2001 Xr250
- Thread starter jsmith811
- Start date
xrsforever
Member
- Nov 2, 2000
- 249
- 0
At the minimum,Get a Summers Racing Fork Brace($199) because your front forks flex too much and are harsh over the bumps Set you sag on the rear. ($0) Get an aftermarket airfilter(NoToil,Uni orTwin Air,$20). Take the snorkel out from under the seat so your bike can breath better,$0. You just pry it out .Buy a Thumper Racing exhaust insert($79).Go up two on the pilot and main jets.($7)Change you oil as often as possible(every race or 100-200 trail miles)So for about $300 it becomes a fun trail bike.
As your skill increases, or you want to do some enduros or cross country,look into aftermarket pipes by Big Gun,XR's Only,or FMF($229-300) Look at suspension work(Scotts,MX Tech,Thumper,Race Tech,Precision Concepts)To do front and back suspension you are looking at about $500.(the suspension work I believe is your biggest bang for the buck and the most ignored part of upgrading a bike)A big bore kit of 280cc,300 or 320cc can be done with a Mikuni 34mm carb. A stainless steel oil filter(Scotts or Thumper $ 65),Steering stableizer(300-500$),handlebars (Tag,Renthal,Moose $ 77-100)Better tires(Dunlops 756's,755's.Michlin S12's,These last few modifications will get the little XR off the porch and be competitive with the big boys !
:cool: :cool: :cool:
As your skill increases, or you want to do some enduros or cross country,look into aftermarket pipes by Big Gun,XR's Only,or FMF($229-300) Look at suspension work(Scotts,MX Tech,Thumper,Race Tech,Precision Concepts)To do front and back suspension you are looking at about $500.(the suspension work I believe is your biggest bang for the buck and the most ignored part of upgrading a bike)A big bore kit of 280cc,300 or 320cc can be done with a Mikuni 34mm carb. A stainless steel oil filter(Scotts or Thumper $ 65),Steering stableizer(300-500$),handlebars (Tag,Renthal,Moose $ 77-100)Better tires(Dunlops 756's,755's.Michlin S12's,These last few modifications will get the little XR off the porch and be competitive with the big boys !
:cool: :cool: :cool:
- Thread starter
- #4
I already have the biggest jetting headache in the business, the CR250 2001. If I have to rejet a XR250, I may not get one. I have done some racing on my CR, now I'm just looking to do some Long trail rides with a friend who is also getting a XR250. Surely the jetting is OK stock. 4 strokes don't fowl plugs, do they?
- Nov 22, 2000
- 4,392
- 0
Definitely do the airbox mod first. My XR250 came without a baffle, and it was loud, but not YZ loud. The airbox mod made a noticeable improvement. I never touched the jetting.
Since you live in the Southeast, the next thing you should do is install a set of Dunlop 752s or Michelin S-12s. I would tackle gearing at the same time. Like John K said, XRs are geared WAAY too high from the factory. Try going up one tooth on the C/S sprocket, or up three or four on the rear.
These mods alone make the XR a great little trail bike. I left the suspension alone on mine. I like my woods bikes soft--like my women.:)
Since you live in the Southeast, the next thing you should do is install a set of Dunlop 752s or Michelin S-12s. I would tackle gearing at the same time. Like John K said, XRs are geared WAAY too high from the factory. Try going up one tooth on the C/S sprocket, or up three or four on the rear.
These mods alone make the XR a great little trail bike. I left the suspension alone on mine. I like my woods bikes soft--like my women.:)
Last edited:
DualSportr
Member
- Aug 22, 2000
- 527
- 0
Definitely do the Thumper Racing muffler insert -- for a stock displacement XR, it's as much hp increase as a complete aftermarket exhaust.
I personally like the plush suspension of the stock XR250, it fits the power delivery, and it really is tuneable, which the older XR's definitely WEREN'T!
The Summers racing fork brace is a must if you do lots of whoops and fast open stuff - for tight trails I don't notice the difference as much (just my opinion).
I ride anywhere from 600' to 8,000' and did not have to re-jet with the Thumper Racing insert and the snorkle removed. The stock filter on the newer XR's actually flows well, and you might want to keep it.
