'01 WR 250F Questions????

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#1
let it be known that i am a dumb a$$ when it comes to non-smokers, as evident by this post,,please forgive me as i am trying to learn...

1. my timing mark plug (the small top one on the shifter side of the case) fell out while riding, when i got to my trailer i noticed oil all over my boot, hence the plug was gone, i didnt lose enough to hurt the engine but after i thought about it there shouldnt be any oil in the flywheel cover right?? possibly a bad seal?? my dealer says that when the plug fell out it acted as a vent for the crankcase which expelled oil into the cover (about a pint to be exact) .. i am smart enough to know to never trust a dealer especially under a possible warranty situation,,are they right are is there a seal failure?????

2. jetting on a four stroke is strange to me (no premix to add to the equation) the jetting is stock and the bike is very responsive, (dont fix what aint broke!) my question is the head pipe, it has turned a bronze/purple/blue color, im assuming this is normal,,,,is it or am i lean????

3. do the stock tires really suck that bad or am i just not on the gas enough??? (probably both!!)

4. during an oil change is more oil better ( top of hash marks on dipstick) or is in the middle ok ?????

5.how critical is the valve adjustment after initial break in ??? (10 hrs. or so)

6. any other tips for a NON-SMOKING NEWBIE!!!!

thanks,,,craig williams jax,fl. (FTR #242):silly: :silly: :silly: :silly:
 
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#2
Originally posted by cw242

1. ...

No idea - but let us know when you find out.

2. ...the head pipe, it has turned a bronze/purple/blue color, im assuming this is normal,,,,is it or am i lean????

This is completely normal. I think they used Reynolds wrap to make the header - it is very thin and if you let your WR idle in the dark you will see it glow. The extreme heat is the reason for the discoloration.

3. do the stock tires really suck that bad or am i just not on the gas enough??? (probably both!!)

739s must have been built for somewhere - maybe your riding area? They were horrible for me. Cross some mud ruts diagonally and see if your tires cross or enter the ruts...

4. during an oil change is more oil better ( top of hash marks on dipstick) or is in the middle ok ?????

Middle is best as the volume of the oil will expand when the bike heats up. More importantly - change your oil often.

5.how critical is the valve adjustment after initial break in ??? (10 hrs. or so)

If the clearance is too small, you risk the chance of some of the valves remaining open during the combustion phase. This will superheat and destroy the valves - and your day.

6. any other tips for a NON-SMOKING NEWBIE!!!!

YZ time that puppy! The was no downside to this free modification for me.

- Sean
 
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#3
Your dealer is right about the hole acting as a vent. My only concern would be"how much dirt got in there?" You may want to do a couple of quick oil changes with some real cheap dino oil just to make sure you've flushed all the dirt out. Be aware. During break-in you will see all kinds of metal shavings in the oil filter, so don't let this alarm you. It is normal and may take 6 or 7 oil changes to see no more metal shavings. Go ahead and buy a bunch of oil filters now for the break-in. Some dealers have really been rippin' some people on these oil filters. You should be able to find them for around $8 or $9 each. They are re-usable, but you won't want to start re-using them until the metal shavings are about gone. Many others have lost their timing mark plugs and experienced the same "oil on the boot"
phenomenon. Someone, I think it was Patman, mentioned that real metal replacement plugs are available, but I can't remember from where.
The functionality of the stock tires is dependant on the terrain they are being used in. The stock front tire works very well on hard terrain, but not worth a damn on anything else. The stock rear tire isn't too bad. It actually performs okay over a wider range of terrain than the front. You need to post what kind of terrain and/or tracks you will be riding on in order to get good feedback on tire selection.
Coop
 
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#4
If you haven't done it already, yank the snorkel out of the airbox, and remove the snuffer from the muffler. The bike was never intended to run with them in, and does run too hot in stock form. Oh yea, and it's got 1/2 the hp that way too!
 
