that would be ... Mileage may vary! :p

 

[biglou]

Two for me! ;)

 

[geremacheks]

Great work, Lou,

Except it didn't work for me. Leaked bad after that fix. So I tried another idea which many have told me about:

Enduro Engineering suggests and sells two o-rings for this fix. One the normal size, and one small one. The small one goes over the counter shaft first, then the normal sized one follows.

I tried this, then took the bike for a ride, and it still leaked. I didn't have any ideas after that, except for putting Harley stickers over my KTM.

However, after letting the bike sit in the garage that night, I noticed it barely leaked overnight. So more test rides, and hardly any leaks. Now, if it drips at all, it's very minimal. Two orings fixed it.

I'll also add that if you don't need to change the oil, just lay the bike on its side without much gas in the tank. You can do the whole operation without any tranny oil leaking out.

I've heard different reasons for the cause of this leak. One mentioned often is a chain that is too tight. I'm not so sure this is the cause. It wasn't with my exc 200. The chain was excessively loose. I think this is just a KTM problem, and I notice on specs for their new bikes, they have tried to remedy this problem with new countershaft seals? and orings?.....

Oh, yeah. A $7.00 seal remover can be bought from Sears or most automotive stores that will pull the seal out easily too. It's big, but it gets in there and works like a claw hammer.

I wish I could say it was just a few hours of work then success. I was about ready to give up. I hope this keeps working.

 

[biglou]

I had taken the bushing and O-ring out once before and cleaned them and then reassembled. I was getting a "radial" oil pattern on the front sprocket for months, but all of a sudden, it started hitting the floor. That's when I cleaned things up and got it to go back to just the radial pattern on the sprocket after riding. I did the lean it over against the garage door routine that time. This time, I needed to change the oil anyway. I was actually putting of the seal change until it was time for the next oil change. Two birds, one stone... Anywho, I noticed the first time I took it apart, that the bushing was pitted. Since my little clean up stopped the leak from hitting the floor, I went with it for a few more months. When she started leaking enough to hit the floor, that's when I ordered the new parts. :)

Seems odd that yours still leaks after the fix. (knocking wood, I haven't ridden mine yet. But it's still dry with oil above the countershaft level)

 

[Person8]

You guys think the 'new and improved' parts will work on a previous years bike? I would think so, but haven't tried it. I get a little seepage, but not enough to drip on the floor. If (when?) it gets that bad I will try replacing the seal.

Larry

 

[Cappy]

I also get the "you do not have permission" screen. Has DRN changed it's policies? How can I get my permissions fixed?