I just got it yesterday and rode it down the street once and seemed to run fine.It was at night and the header was glowing orange!Is that bad?when im in my garage and I try to start it.It smells like gas real bad!Is it running rich?oh yeah and when it backfires when it first starts it shoots a blue flame out of the rear pipe!Is this bike just all f**ked up or is it typical 4-stroke?I am new to them and would like to know some tips!
My 99 yz400f is really hard to start(PLEASE HELP)it takes like a million kicks!
- Thread starter CR_RIDER
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Assuming your bike isn't a complete POS, this might help.
This was originally posted on the Yamaha USA website around the time the YZ250F first came out.
To further enhance the enjoyment of these products, please follow the step-by-step instructions as explained by Doug Dubach, Four-Stroke Motocross Champion and Yamaha test rider. These helpful tips will ensure quick and easy starting of your Yamaha four-stroke motorcycle.
COLD ENGINE STARTING:
1.Make sure the bike has fuel, then turn on fuel petcock.
2.Pull out choke knob (black knob on left side of the carburetor).
3.Prime the engine by giving the throttle two full turns (only if the bike has not been started in a day or two).
4.Apply firm pressure to the kick-starter with your foot until you hit distinct resistance (this is the compression stroke/hard spot).
5.While keeping pressure on the kick-starter, pull in the compression release lever and push the kick-starter past the compression stroke/hard spot. The kick-starter needs to only move about 1 to 2 inches past the hard spot. That is all!
6.Release the compression release lever and return the kick-starter to the top
7.Now, kick to start. Do not touch the throttle, as the engine will start and idle on it's own
8.If the bike does not start, repeat steps 4 through 7 only until the engine starts.
HOT ENGINE STARTING
1.Pull out the hot start knob (red knob on the left side of the carburetor).
2.Follow steps 4 through 7 until engine starts.
3.You may have to apply some throttle after the engine starts until you get the hot start knob pushed back in because the carburetor is sending a lean mixture while the hot start knob is out.
The only difference between hot and cold starting is which knob you use, choke or hot start. There is no need to deviate from these simple steps. Remember, DO NOT touch the throttle during hot or cold starting. Also, there is no reason to prime the engine again on the same day of riding.
OTHER HELPFUL TIPS
It helps to become comfortable with steps 4 through 7. By becoming familiar with these steps you will become more efficient and will be able to perform them quicker. The faster you can get through steps 4 through 7 the quicker you will get going.
You need to give the engine what it wants! Understand that the choke will give the engine a rich mixture and the hot start will give the engine a lean mixture. If you have kicked the engine several times during a cold starting procedure and it still won't start, maybe it has too much fuel. Don't be afraid to push the choke back in and use the hot start, even though the engine is cold, this will give the engine a lean mixture and that might be just what it wants.
Again, make sure you don't go more than an inch or two past the hard spot when setting up your kick, and return the kick tarter all the way to the top, especially on the 250F. This will ensure that you get a proper kick and make your race day more enjoyable.
This was originally posted on the Yamaha USA website around the time the YZ250F first came out.
To further enhance the enjoyment of these products, please follow the step-by-step instructions as explained by Doug Dubach, Four-Stroke Motocross Champion and Yamaha test rider. These helpful tips will ensure quick and easy starting of your Yamaha four-stroke motorcycle.
COLD ENGINE STARTING:
1.Make sure the bike has fuel, then turn on fuel petcock.
2.Pull out choke knob (black knob on left side of the carburetor).
3.Prime the engine by giving the throttle two full turns (only if the bike has not been started in a day or two).
4.Apply firm pressure to the kick-starter with your foot until you hit distinct resistance (this is the compression stroke/hard spot).
5.While keeping pressure on the kick-starter, pull in the compression release lever and push the kick-starter past the compression stroke/hard spot. The kick-starter needs to only move about 1 to 2 inches past the hard spot. That is all!
6.Release the compression release lever and return the kick-starter to the top
7.Now, kick to start. Do not touch the throttle, as the engine will start and idle on it's own
8.If the bike does not start, repeat steps 4 through 7 only until the engine starts.
HOT ENGINE STARTING
1.Pull out the hot start knob (red knob on the left side of the carburetor).
2.Follow steps 4 through 7 until engine starts.
3.You may have to apply some throttle after the engine starts until you get the hot start knob pushed back in because the carburetor is sending a lean mixture while the hot start knob is out.
The only difference between hot and cold starting is which knob you use, choke or hot start. There is no need to deviate from these simple steps. Remember, DO NOT touch the throttle during hot or cold starting. Also, there is no reason to prime the engine again on the same day of riding.
OTHER HELPFUL TIPS
It helps to become comfortable with steps 4 through 7. By becoming familiar with these steps you will become more efficient and will be able to perform them quicker. The faster you can get through steps 4 through 7 the quicker you will get going.
