Hello,
I don't think it really matters if you swap the whole carb, or just change the guts. You can swing the rear subframe up and expose the shock, and pull the carb from the right side of the shock. It is still a pain but is possible.
I have a 96 also, I put on an XR's Only competition exhaust and a UNI filter with the snorkel removed from the airbox. Xr's Only recommended 160/60 jets, down from 162/62 stock (I'm at sea level) and she responded well. It will still bog if you whack open the throttle from idle, but througout the rest of the rpm range she pulls crisp and clean. I'm also considering the dual tapered needle and slide, however, I hear that no matter what you do to the stock carb, it still bites. In the long run, I think I'm gonna try a Mikuni pumper carb. Supposedly, it's like night and day the difference it makes. Good luck and keep on thumping.