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#5
Just wondering

I plan on buying either a Wr, or a dr. I am leaning towards the WR, but I have found it very difficult to find reviews on the WR. I am 6' 190, I am worried the WR may not have enough snap for me. I love big bore thumpers but want light weight and awesome suspension. Has anyone had any major complaints about the machine?
 

wayneo426

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#6
No complaints at all.

Absolutely the best bike I've ever owned. Period.
 
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#7
removing

"YZ time that puppy! The was no downside to this free modification for me."
-How do I go about doing this or getting more info on doing this to my WR250F?


"If you haven't done it already, yank the snorkel out of the airbox, and remove the snuffer from the muffler."
-Same question.... how do I do this?

I am 6'1" 200lbs, I will ride a very wide variety of stuff.
'01 WR250F
 

zcookie49

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#8
airbox snorkel

"If you haven't done it already, yank the snorkel out of the airbox, and remove the snuffer from the muffler." - quote
... if the snorkel is the metal screen on the plastic airfilter frame, i wouldnt remove it... there was post on here about 2 months ago, someone didnt have it on their plastic air filter frame, there was a back fire, that caught on fire thru the airbox, catching the seat and all on fire... Im not sure if that is what the snorkel is or not, but just fyi....
 

zcookie49

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#9
5.how critical is the valve adjustment after initial break in ??? (10 hrs. or so)

Hey Z4me, is this valve adjustment something a yokel like me can do with the owners manual or something that is technical and should have a shop look at, just curious, for I havent addressed that area as of yet, and I dont want any repurcusions (if spelled right)
 
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#10
Checking it isn't that hard, adjusting it would be more trouble.
Feeler guages would be enough to test that the camshaft to valve clearance is large enough while the piston sits at TDC on the compression stroke. Typically these have been within specs for those who have tested them. If they are out of adjustment - you would have to refer to the charts provided in the manual to determine which shim you would need to bring the clearance within spec. I would certainly recommend checking it yourself - if you are comfortable with a wrench.

- Sean
 
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#11
wr250f

The timing cover plugs are plastic throw them away and call BRP-web address BRPit.com they make 2 alum plugs for around $35, ask for Jim or Cameron, they also make the tripleclamps-sweet, very sweet. I think the wr250f wks best as follows: change the cam timing to the same as the yzf, take the airbox cover off and change to the yoshimura pipe, they mae a tunable end cap w/ a spark arrester and it includes 2 add'l tips to quiet it to your liking. With the cam timing changed it will work much better but still has good low end due to the heavier flywheel than the 250 f, I wouls also recommend that the acerbis 3.2 gal tank(much slimmer) and the yzf seat.I also have a 250f for moto and wanted to make the wrf as close to the yzf as possible so I do not have to adapt much for eather mount! Just my thoughts!:cool:
 
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#12
wr250f

The timing cover plugs are plastic throw them away and call BRP-web address BRPit.com they make 2 alum plugs for around $35, ask for Jim or Cameron, they also make the tripleclamps-sweet, very sweet. I think the wr250f wks best as follows: change the cam timing to the same as the yzf, take the airbox cover off and change to the yoshimura pipe, they make a tunable end cap w/ a spark arrester and it includes 2 add'l tips to quiet it to your liking. With the cam timing changed it will work much better but still has good low end due to the heavier flywheel than the 250 f, I would also recommend that the acerbis 3.2 gal tank(much slimmer) and the yzf seat.I also have a 250f for moto and wanted to make the wrf as close to the yzf as possible so I do not have to adapt much for eather mount! Just my thoughts!:cool:
 