As far as jetting goes, yes, four strokes can foul plugs - but only if the jetting is too rich (just like two strokes). With an increase in airflow (airbox mod and muffler mod) more fuel may be required, or you will overheat/lean seize the beast (just like a two stroke). This is just basic maintenance stuff which you would have to do with ANY bike you purchase.
That said, on most of the 2001 XR250's I have come in contact with, the stock jetting is okay after the mod's we've mentioned. I have seen two XR250's which required larger pilot jets. Both of these were running right at sea level in humid conditions.
These are cool, fun trail bikes. Keep in mind that Dirt Bike (or was it Dirt Rider?) shootout a few months ago rated the XR250 over the WR250 for best trail machine :)
I personally like the plush suspension of the stock XR250, it fits the power delivery, and it really is tuneable, which the older XR's definitely WEREN'T!
The Summers racing fork brace is a must if you do lots of whoops and fast open stuff - for tight trails I don't notice the difference as much (just my opinion).
I ride anywhere from 600' to 8,000' and did not have to re-jet with the Thumper Racing insert and the snorkle removed. The stock filter on the newer XR's actually flows well, and you might want to keep it.
As far as jetting goes, yes, four strokes can foul plugs - but only if the jetting is too rich (just like two strokes). With an increase in airflow (airbox mod and muffler mod) more fuel may be required, or you will overheat/lean seize the beast (just like a two stroke). This is just basic maintenance stuff which you would have to do with ANY bike you purchase.
That said, on most of the 2001 XR250's I have come in contact with, the stock jetting is okay after the mod's we've mentioned. I have seen two XR250's which required larger pilot jets. Both of these were running right at sea level in humid conditions.
These are cool, fun trail bikes. Keep in mind that Dirt Bike (or was it Dirt Rider?) shootout a few months ago rated the XR250 over the WR250 for best trail machine :)
TexKDX
~SPONSOR~
- Aug 8, 1999
- 747
- 0
The stock XR will benefit from the basic breathing mods, all $0 efforts, and can be run with the stock jetting around sea level up to 5k feet no problem. The $0 mods are:
- pull the snorkel out with a pair of pliers from under the seat
- cut the screen out of the stock air filter basket with a utility knife
- pull the stock baffle out of the muffler - Dirt bike spot welded a steel rod in then beat it out with a hammer
- pull the head pipe off and grind the head flange welds down with a dremel or carbide cutter in a hand drill
Unless you buy a closed-course MX bike or a KTM, you can't get away from these types of mods. Even the WR426/250 needs these types of mods.
The stock carb on the little XR is easy to get to for jetting changes, unlike the carb on the yamaha 250 and 426.
Gary Hazel at Thumper sells the 34mm pumper carb but says it is of marginal use with the stock cam. Cam changes on the XR create their own problems and are usually judged as not needed if you want a good reliable bike. It might make sense to have te 34mm on a stroker/big bore/hot cam/ported head bike, but for anything less than that throttle response will suffer with the larger carb bore over a rejetted stocker.
With just the free mods listed above, my '99 has excellent throttle response and mid-range power. It is also hard to stall and has great lugability. A friend rode it yesterday and had recently rode a 400. He disliked the 400's ergos, weight, and height, but liked the little 250.
I've got just 20 miles on mine in the sloppiest conditions I've ridden in years. The bike flat handles, has great ergos and brakes, and puts the power to the ground. I am gonna like this bike. It will do everything my street legal wr400 did but with comfort and less weight, except for the big rush of power on top I rarely used.
- pull the snorkel out with a pair of pliers from under the seat
- cut the screen out of the stock air filter basket with a utility knife
- pull the stock baffle out of the muffler - Dirt bike spot welded a steel rod in then beat it out with a hammer
- pull the head pipe off and grind the head flange welds down with a dremel or carbide cutter in a hand drill
Unless you buy a closed-course MX bike or a KTM, you can't get away from these types of mods. Even the WR426/250 needs these types of mods.
The stock carb on the little XR is easy to get to for jetting changes, unlike the carb on the yamaha 250 and 426.
