I have a husky wxe 250 that has a bad miss anywhere above idle, it started as a miss at the top of the rpm range, in time it got in to the lower end of the rpm range , now it misses nearly right off the bottom' this change occured over 6 months or so, and several rides. Have changed jets, checked fuel delivery,changed carbs,used 100 octane fuel,checked reeds, rebuilt the top end, replaced spark plugs different heat ranges, checked the intake boot and replaced the cdi unit, disconected the kill switch, last i've tried a leak test, but i'm not really sure on the procedure on this and i;ve found that i must seal the hts cover (exhust valve). I'm baffeled and so is everyone who has looked at this bike, oh and i'ved ran it without the silencer, and checked the timming, confused, me too, anybody in the know out there ?
looking for a expert,nobody can fix this husky
- Thread starter jwseven
- Start date
Well jw it seems you have loked at almost everything. The only thing that you have not mentioned here is the ignition coil. My experience is that when they usually fail they open and will not produce anything. However, since you have looked into evrything else and haven't mentioned the coil give it a look see. Perhaps there is some sort of intemitten arc or short that is going on there. I think it would be visible if this were going on. That's about the only thing that I can think of that you haven't already looked into.
Yes thats what I was going to suggest. My old zinger had a persistant miss which I thought was bad jetting in the mid range. Funny this is this happened again two weeks ago and its the same problem. Zip ties holding the wiring loom to the frame wear through the protective coat and cause a short or arc out. Some heat shrink and tape and its revving its tits off nive and clean.'
Might not be...but its worth a look.
Might not be...but its worth a look.
- Thread starter
- #5
Hi dan, thanks for the reply I know that the coil and stator seem to be the last posible culprits, hoping someone has seen this problem and its something else i've overlook, its been everyones opinion that the stator or coil ether work or don't no in between.Also dan i see you own a 300 i had a 04 200 but for my riding skill and preferences,it was to pipey, not as smooth a powerband as i would like, how would you describe the power on your 300, we ride a wide range of terrain, the old husky is very smooth and stable. thanks j.w.
COLEMANAPP
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- Feb 19, 2002
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I was told by our local husky dealer that the ignitions on that era husky had 100% failure rate. I have replaced the stock ignitions with PVL ignitions in an 88 Husky and 93 husky after similar problems that you describe. The 88 would sputter at high rpms but still ran ok below that, always started right up. I probably could have had the motoplat ignitions repaired but in the back of my mind I kept picturing the veteran husky repair guy talking about that 100% failure rate.
Just my 2c, I had an ignition control go bad on an older Kawi I had,it displayed the same symptoms. it tested ok until the bike wouldn't start at all. I'm not sure that this is the same type ignition (CDI), but replaced it with an after market ignition and coils, the bike ran better than ever before.
-how would you describe the power on your 300, we ride a wide range of terrain, the old husky is very smooth and stable.-
jw, I don't know much about husky's so it is hard for me to make a comparison. However, the 300 EXC is simply the smootheset most stable bike that I have ever been aboard. Folks say that you can ride it like a 4 stroke. I can't say because the last 4 stroke I had was an XL100 umpteen thousand years ago. I do know that I lug the thing through the woods barely above idle sometimes and it never misses a beat. When I need it I have more 2 stroke power on tap than I can ever use. It comes on mild and just rolls through the power band as smooth as silk. Not jerky and hard hitting like my KX. I have done a lot to make my KX woods friendly and it is a far cry from it's original MX intentions but it still isn't as smooth as my 300. It took some adjusting too because it is so smooth. When I blip the throttle to get over a log or really pin it for a hill or water crossing it would be deceiving just how much power I was putting to the ground. Hands down the smoothest, easiest to ride bike I have ever owned.
The 300 was once my do all bike. Today I have learned that it is borderline for having too much power and torque. Sort of like when I tried out a KX500. It was a great bike but just a little more than I wanted to contend with in the woods. Lots of wheel spin for the way I ride. I can be sort of lazy on my 300 and know that it will get my 40 year old butt out of almost any situation that I get into. Turning some laps on my practice loop of about four miles my times are better on my KX250. This equates to when I am really riding hard and twisting the grip I'll do four miles about 30 seconds faster on my KX. It probably has something to do with the "flikability" of the KX as compared to the 300. I am splitting hairs here but my 300 is my enduro bike and my KX is my hare scramble bike. Either bike would be a good choice for either race. On my 300 I can sit back and ride all day and still be in good physical shape toward the end. However, for Hare Scrambles when I am trying to stay up on the pipe for the entire race the KX just gets it done a little better than my 300. I would think that almost any MX bike tuned for the woods would be this way. Have considered giving a 300 MXC a try on my practice loop and see what kind of times I get with it.
