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Message: [QUOTE="wrooster, post: 95413, member: 21800"] [b]mission complete...[/b] randy, good luck with your fixes. i did the timing mod last night, took about an hour (i was slow but very careful!). all went well. although i did not ride the trails afterwards, by just playing around in the backyard and in the street out front i note that there is a difference. the real test comes this weekend. i did not have any kind of hesitation or missing in the midrange, as you experienced. however, my brother has a yz250f which i rode back to back with my re-timed wr250f. the yz250f does have a slightly stronger midrange pull, and it's certainly easier to loft the front tire with the yzf. i think that now i have to play with my jetting (it's still stock and served me well before the timing mod) to get the midrange really going strong. so the situation i have is: 2001 wr250f, yzf timing, Vortip exhaust insert, throttle stop cut, airbox lid off, stock jetting, 94octane pump gas, 100' ASL. it certainly is very rideable-- pulls strong from down low to up high, with no funny noises. but i think a midrange jetting adjustment is in order to get it just right. i'm sort of jetting-knowledge-impaired so if anyone has any thoughts on my next jetting move i'm happy to listen. the wrooster ps i have a few hints for those who want to do the timing mod-- 1) very important--> wash the bike well, in fact, wash the bike with the seat and the gas tank off! when you take the cam cover off and see the bright shiny stuff that yamaha so carefully put together you don't want any dirt falling in there! one piece of silica sand will ruin an intake or exhaust valve stem or make a 0.010" deep groove on one of your camshaft lobes. don't think "ok, that's clean enough" -- when you pull the cam cover out from under the frame rail, you can't help but bump the wires and tubes that are strapped to the underside of the frame rail. if there's any dirt or grit hung up there it will be inside your engine in the time it takes to fall 3". put some saran wrap around the top tube and all of the wire and tubing there *before* you take the cam cover off. place some more saran wrap around the left radiator and underneath the steering stem. 2) it's been said before, but it bears repeating. there is a steel "c" shaped clip under the camshaft cap that retains the exhaust cam bearing. if you are not careful, this clip (it looks like 1/2 of a piston ring, see your WR manual, page 4-21, item 6) will fall into the camshaft chain well and into the bottom of the engine. this happened to a couple of folks and they were lucky enough to be able to retrieve it with one of those "extendo-magnet" telescoping retrievers. but, as they say, "an ounce of prevention..." -- pay attention and locate it before completely removing the camshaft cap from the head. and before you pull the camsaft cap out from under the frame, be damn sure that the clip is either still in place on top of the cam OR your fingers are keeping it in place up underneath the camshaft cap. caveat wrencher! 3) as many others have, i did the job with the left radiator on. there was no problem with it there, but again watch out for dirt. 4) before starting in, get the specified yamaha gasket sealer or equivalent (i used permatex #2B gasket sealer from pep boys and it seemed to work just fine). you need this when you put the cam cover back on; note that the sealer only goes on about a quarter of the way around, as shown on page 4-27, bottom figure. smooth it out with a finishing nail and make sure that there is enough sealer, but not so much that it's going to glob up and drop into the engine internals when you seat the cover. 5) the photos and comments from dirt bike magazine are actually pretty helpful with meat of the operation: [url]http://losdos.dyndns.org:8080/public/wr-yz-timing-change/wr-yz-timing-change.jpg[/url] 6) you need a torque wrench for this operation, don't take chances when you tighten the camshaft cap bolts. steel bolts, aluminum head, long wrench, yadda yadda yadda. borrow or buy a decent t-wrench with a suitable low range (e.g. the cap bolts are 7.2ft-lbs) , and follow the criss-cross order (loosening and tightening) specified in the manual. 7) it's not necessary to remove the spark plug when doing the timing mod. just twist-tie the spark plug wire out of the way before taking the cam cover off. 8) good luck. [/QUOTE]

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