2000 KX 250 Forks, how to make them work?

KX'er

Member
Oct 12, 2000
140
0
I have a 2000 KX 250 with the EG 310 kit (very nice). I have the motor pretty much dialed in, but the suspension is giving me headaches.. The shock is ok, as I don't really have problems with that. Mostly my complaints are the thing will not turn to save its life and the forks are real harsh... Here is what I have done so far:

Set race sag to about 95mm (I couldn't adjust the shock with the subframe on so I removed it, and I wasn't wearing my gear). Is there a way to adjust the sag with the bike in one piece? I couldn't fit the wrench in there...

Raised forks 5mm in triple clamps.

The forks seem to bottom very easily, but if I stiffen the compression the bike becomes unstable at higher speeds.

The bike seems to bounce after bottoming.. is this supposed to happen?

If any of you found something that works with this bike let me know!
 

Jeff Howe

Member
Apr 19, 2000
456
1
Try changing the oil in them first, but make sure you clean them out GOOD or your wasting your time with that as well. Sounds to me like your oil is baked if you have not changed it recently. Even though I think the KX forks need serious help, a simple oil change might make things better for you.
 

KX'er

Member
Oct 12, 2000
140
0
I agree that the oil is probably well overdue for a change since it has never been done :eek: , but I don't really have the money nor trust many people to do it correctly. I would like to do it myself, but not really sure since I have never worked on suspension before. How difficult is it? What tools do I need? What cost would I be looking at (tools, oil, etc) if I did do it myself?

What exactly do you mean by needing serious help? I really think I am to the point that my suspension is really holding me back since I can get on my buddies bikes and ride much better and with more confidence.... Unfortuneately I am on a pretty tight budget, so if anyone can come up with some economical upgrades/fixes I would really appriciate it!
 

Rcannon

~SPONSOR~
Nov 17, 2001
1,886
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Shocknut, what is the best way to clean forks? Is it possible to do this without taking them apart?
 

bigred455

"LET'S JUST RIDE"
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Sep 12, 2000
782
0
Yes you can adjust the preload with it all together,I use a socket extension and a hammer.I have a 00 kx250,I weigh 185 .First off change that oil get a manual the kayaba's are pretty simple.The standard oil height is 90mm I am running a little higher 80mm to fight bottoming.Here is my setting .43 springs, 6 on the compression and I am flirting around with 13- 15 on the rebound If I set the compression on 8 they are plush for me,but It does not like over jumping or g-outs.That is why I am running in at six With 6 the small choppy stuff it is harsher,but I take it out on the rebound.I still don't like how it corners though I am very aggressive in the corners,but the front wants to knife in on me.I tried pulling the tubes down from 5mm to flush,but the front felt dead.Change that oil and fit yourself with some springs,then start gone crazy on the clickers. :thumb:
 

Jeff Howe

Member
Apr 19, 2000
456
1
There is only one way to get them clean, and that's to tear them down. People advertising flush oil changes are only wasting your time and money. There is little value in that in my opinion. Once oil becomes contaminated it just multiplies on itself and degrades in a hurry, therefore dumping in clean oil and mixing with whatever amount of filth left in there is shortening your fluids life dramatically. You just cannot clean them out how you should without taking them apart.

What I mean by needing serious help is that they need a revalve to really work "good". Budget fixes are not going to replace that. Ask Marcus about removing the bladder and it's effects. Maybe thats something you might like to try as well.
 

marcusgunby

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jan 9, 2000
6,450
2
Ahh the bladder removal trick-yes a good economical mod-the latest way i want to do this is to remove the seal ring on the outside of the damper assembly-if we removed the Restrictive barrier (large washer under the fork springs)it can stop the springs from spinning when they compress-not good.To remove the bladder you need to pull up the bottom collor then it has a small ring thats pulls down.

The mod works well at helping on large type braking bumps and sharp edge bumps.

The main problem with the KX fork is it (like the CR125) has no real midvalve lift.
 
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KX'er

Member
Oct 12, 2000
140
0
I have a manual, but it looks kinda confusing.. I'm sure I can figure it out when I get it all apart. What tools will I need?

And how about the shock? How often does it need to be serviced? I think I have the engine stuff down, time to learn suspension... Thanks for the help!
 
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