01cr250 shim stack (picture attached)

[tmoney]

Jeremy & folks,
I have to run my forks all the way soft on the trails that I ride and they are still not "plush" like my friends 250f (day and night differenc). I already run 43kg springs and ultra light oil and that has helped alot but not enough. I'd like to post my picture for reference but cannot figure that out..any help on this too?
Two basic questions
1) How should I run my shim stack if I want to stay with the stock parts?
2) What is generally the main culprit for stiction. Mine has tons. I am also replacing the two main busings that go between the inner and outer tube which I did notice to have some play between them.
thanks.???

 

[tmoney]

Folks,
Its midnight and I am tired,,,should have mentioned, I have the shims laid out which is what I'd like to show via an attached picture and ask for guidance on...Anyone know how to attach a picture,? to me its not all that clear.

 

[marcusgunby]

I think changing the bushes is the right way to look into stiction problems-also dont forget to check for fork alignment problem-lots of previous posts on this problem.

On the shim stacks you are not likely to get someone to give you a tried and tested stack.Others have modified stacks themselves and asked for guidance on high speed/low speed damping problems-this is asking a fair bit of the good members of this board but your asking for a handout-dont take this personally as it would be a similar answer to any member.This forum is about member wanting to gain knowledge.A shim stack handout wont teach anything.

 

[JTT]

tmoney, you will need to significantly reduce the HSC in order to make it ridable in the woods. Don't be too afraid to make fairly dramatic changes to the base valve stack, as you can change them easily, even at the track.

You will get better responses if you post "what you think you should change" and allow those "in the know" to comment on your suggested changes. There are some very bright people hanging around here (present company excluded :) ) that can teach you a lot, if you let them. Marcus may drive on the wrong side of the road, but he knows his suspension ;)

 

[tmoney]

JTT, Marcus,
Thanks for the replies,,,,catch 22...I don't know what to suggest because I have never made these adjustments before...simply looking for a good starting point based on what others may already know....I am able to do the work,,, just not knowledgeable on which way to adjust the base valve stack.
Regards...

 

[bclapham]

Originally posted by JTT
Marcus may drive on the wrong side of the road, but he knows his suspension ;)

i have witnessed that driving, and i still have the mental scars! :thumb: and i am used to driving on the wrong side! :p

 

[James]

Originally posted by JTT
Don't be too afraid to make fairly dramatic changes to the base valve stack, as you can change them easily, even at the track.

I am assuming you mean popping the cap without taking the wheel/forks off (correct me if I'm wrong). Just curious, how do you get the damper properly filled and bled without affecting the outer chamber oil level?

If I'm wrong, maybe describe your trackside procedure if you don't mind...this would be extremely useful to me.

Thanks Much JTT!!

 

[JTT]

James, keep in mind this is no substitute for doing it the "right way" with complete disassembly, but does let you make quick and easy changes to get yourself into the right ballpark.

Basically, you remove the bars, and bar clamps, then loosen the top triple clamp bolts.  Simply loosen the top cap...not the 50mm cartridge nut, the base valve only (silver one with the clicker in it).  You can remove this without greatly effecting the oil level in the cartridge, if you are careful.  You will usually have to compress the fork some after they are unthreaded in order to get hold of them to pull them out.  There will be significant vacuum created, as these are sealed, so be careful.  Keep steady pressure on them and ease them up (it won't be easy :scream: , taking care not to let them fly across the room when the vacuum finally "gives it up".  Once out, make shim changes and reinstall. 

As I said, once you get the shim stack to where you are happy, I would suggest a total disassembly and rebleed of the cartridge, as you can create a small air pocket at the top of the cartridge if you loose enough oil.  It's a quick and dirty adjustment that I am sure Jer and others are cringing at, but does work, at least for testing purposes. ;)

 

[bclapham]

i was under the impression that you flip the bike upsidedown and remove the base valve with an impact wrench, then ajust the shims on the base valve and reassaemble? please correct me if i am wrong

 

[James]

2000-2003 CRs have the base valve and compression adjuster up top.

The separate chamber in teh damper damper has a fixed fluid capacity with a one way bleed into the outer chamber. It's this one way bleed that would make topping off the fluid when changing valving using JTTs method a concern.

What would be great is if that inner chamber would bleed through the top of the cap...provided it wouldn't squirt you in the eye while riding for some odd reason.

 

[JTT]

Originally posted by bclapham
i was under the impression that you flip the bike upsidedown and remove the base valve with an impact wrench, then ajust the shims on the base valve and reassaemble? please correct me if i am wrong

...only on "the competition's" ....The glory that is "Showa Twin Chambers" :thumb:

James, if you are concerned about the oil level, simply add a small amount to the chamber before reinstalling the basevalves.  As you said, this will simply bleed through into the outer chamber, and the volume will be so small that it will not be greatly significant.  But you are right, this is the one catch ;)