Gary Hazel at Thumper sells the 34mm pumper carb but says it is of marginal use with the stock cam. Cam changes on the XR create their own problems and are usually judged as not needed if you want a good reliable bike. It might make sense to have te 34mm on a stroker/big bore/hot cam/ported head bike, but for anything less than that throttle response will suffer with the larger carb bore over a rejetted stocker.
With just the free mods listed above, my '99 has excellent throttle response and mid-range power. It is also hard to stall and has great lugability. A friend rode it yesterday and had recently rode a 400. He disliked the 400's ergos, weight, and height, but liked the little 250.
I've got just 20 miles on mine in the sloppiest conditions I've ridden in years. The bike flat handles, has great ergos and brakes, and puts the power to the ground. I am gonna like this bike. It will do everything my street legal wr400 did but with comfort and less weight, except for the big rush of power on top I rarely used.
Rodzilla
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jul 21, 1999
- 615
- 0
If you're looking at the Thumper insert, also look at the "Vortip" it's about the same price as the thumper unit, if I remember correctly the Thumper unit needs to be repaccked periodically. The Vortip does not use packing to dampen sound, just unequal length tubes. Baja designs sells them
Goes on in about two minutes, I love mine on my XR400
I'm taking a different tack from Tex on the filter screen though, I'm of the mind to leave it in as is Scott Summers, he says removing it is not needed and that it changes the airflow in a negative way. just my opinion.
Rod
Goes on in about two minutes, I love mine on my XR400
I'm taking a different tack from Tex on the filter screen though, I'm of the mind to leave it in as is Scott Summers, he says removing it is not needed and that it changes the airflow in a negative way. just my opinion.
Rod
Last edited:
Four strokes don't foul plugs? Just ask someone with a YZ/WR400.....
My '99 WR400 has never fouled a plug but I also had to spend some time getting the jetting right so I could start it in my driveway. My wife's '92 XR250R is the world's greatest trialbike - might have to buy her a new one and keep the '92 as a 3rd bike.
Brian
My '99 WR400 has never fouled a plug but I also had to spend some time getting the jetting right so I could start it in my driveway. My wife's '92 XR250R is the world's greatest trialbike - might have to buy her a new one and keep the '92 as a 3rd bike.
Brian
Before you mod anything, just ride it and get used to it.
If you want to mod it later, do the mods which address the areas
you feel need attention. Otherwise, you run the risk of goofing
up a bike which may already be perfect for you.
Also, make your changes one at a time, so you know what effect each
has. Too many changes at once, and you may find yourself with problems
and have trouble figuring out which mod created them.
XRs are fine bikes, right off the showroom floor. You won't beat YZ426's
or CR250s in drag races, but you can have a blast on them just as they are.
HammerXR
If you want to mod it later, do the mods which address the areas
you feel need attention. Otherwise, you run the risk of goofing
up a bike which may already be perfect for you.
Also, make your changes one at a time, so you know what effect each
has. Too many changes at once, and you may find yourself with problems
and have trouble figuring out which mod created them.
XRs are fine bikes, right off the showroom floor. You won't beat YZ426's
or CR250s in drag races, but you can have a blast on them just as they are.
HammerXR
TexKDX
~SPONSOR~
- Aug 8, 1999
- 747
- 0
Hammer, I respect your opinion but don't share it.
First, I never just go ride a bike when I get it, new or otherwise. It gets a weeks worth of evenings going over it. Lots of threads have been written here on the problems many bikes have from the dealer prep process. Not to mention righting the wrongs caused by a previous owner on a used bike.
Second, when a bike come purposely restricted from the manufacturer it does not perform up to its ridability potential. Even if you are not after every last fraction of horsepower available (which an adult on an XR250 probably needs), the bike's throttle response will be below its potential.
Did you know the XR250's rear shock comes with the compression set at full hard? And the forks one click from full hard? Both need to be backed off 5 clicks before the bike is ridden unless you like bouncing off rocks and roots.
JMO,
First, I never just go ride a bike when I get it, new or otherwise. It gets a weeks worth of evenings going over it. Lots of threads have been written here on the problems many bikes have from the dealer prep process. Not to mention righting the wrongs caused by a previous owner on a used bike.