Dan
jw, I don't know much about husky's so it is hard for me to make a comparison. However, the 300 EXC is simply the smootheset most stable bike that I have ever been aboard. Folks say that you can ride it like a 4 stroke. I can't say because the last 4 stroke I had was an XL100 umpteen thousand years ago. I do know that I lug the thing through the woods barely above idle sometimes and it never misses a beat. When I need it I have more 2 stroke power on tap than I can ever use. It comes on mild and just rolls through the power band as smooth as silk. Not jerky and hard hitting like my KX. I have done a lot to make my KX woods friendly and it is a far cry from it's original MX intentions but it still isn't as smooth as my 300. It took some adjusting too because it is so smooth. When I blip the throttle to get over a log or really pin it for a hill or water crossing it would be deceiving just how much power I was putting to the ground. Hands down the smoothest, easiest to ride bike I have ever owned.
The 300 was once my do all bike. Today I have learned that it is borderline for having too much power and torque. Sort of like when I tried out a KX500. It was a great bike but just a little more than I wanted to contend with in the woods. Lots of wheel spin for the way I ride. I can be sort of lazy on my 300 and know that it will get my 40 year old butt out of almost any situation that I get into. Turning some laps on my practice loop of about four miles my times are better on my KX250. This equates to when I am really riding hard and twisting the grip I'll do four miles about 30 seconds faster on my KX. It probably has something to do with the "flikability" of the KX as compared to the 300. I am splitting hairs here but my 300 is my enduro bike and my KX is my hare scramble bike. Either bike would be a good choice for either race. On my 300 I can sit back and ride all day and still be in good physical shape toward the end. However, for Hare Scrambles when I am trying to stay up on the pipe for the entire race the KX just gets it done a little better than my 300. I would think that almost any MX bike tuned for the woods would be this way. Have considered giving a 300 MXC a try on my practice loop and see what kind of times I get with it.
Dan
noizeyneighbor
Member
- Feb 12, 2005
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I have to totally diasgree about the comment concerning a ignition coil either works or it doesn't.
I had a ignition coil fail last year on my boat and I ended up chasing my tail for 2 months with it. This problem would come and go but usually happened on the water, seldomly in the driveway hooked up to a garden hose!
The symptom was almost identical to yours expect that my problem found its way all the way down to starting the engine after 2 months of (top-end missing and cutting-out down to off-idle miss).
Replaced ignition coil with arms up in the air and BINGO that was it. I am a electronic tech by trade so here is what was happening!
Coil gets hot and electrically opens up or partial short across windings (not to ground). As soon as you back off the throttle the lower current flow in the secondary of your coil reduces the heat dissipation and coil works semi ok now.
I bet that your problem is definitely in your ignition system!
Try new or known ignition coil (should have a spare anyway). Check replace spark plug wire, power wires to ignition coil, etc. If not any better then consider buying a new or used "test stator". Good luck!
I had a ignition coil fail last year on my boat and I ended up chasing my tail for 2 months with it. This problem would come and go but usually happened on the water, seldomly in the driveway hooked up to a garden hose!
The symptom was almost identical to yours expect that my problem found its way all the way down to starting the engine after 2 months of (top-end missing and cutting-out down to off-idle miss).
Replaced ignition coil with arms up in the air and BINGO that was it. I am a electronic tech by trade so here is what was happening!
Coil gets hot and electrically opens up or partial short across windings (not to ground). As soon as you back off the throttle the lower current flow in the secondary of your coil reduces the heat dissipation and coil works semi ok now.
I bet that your problem is definitely in your ignition system!
Try new or known ignition coil (should have a spare anyway). Check replace spark plug wire, power wires to ignition coil, etc. If not any better then consider buying a new or used "test stator". Good luck!
noizeyneighbor,
Were there any visible signs on the coil that it was arcing or maybe the insulation had somewhat deteriorated? What you stated was sort of my thought for a possibility. I would think that there would probably be some signs this was going on. Especially if it was actually arcing.
Dan
Were there any visible signs on the coil that it was arcing or maybe the insulation had somewhat deteriorated? What you stated was sort of my thought for a possibility. I would think that there would probably be some signs this was going on. Especially if it was actually arcing.
