Steering stem bearings - 97 CR250

[Basenji]

On my '97 CR250, the steering stem has a little bit of play in it. It wiggles. Gives bad vibration and I'm sure its bad to let go. I intend to replace the upper and lower bearings in the steering stem. I'd been under the impression that the most difficult thing for me to do here would be to have the stem pressed. So I'd take it somewhere else and have that done. But I'm looking in my service manual and it's got like 6 different tools they recommend I should use to do this. Are these really necessary? Some of the tools are: Ball race remover, Bearing race installer, Installer shaft. There's others listed but I can take care of that. My question is, can I do it without these? I'd really like to avoid having to take my entire bike to a shop, but it would be cheaper than trying to buy or get a hold of these tools. Any input from someone familiar with steering stems let me know. Thanks in advance.
-Kevin

 

[Ol'89r]

Basenji.

The bearings you are talking about are tapered bearings and they may just need adjustment. If you remove the steering stem from the frame, you can inspect these bearings and most likely just grease them and re-assemble them.

If they have to be removed, the hardest bearing to get off is the one at the bottom of the stem. If you put the stem, upside down in a vice, you can take a slender chisel in between the triple tree and the bearing, (in the lower seal area), and carefully tap the bearing down. Tap lightly while going back and forth around the bearing so it doesn't bind on the shaft. It doesn't matter if you ruin the bearing and seal since you will be replacing them anyway, but, be careful not to damage the aluminum triple tree or the stem.

Using a piece of pipe with an inside diameter a little bigger than the stem, you can drive the new bearing back on. Don't forget to put the seal on first and then drive the new bearing down tight. Make sure the piece of pipe only contacts the inside race and not the bearing cage.

Removing the outer bearing races from the frame can be done with a long punch and a hammer. Use the same proceedure by tapping the bearing race back and forth from side to side as to not bind it in the frame.

Reverse the proceedure to install the new outer races, but, be careful not to slip and damage the bearing surface of the race. Tap them into the frame until you feel them bottom solidly in the frame. Grease the bearings using a good waterproof grease and re-assemble.

I hope this makes sense, it's early and I've only had one cup of coffee.:confused:

 

[Basenji]

This will make more sense to me when I begin to take it apart tonight. My question now is, why would anyone want/need to remove the bearing races? I'm not even sure what they do. So in the event that all I need to do is take the steering stem out of the frame and grease the bearings, I can simply put it back in the frame, tighten everything back up and be good to go?
-Kevin

 

[Ol'89r]

Basenji.

Yes, it will make more sense to you when you can see it. Your bearings consist of an inner race with caged rollers attached to it and an outer race that is pressed into the steering head of the frame.

The only reason for replacing these are if they are damaged, rusted or etched from rust. If they are in good condition, simply clean and re-grease them and put them back together.

Be careful if you use a high pressure washer to clean your bike. The water can get into the bearing area and cause the bearings to rust.

When you put it back together, snug the nut on the top of the bearing until all of the play is gone, (don't overtighten) and then install the crown and tighten the lock nut to the specs given in your manual.

 

[MikeT]

You might just need to tighten the notched "nut" at the top of the stem. It might take a little while to get it just right, but if it isn't damaged, then this is your problem.

 

[Basenji]

I think it was the adjusting nut. I took the stem out and greased the two bearings. While taking it off I did notice that adjuster nut was only thumb tight. When I put it back on I tightened down quite a bit more and it seems the problem is fixed. Thanks for the help.
-Kevin

 

[NO HAND]

That adjusting nut needs only 5 ft/lb torque. It's quite fussy also because if you don't tight enough you get the wobble and too much gives you a stiff steering.