You need to give the engine what it wants! Understand that the choke will give the engine a rich mixture and the hot start will give the engine a lean mixture. If you have kicked the engine several times during a cold starting procedure and it still won't start, maybe it has too much fuel. Don't be afraid to push the choke back in and use the hot start, even though the engine is cold, this will give the engine a lean mixture and that might be just what it wants.
Again, make sure you don't go more than an inch or two past the hard spot when setting up your kick, and return the kick tarter all the way to the top, especially on the 250F. This will ensure that you get a proper kick and make your race day more enjoyable.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks rich that is some very useful tips.Its a good thing too no.But On my carb it dosent have a choke it is a edlebrock.and I think it is a auto choke?It is really hard to start.but I was giving it some throttle and There was a little puddle of gas.Did I just flood it? :coocoo:
CR_RIDER said:
Then I guess you're screwed.
Good luck with that. :whoa:
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- Thread starter
- #6
Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:yell: Is anyone going to help me figure out if the edelbrock is a quad carb or what.I've tryed to ask more questions on other post but they are gone in like 5 minutes.Someone keeps deleting them?Why Im really trying here guys.I want to learn about my bike as much as posible.could anyone please help me. :(
:yell: Is anyone going to help me figure out if the edelbrock is a quad carb or what.I've tryed to ask more questions on other post but they are gone in like 5 minutes.Someone keeps deleting them?Why Im really trying here guys.I want to learn about my bike as much as posible.could anyone please help me. :(
junkjeeps
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Nov 24, 2001
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Looks like the 400/426 is listed under the ATV's. It doesn't say anything about the choke, but it does say that the hot start is no longer necessary with the Edel carb.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/atv_carbs/YZ400_install.pdf
*Hint* - Rants like your previous post won't help you in getting much assistance here.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/atv_carbs/YZ400_install.pdf
*Hint* - Rants like your previous post won't help you in getting much assistance here.
I remember an earlier thread where you asked for our opinion about the trade.. Many people warned you against it, and you basically told us to go screw.
So, now you have this bike, and you can't start it and you are crying to us?
Ahhhh sweet justice. :coocoo: :nener:
So, now you have this bike, and you can't start it and you are crying to us?
Ahhhh sweet justice. :coocoo: :nener:
it wouldnt matter if the carb is for a quad or not, a 4-stroke motor is a 4-stroke motor. now whether its a good carb for your motor i couldnt tell you. please tell me you ran, and started it before you traded. how did it work then? have you tried starting it following the starting procedure given? just ignoring the choke part?
SINGLETRAC
Member
- Oct 10, 2007
- 145
- 0
IndyMX said:
anyone else smell that ?? a big dish of told ya so !! :nod: cr dude, here starts your 4 stroke fun.get your valves checked, hopefully at a shop were they will let you watch and learn. this time listen and take advice :rotfl:
Moparman1539
Member
- Sep 9, 2006
- 804
- 0
When your starting it DON'T TOUCH the throttle.. Its not your 2-stroke anymore... it will only flood out the engine which isn't good...
Go get the valves adjusted at the shop.. and go to the guy who sold it to you and ask him how he started it...
Go get the valves adjusted at the shop.. and go to the guy who sold it to you and ask him how he started it...
- Thread starter
- #13
What do you have to do to adjust the valves?How much would the shop charge :think: ?I am at the breaking point!!!!I tryed starting it earlier and stayed out there for 45 (MOD EDIT: don't make me clean up unacceptable language again) :yell: And kicked it over at least 500 times :| .I just wish I could ride it off road one time.It makes me soooo mad it seriously makes me wanna cry!!! :fft:
- Thread starter
- #15
oh Do you think that would fix the problem :think: ?Im so sorry for bad language I am just soooo mad :uh: And yes.I should have listen to you guys about not trading.YOU were so right!!!I am just dissapointed in the condition of the bike and the way the last owners (didnt) take care of it!Could I just take the whole bike up to the shop and tell them It wont start and tell them too fix it at all cost as long as its in the $300 range?please help me guys im sorry for being violent with anger! :(
Dude, everyone told you NOT to get this bike, especially with your (no offense) lack of mechanical skills. This is what a USED bike generally is... get used to it.
If you can't even change the top end in a CR125, GOOD LUCK when you have to do it in your YZF.
And when you have to replace the valves (probably soon).. good luck with that too.
(notice I used the word 'when' not 'if')
Remeber, its going to cost $$$ - $500 if your lucky.
P.S. is the gas on?
Checking the valves is easy, get a shop manual then get some feeler gauges (the correct size) and go.
The taking it to the shop thing sounds pointless. You could spend $300 just to learn that a fuel line is clogged, or you could get your bike back in pieces and learn you need to drop a grand into it. Check the valves, read the plug, do other checks to see if its okay.
(no offense) but your the one that gives us less then 20 year olds a bad name...
If you can't even change the top end in a CR125, GOOD LUCK when you have to do it in your YZF.
And when you have to replace the valves (probably soon).. good luck with that too.