Dan
- Thread starter
- #13
Thanks to all you guys out there,colman, bud, noizy dan and od, you've given me hope to pursue this problem a little further, talked to the accepted 2stroke guru in the area, last friday and he told me the stator was under the most load when the bike is idleing ,if it runs there, its good??? But this is what I was looking to hear; that people had come across the idenical problem and found it to be stator or coil, I have long suspected the stator as the culprit, based on events and the physical apperance of the unit ; but because of cost, opinions to the contrary and other factors I've look elsewhere for the problem. so again thanks to all for your help. j.w.
- Thread starter
- #14
Hi colman I read in your post that you purchased PVL ignitions, did you by them from the outfit in Ohio , I,ve looked on there web site before and noticed they state, they only sell to established motorsport businesses, were you able to purchase from them or did you get your ignition elsewhere. thanks j.w.
COLEMANAPP
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- Feb 19, 2002
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I had a shop get mine. I also see them regularly on e***y for $299 if it'll fit yours. Penton Imports is where to get it, can't remember where they were. Its been 2 years on both bikes, very happy with the outcome. Like I was told about replacing individual pieces (stator, coil) from OEM, they're known to fail so if you like the bike, just get the PVL. Hope it helps.
Bob
Bob
marcusgunby
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 9, 2000
- 6,450
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coils do funny things when they are on the way out-i would look at the coil then the stator.
What year bike are we talkin about here?? And what ignition is in there now?? I replaced the SEM ignition on my 81 Husky with a MotoPlat unit becasue it failed.. One thing to check. Is the key on the crank sheared?? This could allow the flywheel to move and change the timing.
- Thread starter
- #18
Zilla, this is a 91 250 with a motoplat, and I know this sounds stupid, but the key has been sheared off almost everytime I've taken the flywheel off, I've been not wanting to believe that this is happening when I put the flywheel on but when I'm taking it off, though I do not know how to really tell when exactly this is happening. All I know is it always runs the same ,I do put it on with my air ratchet on the lowest setting, it has always been a nagging question in my mind when this key is shearing.These keys have mostly been the hardware store variety and I'm hoping the new ones I've recently gotten from a husky dealer will be of a better quality,and solve the problem? j.w.
noizeyneighbor
Member
- Feb 12, 2005
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"Were there any visible signs on the coil that it was arcing or maybe the insulation had somewhat deteriorated? What you stated was sort of my thought for a possibility. I would think that there would probably be some signs this was going on. Especially if it was actually arcing.
Dan"
While my boat coil is truly a automotive coil (boat has a chevy 350 "MERCRUISER" I/O). The coil when compared to a motorcycle ign. coils is electrically the same.
You won't be able to see any signs of arcing because the primary and secondary windings of a coil are fully enclosed and insulated. Essentially you have coils of wire (windings) and if anywhere in the middle of the coils of wire there becomes a breakdown in the wires coating (insulation) you will get arcing and lots of things can happend such as causing the winding to put out half as much voltage as the coil is designed to (aka weak spark) to arc shorting directly to ground. Eventually the coil fails then its a easy find.
This can "heal" itslef while at idle or the bike is parked because the coil cools down. This is typically called a thermal event. Weird things can and will happen and this problem WILL make you chase your tail! It did me!
Our toold against this mess is to keep a spare new/known good used coil for troubleshooting or replacement.
Dan"
While my boat coil is truly a automotive coil (boat has a chevy 350 "MERCRUISER" I/O). The coil when compared to a motorcycle ign. coils is electrically the same.
You won't be able to see any signs of arcing because the primary and secondary windings of a coil are fully enclosed and insulated. Essentially you have coils of wire (windings) and if anywhere in the middle of the coils of wire there becomes a breakdown in the wires coating (insulation) you will get arcing and lots of things can happend such as causing the winding to put out half as much voltage as the coil is designed to (aka weak spark) to arc shorting directly to ground. Eventually the coil fails then its a easy find.
This can "heal" itslef while at idle or the bike is parked because the coil cools down. This is typically called a thermal event. Weird things can and will happen and this problem WILL make you chase your tail! It did me!
Our toold against this mess is to keep a spare new/known good used coil for troubleshooting or replacement.
Vince Stokes
Member
- May 30, 2002
- 64
- 0
The woodruf key is not suppose to stop the flywheel turning,its to locate it in a fixed position.
The taper on the sharf is what is suppose to stop it turning.Take the key out and lap the flywheel to
the taper with valve paste,look for a nice even colour change on the sharft with no high spots
The taper on the sharf is what is suppose to stop it turning.Take the key out and lap the flywheel to
the taper with valve paste,look for a nice even colour change on the sharft with no high spots
