Can anyone give me some details as to how to go about replacing my clutch on my 01 cr 125? I purchased an ebc clutch kit and gasket, I have drained all trans fluid, I do not have a manual at this time, but I still want to replace this asap, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks :ride:
Move the rear brake pedal out of the way by removing the pivot capscrew. Remove the 5 cover capscrews. Loosen the 5 clutch spring capscrews in a crisscross pattern. Remove the pressure plate. Remove the lifter and lifter rod. Reove the clutch pack (8 disks & 7 plates). I assume you have new springs? If not measure the old ones and min length is 35.2mm. I'd throw them and go new. Soak the new clutch pack in transmission oil, make sure all disks and plates are coated. I use Honda 85W synthetic. Installation is reverse. Put a little assembly lube on the clutch lifter rod before you install it in the shaft. Make sure the clutch pack is 8 friction disks with one on front and one in back and 7 steel disks alternating between them. Torque the clutch capscrews in a crisscross pattern to 7ftlbs or 84inlbs (same thing). You should replace the oring in the cover with a new one. Replace the cover and torque the capcrews to 7ftlbs or 84inlbs. Fill the oil up till it weeps out the oil check bolt. Normally after one or two rides I change the oil again.
When I change the oil after the first or second ride I don't use the check bolt for level. I just add the recommended amount which is 19 oz, you do the math. You will need to check your clutch cable adjustment also. Probably want to get a shop manual since there are scores of other things you'll need to do at some point.
Dont know if you plan to replace all the plates , but if the plain plates are oem , they are made of aluminium , and will probably be the ones that are worn ...
You can get steel plates from the aftermarket , they last quite a bit longer , and the oil wont be filled with debris from the alu plates.