(notice I used the word 'when' not 'if')
Remeber, its going to cost $$$ - $500 if your lucky.
P.S. is the gas on?
Checking the valves is easy, get a shop manual then get some feeler gauges (the correct size) and go.
The taking it to the shop thing sounds pointless. You could spend $300 just to learn that a fuel line is clogged, or you could get your bike back in pieces and learn you need to drop a grand into it. Check the valves, read the plug, do other checks to see if its okay.
(no offense) but your the one that gives us less then 20 year olds a bad name...
- Thread starter
- #17
Well im sorry cabot.My dad never helped me with anything and I droped out of school in the 9th grade.Maybe these are some of the reasons for quote"lack of mechanical skills".I just love too ride and im not good with math.and calculations and stuff!If I could watch and learn then It would be real helpful for ME doing the matinence in the nearest future!lol.I just wish I would have more no how on 4-strokes.Im the type I cant read somthing and be able to follow on with trying it out.I have too watch someone explain and then I would have a better perspective of things.I watched my friend take the motor out and put it back in his camaro and I tryed it myself on my former camaro and was sucsessful!
Did the bike run the day you traded? Was the previous owner able to start it? Did the previous owner mention why the bike ended up with this carb on it?
I'd start by spending my money an a Factory Yamaha Service Manual and go from there. Your at the stage where you now own a large paperweight so you may as well start to experiment.
I'd start by spending my money an a Factory Yamaha Service Manual and go from there. Your at the stage where you now own a large paperweight so you may as well start to experiment.
- Thread starter
- #19
Thanks chili.Your like the first one to actually give me valuble info Without giving me a hard time.THANKS FOR TRYING TO HELP ME IT MEENS ALOT!!Whatever help I can get is very useful.I can use all the help I can get.And it came with the factory service manual.And he said the carb was on it when he bought it from a guy.And yes he started it somehow the day we traded.It has an adjustable idle thing on it.
Moparman1539
Member
- Sep 9, 2006
- 804
- 0
Check your spark plug. Take it out of the head, put the electrical cap back on it, and hold the treads up agenst the motor case, and kick it over, there should be a fat blue spark that will jump. If nothing, then you need a new plug and that WILL cause alot of frustration.
And call they guy up who traded you and ask him how he started it... And maybe a trade back if you want your CR back. (doubtful but maybe its not what he wanted either)
And call they guy up who traded you and ask him how he started it... And maybe a trade back if you want your CR back. (doubtful but maybe its not what he wanted either)
- Thread starter
- #21
Yeah I will call him And see.I would really love to have a 250 2-stroke It would be perfect.But I will def try to take the sparkplug off.What would I have to take of to get to the sparkplug? The gas tank/shrouds and what else?would I have to drain the fuel?And I am not going to part with this bike.I really want to gett it working properly.It was a blast ridding it for 5 minutes....lol.I would really love this bike.IF IT WOULD RUN!!!
While the bike may in fact have issues my guess is your just flat out not kicking this thing hard enough to get it to fire. I had some issues learning to start my sons first 250F this year after being a 2 stroke rider my whole life and it boiled down to me, not the bike.
Go back to the post by Rich early in this thread and follow the starting procedure the best you can based on having a different carb. Perhaps you can dig up some info on the carb as far as the choke circuit etc.
Go back to the post by Rich early in this thread and follow the starting procedure the best you can based on having a different carb. Perhaps you can dig up some info on the carb as far as the choke circuit etc.
- Thread starter
- #23
Oh believe me im kick it probably to hard!I got 280 pounds pushing down on my foot!!And I looked on another thred(thumper talk) and I red abunch of stuff about the edelbrock And alot of people like it???Maybe the valves are really needing service that bad.
Moparman1539
Member
- Sep 9, 2006
- 804
- 0
unless its the spark plug... i was ready to throw my bike off a cliff because it wouldn't start.. and it ended being the spark plug...
And i dont know what you need to take off... i doubt there is enough room to get a wrench up without taking the gas tank itself off.. (like 2 bolts in front and a rubber strap under the seat by the back of the tank) take the shrouds off first though, then the seat
And i dont know what you need to take off... i doubt there is enough room to get a wrench up without taking the gas tank itself off.. (like 2 bolts in front and a rubber strap under the seat by the back of the tank) take the shrouds off first though, then the seat
- May 14, 2000
- 1,082
- 6
sp
this could be some of the prob,... without a choke its a good possibilty that you might need to turn the idle up slightly while cold starting, then once its warmed up, return to normal idle. If the original owner turned the idle down after warming it up, it may be too low for cold starting. Remember NO THROTTLE when starting. Good luck
CR_RIDER said:
this could be some of the prob,... without a choke its a good possibilty that you might need to turn the idle up slightly while cold starting, then once its warmed up, return to normal idle. If the original owner turned the idle down after warming it up, it may be too low for cold starting. Remember NO THROTTLE when starting. Good luck
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