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#13
wr250f mods summary

the snorkel is not the anti-backfire screen behind the air filter. on usa WR's, at least, underneath the seat there is 1) a "cover" with a square cutout screwed to the top of the airbox and 2) a flanged square "tube" screwed to the cutout of the aforementioned cover. the "snorkel" refers to the flanged tube; but most people, when they say "remove the snorkel", they mean remove the flanged tube AND the cover. this is done in one step by removing the four screws that hold the cover to the airbox. doing so lets you fully see the air filter mounted in it's glory, a la the yz250f. i second the opinion of *NOT* removing the screen behind the air filter, that could lead to trouble (like an airbox fire in at least one case) and besides it's not hurting power. one thing you probably want to do when you remove the airbox cover and snorkel is put on the "rain flap" that came with your bike's kit; that flap will keep water from running down your gas tank and into your airbox. i had to cut mine out a little bit -- i think it was designed for the yz250f and the wr has some additional stuff in the way (e.g. rear coolant reservoir hose and tail light wiring harness) -- but it will fit.

for reviews on the wr250f, check the last couple of months of dirt bike magazine etc. (april has a full review) , and online search the archives at www.motorcycledaily.com. ah heck, here you go:
http://www.motorcycledaily.com/03feb01wr250freview1.html
http://www.motorcycledaily.com/04march01wr250freview2.html

for other mods:
1) throttle stop--
all usa wr's come with a throttle stop that limits the carb slide opening, and therefore limits engine power (this is evidently done to meet some noise or emissions spec). wr400f/426f owners know all about this. wr250f owners have to learn. basically the fix consists of cutting off a couple of mm of the throttle stop, so that the length matches the yz250f stop. a couple of months ago i did a "how-to" write up on the throttle stop mod, see
http://www.thumpertalk.com/ubb/Forum10/HTML/000207.html
and scroll about halfway down to my post of 03/09/2001.

2) exhaust baffle--
the stock exhaust baffle is very restrictive, leading to power loss (but to give it some credit the stock baffle also *very* quiet). removing the stock baffle restores power but the sound then assaults your and others eardrums pretty bad-- uncorked it's louder than a yz250f. there is a middle ground however, i.e. good flow plus less noise --> the baffle i'm using is the "Vortip" replacement insert from
http://www.finelinesuspension.com/
originally it was designed for the wr400/wr426 but it fits the wr250f just right. much less backpressure (=more power) than the stock insert and way way less noise than wide open. it takes 20 seconds to remove the old restrictive baffle and 20 more seconds to put the Vortip in. just 1 bolt on the tailpipe is all.

3) handguards--
so far the only other major mod that i have done is the addition of some "real men's aluminum"(tm) bark busters (actually cyrca pro bends from yamaha GYT-R, including the triple clamp mounts), read up at
http://www.thumpertalk.com/ubb/Forum10/HTML/000361.html
and check the notes at
http://www.thumpertalk.com/ubb/Forum10/HTML/000458.html

4) oil--
as for the oil, i too have an '01 wr250f, rec'd in february. i used yamalube 4 (dinosaur oil) for the first two oil changes, then i did one change with yamalube 4R (semi synthetic), and then i settled on mobil 1 15w50 full synth (non-EC, the RED cap). why this trip? i don't know. i figured i'd seat the engine internals with dino oil, then migrate to semi-synth, then feed it pure synth. i have no technical rationale for this except that it seemed like a good idea. i know some people run dino oil forever (castrol makes good fossil stuff) and others who run synthetic from day one (amsoil, red line, or mobil etc). my take is that the frequency of oil changes is far more important than the marginal differences in oil quality. a couple of guys i know have been racing their wr400f's with mobil 1 for a couple of years now and haven't had problems.

5) yzf timing--
soon to come, everyone seems to like it and it appears that it can be done in an hour so no big deal there. check out
http://www.thumpertalk.com/ubb/Forum10/HTML/000457.html
for some info from folks who have already done it. in addition, one of the dirt bike rags had a couple of photos on the process, someone can tell you which mag and which issue.

the wrooster
 
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#14
what about starting??

I'm STILL hearing horror stories about the WR being a hard starter compared to the YZF....even after jetting/timing changes. True or false???
 
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#15
No problems here.
1 kick most of the time - sometimes as much as three.
Dumped it is another story - but so is the YZF.

- Sean