13 to 12 - sprocket change

W

wallasaki

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May 23, 2002

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• Jul 20, 2003

• #1

Just sharing out loud:

Decided to try the 13 tooth for the day to see if there was a big difference(48 back). As I read earlier, you could switch front sprockets to change riding results w/ out major chain damage. Anyway, I couldn't wait to get home and put the 12 back on. I stalled in places where I used to "walk" over, and the hills were more difficult to traverse. Thought I needed a tune up or something - just the sprocket.

On another note, can you "flip" the sprocket when putting back on? Can you put it on so the unworn side pulls the chain?

And another note, do any of you run your needle on the last clip(top).

later

 

B

BRush

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• Jul 20, 2003

• #2

Originally posted by wallasaki
On another note, can you "flip" the sprocket when putting back on? Can you put it on so the unworn side pulls the chain?

Click to expand...

You never want to do that. Flipping a hooked sprocket, will cause teeth to fail in short order.

 

Jaybird

Apprentice Goon

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• Jul 21, 2003

• #3

If you place a new chain on when you flip it it would not be as bad, however a badidea in any instance. Flipping it over with the same chain will not only ruin the sprocket fast, but it will trash the chain much faster than it would have otherwise. You are putting a new pitch against a stetched pitch chain when you do this.
If there is any sort of visible deforming of your sprocket teeth, your chain and sprocket set is completely worn out and needs to be changed immediately.
The biggest reason you are seeing hooking on your CS sprocket is becasue it is too small. You'd be better off changing the rear and keeping the 13t.
You aleready need a new rear and a new chain, why not make it so it will last longer than it did with the 12?
You made a move in the correct direction...stay on that path.

 

CaptainObvious

Formally known as RV6Junkie

Damn Yankees

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• Jul 21, 2003

• #4

I agree with Jaybird, stick with the 13T c/s sprocket; it's much easier on your chain.

You said that you like the 12/48 gearing; that's a final drive ratio of 4:1. To obtain the same gearing with a 13 c/s sprocket you'd need a 52 on the rear. That's a large rear sprocket so when you replace your chain you might want an extra link or to to keep the wheelbase long. This way you can keep the sprocket out of the chain guide.

 

M

MX175

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• Jul 21, 2003

• #5

Yes, do not hesitate to use the top clip on your needle. I end up using it often.

 

Zerotact

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Dec 10, 2002

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• Jul 21, 2003

• #6

I too have my needle in the top position, as it has been in the high 90's.
If it drops into the low 80's high 70's I'll move the clip down one.

 

Jaybird

Apprentice Goon

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• Jul 21, 2003

• #7

You guys using your needle clip for a master link too?

LOL.....:)

 

W

wallasaki

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May 23, 2002

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• Jul 21, 2003

• Thread starter
• #8

Thanks for the info. Reason I was asking about the top clip is the heat/high temp is running the bike rich - will go to the top clip to see if it helps. My rk oring chain seems ok, no I didn't "flip" the front , I was just wondering - but the response does make sense. Chain has never stretched since I put it on w/ my 12/48 combo - will keep an eye and use all given info towards a new setup.

 

J

JasonWho

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Apr 10, 2002

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• Jul 22, 2003

• #9

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Last edited: Sep 18, 2004

CaptainObvious

Formally known as RV6Junkie

Damn Yankees

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• Jul 22, 2003

• #10

Because in order to get the above mentioned 4:1 gear ratio you'd need a 56t or 60t rear!. Good luck running that!

 

C

canyncarvr

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• Jul 22, 2003

• #11

FFR, the 'top' clip position is not the last, it's the first (#1).

Lessee....running the 'best' CSS for a 520 chain (17T), you would only need...uh....(ummm 4 x 17 =..uh..) 68 tooths by my math.

;)

Maybe you could just wrap the chain around the tire?

'I doan need no steenking chain guide! The sprockets are only 1/2" apart!!'

 

J

JasonWho

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Apr 10, 2002

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• Jul 22, 2003

• #12

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Last edited: Sep 18, 2004

D

dirt bike dave

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May 3, 2000

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• Jul 22, 2003

• #13

On most bikes, if you run more than a +1 countershaft sprocket larger than stock, you will not be able to use the metal 1/4 circle 'case saver' that fits under the sprocket guard.   If you throw a chain without the case saver on the bike, you are looking at a major repair bill. 

Even if you do away with the 'case saver', you probably can't fit anymore than a +2 or +3 before the chain starts rubbing on the ignition cover/side case.  Those 17 tooth sprockets you see in the catalogs might fit the KDX countershaft splines, but I bet they won't clear the ignition side cover.

 

 

J

JasonWho

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Apr 10, 2002

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• Jul 23, 2003

• #14

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Last edited: Sep 18, 2004

C

canyncarvr

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• Jul 24, 2003

• #15

The comment about the 17t CSS came from an earlier thread where it was noted that the smallest sprocket you could run with no wear issues due to 'too small' was a 17...according to somebody.

Certainly attempting to run one would be kinda stoopid. I wouldn't suppose it would fit.