Second, when a bike come purposely restricted from the manufacturer it does not perform up to its ridability potential. Even if you are not after every last fraction of horsepower available (which an adult on an XR250 probably needs), the bike's throttle response will be below its potential.
Did you know the XR250's rear shock comes with the compression set at full hard? And the forks one click from full hard? Both need to be backed off 5 clicks before the bike is ridden unless you like bouncing off rocks and roots.
JMO,
xrsforever
Member
- Nov 2, 2000
- 249
- 0
Ditto with Tex's opinion.It is always a good ideal to go over every bike new or used before riding it. Also learning to work on and improve ones bike can be enjoyable.:cool:
You guys are missing my point. I'm not saying that you should assume "all systems are GO" -right from the dealer. Go ahead and make sure that the bike is ready to ride by checking it over, and doing things like adjusting the bars, levers, and sag, etc. Also, of course, make sure the fluids are full, the bolts are tight, tire pressures are right, etc. Any doofus should know to do this.
What I am saying that anytime a rider gets a new bike, the rider should actually ride the bike as it is in stock form, and see what changes they feel are appropriate, before doing a bunch of mods on it.
You guys have to understand that for many many people out there, a stock bike is more than adquate, if not fantastic. A rider should form his own impressions about what areas on his bike might need to be addressed.
(Maybe the bike needs a stiffer fork for the rider's particular style, or bars with a different bend to make it more comfortable.)
To simply take a brand new bike and throw hundreds of dollars of modifications on it, before the bike is ever ridden, is down-right stupid. You guys can follow the advice of every Tom, ****, & Harry out there if you want, but I'll always call it foolish.
Some of the advice on out there makes me wonder if the advice-givers work for the aftermark parts suppliers.
What I am saying that anytime a rider gets a new bike, the rider should actually ride the bike as it is in stock form, and see what changes they feel are appropriate, before doing a bunch of mods on it.
You guys have to understand that for many many people out there, a stock bike is more than adquate, if not fantastic. A rider should form his own impressions about what areas on his bike might need to be addressed.
(Maybe the bike needs a stiffer fork for the rider's particular style, or bars with a different bend to make it more comfortable.)
To simply take a brand new bike and throw hundreds of dollars of modifications on it, before the bike is ever ridden, is down-right stupid. You guys can follow the advice of every Tom, ****, & Harry out there if you want, but I'll always call it foolish.
Some of the advice on out there makes me wonder if the advice-givers work for the aftermark parts suppliers.
TexKDX
~SPONSOR~
- Aug 8, 1999
- 747
- 0
OK, so at this point you are backtracking Hammer from your previous statements and throwing in a little name calling with your doofus reference. Guess what - being new to the sport does not automatically qualify one as a dufus. The XR250 is an entry level bike and attracks new riders. Many a KDX kickstand was lost because the rider assumed it would stay on as attached by the factory. The folks here at DRN like Canadian Dave are nice enough to provide bike-specific info to help our new riders who buy attractive entry level bikes like the KDX as well as experienced riders who don't know the bike's specific bugaboos. No name calling required or appreciated, thank you very much. Those accustomed to wet sump 4 strokes may not know that the oil-in-frame dry sump systems are hard on steering bearing grease. Should we label them as dufuses too? That would make for a pretty large community of XR and YZ/WFR owners.
What I am saying that anytime a rider gets a new bike, the rider should actually ride the bike as it is in stock form, and see what changes they feel are appropriate, before doing a bunch of mods on it.
"Stock Bike" is a pretty broad term, Hammer. Looking at a closed course bike or a offroad prepped bike like a KTM vs. an enduro-type Jap bike that is street legal in other countries, your comments don't hold true. Many bikes that hit our shores have compromises in them as they come out of the crate as a least cost means for the manufacturer to broaden his market for a specific configuration of the bike. The KDX and the XRs are perfect examples. Insurance regs, noise regs, emission regs, etc. that have nothing to do with our US market effect the bikes as they come out of the crate. Max compression damping dialed in may help an XR250 on the streets of Melbourne, but does nothing for the tight trails on the US east coast or mountains. The dual wall pipe on a KDX may make the Italian government happy but has no place on a US-market offroad bike.
