Low end bog

[BigJack]

I had to rebuild my engine due to a shreaded bearing on the crank. Well I got it back together and it runs but the low end sucks. It seems to bog down in the lower rpm range. Once I get it revving it rips. I'm pretty sure my jetting is a little rich but could that be it. I have no air leaks any where. I've cleaned the carb several times and checked the flaot height. I live in South Fla. at sea level with high humidity and high heat. My bike is a 01 KDX 200 with a Gnarly pipe and fmf silencer, boysen reed valve, and weisco piston. My jetting is main-162, pilot-48, needle- stock R1174K, and my air screw is about 1 1/4 turns out. :bang:

 

[BigJack]

Anybody????

 

[captbly99]

I have a '95 200, and I have a Fatty, and Turbine Core 2, Boyenson reeds, I was running 160/48, 1174(2nd clip from top)
Which I think was stock,I was running way rich, a lot of spooge. I dropped pilot to 45 and main to 155 and it seems to run much better, I also run yamalube 40:1. Maybe drop each jet one at a time and see if it makes a diff. I live in GA.Also I have a fresh top end, I didn't make changes until after top end and the silencer addition.
Good luck!

 

[G. Gearloose]

Isn't it a a flatness, a gurgle, but not a bog? If its still fireing its not a bog.

 

[John Harris]

Change your jetting: In stock carb clip on needle second from top ring. Go to 42 pilot and 155 main with air screw 1.5 turns out then fine tune from there! To repeat the old info--every bike is different and you should jet with plug chops, etc. but the above settings should get you in the ball park. Do not jet with your fuel/oil mixture ratios, but set this at what you plan to use first! Jetting is the easiest and best change for the money you can make! Ride Safe John

 

[Canadian Dave]

If I understand what you are saying the bike ran fine before the rebuild and now it runs poorly on the bottom end it that right?

I'm guessing that you rebuilt the top end and well it that right? If so did you follow the manual word for word when you reinstalled the KIPS valves? If you answer is yes then you'll want to recheck the timing of the sub=port valves and make sure that they are properly aligned. There is a mistake in most of the Kawasaki KDX shop manuals that wrongly identified the Left and Right valve. If not timed properly you bike will loose a good deal of bottom end power.

You can find a correction to the Kawasaki manual on the JustKDX web site as well as a procedure for checking the timing by simply removing the exhaust pipe and looking into the exhaust port.

Let us know how it turns out.

David

 

[Green Hornet]

Wholey Smokes, CANANDIAN DAVE!!!!! :aj: :aj: :yikes:

 

[19Brendan81]

Ha Ha Ha, I thought the same thing Green Hornet when I saw him on the Stock Pipe mods post!

Good to have you here o wise and venerable one :cool: :worship:

 

[rlbranson]

Could someone tell me how to find this correction to the kdx shop manual concerning the power valve components. and how to check the timing by looking in the exhaust port. My 200 is quite wimpy on the bottom and no one around here knows anything about kdx's. Thanks for any info.

Bob
kdx200 ('98)

 

[John Cena]

Here's the manual correction http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/correction.html

When you look threw the exhaust port you should be able to see the valves closed there on the left and right of the E port and when you activate the kips manually they should both open up.

 

[rlbranson]

Thanks guys, you may have saved me from having a temper tantrum. I printed that page out and will compare it to my shop manual. once when I got the bike back from the kaw dealer they had the reed valve in wrong and the bike had very little power. I just don't feel that I am having much luck with kawasaki. Thanks again.

Bob.
'98kdx200

 

[BigJack]

If I understand what you are saying the bike ran fine before the rebuild and now it runs poorly on the bottom end it that right?

I'm guessing that you rebuilt the top end and well it that right? If so did you follow the manual word for word when you reinstalled the KIPS valves? If you answer is yes then you'll want to recheck the timing of the sub=port valves and make sure that they are properly aligned. There is a mistake in most of the Kawasaki KDX shop manuals that wrongly identified the Left and Right valve. If not timed properly you bike will loose a good deal of bottom end power.

You can find a correction to the Kawasaki manual on the JustKDX web site as well as a procedure for checking the timing by simply removing the exhaust pipe and looking into the exhaust port.

Let us know how it turns out.

David

Not even close! But good try. :cool: I bought the bike broken. The previous owner thought it would just need a top end rebuild but it turned out to be a shreaded connecting rod bearing at the crank. That means complete rebuild. I have no way to compare how it ran before. I do believe it's the jetting and I will start there. I have some huge jets compared to other people in my area. I didn't completly take the kips valve apart but did follow the manual to set it right. I had the cylinder off and made sure it acuated correctly. I think I got it right. If the jetting doesn't help I'll look in to that. I appreciate all the help guys. Even though the bike is not 100% it still pulls hard as is a blast to ride. :aj:

 

[canyncarvr]

'Not even close...but good try?'

Actually he's right on the money.

Consider:

'I didn't completly take the kips valve apart but did follow the manual to set it right.'


CD's earlier response of:
'If so did you follow the manual word for word.... If you answer is yes then you'll want to recheck the timing of the sub=port valves'


Then....

'I think I got it right.'


You show disrespect to CD AND not-so-smarts to completely disregard his advice..then say 'Not even close...good try,' to boot!

Do yourself a favor. Read what he said and follow his advice. Don't 'think' you did, but know you did the KIPS right.

And...check the reed cage to see if indeed it is backwards.

Nice to see you here, Dave!

 

[G. Gearloose]

Thought it was just me; I concur, smartazz reply to most plausible solution given the evidence. Good way not hear CD for another year.

 

[BigJack]

'Not even close...but good try?'

Actually he's right on the money.

Consider:

'I didn't completly take the kips valve apart but did follow the manual to set it right.'


CD's earlier response of:
'If so did you follow the manual word for word.... If you answer is yes then you'll want to recheck the timing of the sub=port valves'


Then....

'I think I got it right.'


You show disrespect to CD AND not-so-smarts to completely disregard his advice..then say 'Not even close...good try,' to boot!

Do yourself a favor. Read what he said and follow his advice. Don't 'think' you did, but know you did the KIPS right.

And...check the reed cage to see if indeed it is backwards.

Nice to see you here, Dave!

Whatever buddy!!! :ahhh: I followed the manual and I'm not some stupid little kid. I've worked on a lot of different bikes. I don't know what your problem is but I was not being a smartass to some guy you hold in high regard!!! I thought this was a forum that helped people out. I guess I was DEAD WRONG!!! As far as his reply, he assumed certain things. You know what they say about A$$uming. I followed the manual. I did not remove the kips but cleaned it well. I made sure it was timed right per the manual. MY manual does not have the error that some do. I guess people are right when they say this site has some less than desirable members.

 

[BigJack]

Not that anybody's gonna read this but I figured i'd put it in for the noobs. I changed my jetting to a 155 main and a 45 pilot. I have a broken clutch cable so I can't be sure but it feels alot better. The throttle is a little smoother with that kick you get at about half way up the rpm range. It pulls up the front in 1-3 gears..... :)

 

[G. Gearloose]

profound...downright revolutionary.
Tell everyone what oil to use too, thats never been covered either.

 

[Mully]

Ok, that is enough of that.