09 TTR125L not getting gas

[knight rider]

cleaned the carb and jets, new fuel, new spark plug. wont idle!

if i place my palm over the intake it will run as long as i allow a small amount of air in. if i remove my hand it will cut off. WTH?

 

[Patman]

Why did you clean the carb to begin with, was it doing this?
Did you look at the how to that is at the top of this forum?
Sounds like your "cleaning" may have blocked a passage(s) and /or you have the float level / needle valve screwed up, and /or your choke assy needs a looking at.

 

[knight rider]

Why did you clean the carb to begin with, was it doing this?
Did you look at the how to that is at the top of this forum?
Sounds like your "cleaning" may have blocked a passage(s) and /or you have the float level / needle valve screwed up, and /or your choke assy needs a looking at.

I cleaned it because it had been sitting for a bit and after changing the fuel it would not start to begin with. That lead me to clean the carb abd the jets to make sure there was no gunk in there, that was what I had found to do on other threads.

I am not sure what you mean by the choke assy needs looking at, it is one piece so it is either in or out. I will give it a looking at though to make sure.

 

[_JOE_]

Sounds like a restricted pilot circuit to me.

My wifes ttr125 is really finicky about old fuel in the bowl. When you're done riding turn the gas off and run it dry and it'll start much easier next time you try to start it. If you leave the gas on it takes for ever to get it to run.

The choke plungers are notorious for corroding in the bore on the carb. A little water proof grease on the plunger will help prevent this. It's pretty obvious if it's sticking, it usually get's stuck in the on position as the spring can't push it closed. And this won't make it hard to start.....

Have you tried adjusting the fuel screw? Our ttr had a plug over the fuel screw, you have to drill it out. Go out a half turn or so to make it a bit richer. You'll have to adjust the idle too. Once you get it figured out it'll be pretty easy to get started. Ours starts in a few kicks even if it's 20 degrees out. I removed the air box snorkel and went up a size on the pilot and main jets.

 

[knight rider]

Sounds like a restricted pilot circuit to me.

My wifes ttr125 is really finicky about old fuel in the bowl. When you're done riding turn the gas off and run it dry and it'll start much easier next time you try to start it. If you leave the gas on it takes for ever to get it to run.

The choke plungers are notorious for corroding in the bore on the carb. A little water proof grease on the plunger will help prevent this. It's pretty obvious if it's sticking, it usually get's stuck in the on position as the spring can't push it closed. And this won't make it hard to start.....

Have you tried adjusting the fuel screw? Our ttr had a plug over the fuel screw, you have to drill it out. Go out a half turn or so to make it a bit richer. You'll have to adjust the idle too. Once you get it figured out it'll be pretty easy to get started. Ours starts in a few kicks even if it's 20 degrees out. I removed the air box snorkel and went up a size on the pilot and main jets.

my screw is plugged also. I will drill it out today and see what the outcome is.

 

[knight rider]

my screw is plugged also. I will drill it out today and see what the outcome is.

no go on playing with the idle screw.

 

[Patman]

Takie it apart and re-clean it with a very close eye on each & every piece. Most people think if they squire some cleaner on the assembled parts it all sort of works out. Go look at an exploded parts diagram of your carb and THAT is what it should look like as you clean it. If you don't feel comfortable taking it to that level take it to somebody that does. While you are taking it to that point you will have no choice but to look at the choke assembly and see if it is corroded or gummed up. Then also make sure you can see through each jet, make sure compressed air blows through each passage, make sure the float assy is properly adjusted. You may have cleaned things to the point where it looks clean but the problem is now in a not visible location ot it never was and all you did is make what you see look clean which generally doesn't fix anything.

 

[knight rider]

Takie it apart and re-clean it with a very close eye on each & every piece. Most people think if they squire some cleaner on the assembled parts it all sort of works out. Go look at an exploded parts diagram of your carb and THAT is what it should look like as you clean it. If you don't feel comfortable taking it to that level take it to somebody that does. While you are taking it to that point you will have no choice but to look at the choke assembly and see if it is corroded or gummed up. Then also make sure you can see through each jet, make sure compressed air blows through each passage, make sure the float assy is properly adjusted. You may have cleaned things to the point where it looks clean but the problem is now in a not visible location ot it never was and all you did is make what you see look clean which generally doesn't fix anything.

no kidding, i have cleaned it about 10 times in the last 3 weeks with the manuel in hand. did the horsehair through the jest, and air through every hole i seen. made sure that the carb to the engine hose is not cracked and tight. i am to the point where i am going to just buy another damn carb.

 

[Matt90GT]

first things first.

have you inspected the valve clearances? If not stop and do that NOW!

Second the TTRs are so lean because of the EPA, you need to rejet them. if the specs are the same as the older ones, open the airbox, 17.5 pilot and 110 main. that will help it run like it should.