To simply take a brand new bike and throw hundreds of dollars of modifications on it, before the bike is ever ridden, is down-right stupid. You guys can follow the advice of every Tom, ****, & Harry out there if you want, but I'll always call it foolish.
Some of the advice on out there makes me wonder if the advice-givers work for the aftermark parts suppliers. [/QUOTE]
Gee, I guess you would not be referring to me with that statement, Hammer, seeing as all the suggestions I had for the XR250 cost NOTHING to implement. Guess if I worked for one of these "aftermark parts suppliers" as you call it I would not work there very long if all I sold were free stuff.
If we are all missing your point as you say, then maybe you should try a little harder at MAKING your point, other than telling the rest of us we don't get it. Your lack of command of the english language and the keyboard is not a reflection of any lack of comprehension of those who have responded to this thread, besides yourself of course.
Chill guys, all hammer is saying is before going ouit and spending a bunch of bucks on after market stuff, try using the stock range of adjustments first. He didn't say NOT to go over a bike from a dealer...thats common sense issue. Always go through a bike you have just purchased before riding it, new or used. All he was saying is find out what you have first with a new bike before going into the endless after market loop. Its good advice. And his intent was perfectly clear to me. I would advise exactly the same thing.
By the way Tex you did miss his point based on your posting after his advise:o
By the way Tex you did miss his point based on your posting after his advise:o
- Thread starter
- #19
I'll agree with Hammer and Weindogger, Just ride the bike and see what you need the most as an individual, some may need lower gearing before new bars, some may need a new set of Tags before lowering gearing, etc, etc. I think it would be stupid to buy a new bike and just start adding stuff to it. Unless you have money to burn. Why does everyone take these posts so personal, its just a bunch of information sharing. Its a good place to get and share info, not to argue in circles and pretend your the smartest. There is always someone smarter, bigger, meaner, faster, etc.
- Thread starter
- #20
By the way guys, I'll be getting a XR250 in about 4 more days, I'm selling the CR250, So far I've learned that I'll proably need a Thumper racing Insert, Fork Brace (maybe), remove the snorkel from the airbox, and maybe rejet. The bike may also be geared too tall. Thanks for the info.
Arizona_Jeff
Member
- Feb 6, 2001
- 20
- 0
Hammers post made sense to me also! I easlily interpeted ...ride the bike in it's stock form before buying any aftermarket stuff. You all gave good advice but man lay off the guy and dont be so quick to smash him. Jeff
TexKDX
~SPONSOR~
- Aug 8, 1999
- 747
- 0
'Dog, I agree with you that the point was made - eventually ;)..
Speaking of the aftermarket parts, I just put on a Clarke 3.8 gallon tank (cost $0.00 to me BTW) and Scotts dampner kit. The good news is the tank went right on, no problems, perfect fit. The Scotts is another story. One great thing about the little XR is it has a ton of steering sweep lock-to-lock. Change that to HAD, because I had to add steering stops for the dampner not to bottom out on itself. These removed a whole bunch of steering lock, I mean a whole bunch :( . Guess it will be coming off for the real tight stuff and I'll have do drill the stops all the way thru or go in and thread them properly instead of just cranking in a self tapping screw. If anyone else has experience with this mod please let me know.
jsmith, the bike seems geared pretty low to me already. First is a stump puller and 2nd/3rd worked great is some really tight and nasty stuff I did on it Sunday. I plan to go up a tooth on the front for DS work that has roads on the route BTW. As far as the fork brace, I was looking at going to XR400 or 'Zoke forks on the bike and have a set of each located. From what the owner of Thumper told me as well as other owners of the bike, the brace is a good idea if you are a faster rider and get into the rough stuff. The smaller forks tend to deflect and effect the steering precision of the bike. I may add one after I get the suspension done because then it will handle whoops at speed and probably need the stiffness more than it does now. It is definately on the list of adds though. I'll most likely stick with the stock boingers.
Arizona_Jeff, I respectfully disagreed with Hammer and offered an explanation of where and why without any namecalling. I'm still getting over the fact that xrsforever and I actually agree on something too :eek:
After doing 3 US market Jap offroad bikes in the last 18 months - a KDX, a WR400, and now the XR250, I'll tell all of you - there is nothing you can say that will change my position about spending several evenings with the bike and making some mods in the process. Some $0.00 mods, others just a few bucks, and something like the Scotts and handguards. JMO, slam it and me if you want, and I still think it is good advice for the forums. It only gets worse with the US Spec DS bikes. At least the euro spec bikes have real carbs on them with air/fuel screws that turn and needle clips that move.
Speaking of the aftermarket parts, I just put on a Clarke 3.8 gallon tank (cost $0.00 to me BTW) and Scotts dampner kit. The good news is the tank went right on, no problems, perfect fit. The Scotts is another story. One great thing about the little XR is it has a ton of steering sweep lock-to-lock. Change that to HAD, because I had to add steering stops for the dampner not to bottom out on itself. These removed a whole bunch of steering lock, I mean a whole bunch :( . Guess it will be coming off for the real tight stuff and I'll have do drill the stops all the way thru or go in and thread them properly instead of just cranking in a self tapping screw. If anyone else has experience with this mod please let me know.
jsmith, the bike seems geared pretty low to me already. First is a stump puller and 2nd/3rd worked great is some really tight and nasty stuff I did on it Sunday. I plan to go up a tooth on the front for DS work that has roads on the route BTW. As far as the fork brace, I was looking at going to XR400 or 'Zoke forks on the bike and have a set of each located. From what the owner of Thumper told me as well as other owners of the bike, the brace is a good idea if you are a faster rider and get into the rough stuff. The smaller forks tend to deflect and effect the steering precision of the bike. I may add one after I get the suspension done because then it will handle whoops at speed and probably need the stiffness more than it does now. It is definately on the list of adds though. I'll most likely stick with the stock boingers.
Arizona_Jeff, I respectfully disagreed with Hammer and offered an explanation of where and why without any namecalling. I'm still getting over the fact that xrsforever and I actually agree on something too :eek:
After doing 3 US market Jap offroad bikes in the last 18 months - a KDX, a WR400, and now the XR250, I'll tell all of you - there is nothing you can say that will change my position about spending several evenings with the bike and making some mods in the process. Some $0.00 mods, others just a few bucks, and something like the Scotts and handguards. JMO, slam it and me if you want, and I still think it is good advice for the forums. It only gets worse with the US Spec DS bikes. At least the euro spec bikes have real carbs on them with air/fuel screws that turn and needle clips that move.
TO: Weimedog, Jsmith, and AZJeff: Thanks for understanding my point, and coming to my defense.
TO: TexKDX: I am sorry I could not adequately communicate my thoughts to you. But most - I apologize for treading on YOUR turf.
I guess I should not post on this forum, as I have not thrown hundreds of dollars worth of mods on my XR, and I don't really miss them. Somehow, in spite of this fact, I am having a blast every time I ride.
(To Moderator: Please remove my registration from your forum, as I would not want to mislead or offend anyone with my experiences or comments..)
TO: TexKDX: I am sorry I could not adequately communicate my thoughts to you. But most - I apologize for treading on YOUR turf.
I guess I should not post on this forum, as I have not thrown hundreds of dollars worth of mods on my XR, and I don't really miss them. Somehow, in spite of this fact, I am having a blast every time I ride.
(To Moderator: Please remove my registration from your forum, as I would not want to mislead or offend anyone with my experiences or comments..)
xrsforever
Member
- Nov 2, 2000
- 249
- 0
I read everyone of these comments.TexKDXis trying to help you guys with reasonable modifications to help improve your bike and increase your knowledge of maintainence. So what did I miss ?:eek:
Last edited:
DualSportr
Member
- Aug 22, 2000
- 527
- 0
Please tell me you're not going into the frame with these? There's oil in that there frame!!! (said with a texas twang). Oh wait, maybe I should write it like this.... thayr'es eyrl in tha thayr frayme!
Ah heck, you get the gist.
