Yes, the carb is a PITA to work on, but it gets easier with a little practice. If you pull the hot start plunger, you can rotate the carb CW to pull the needle and pilot + main jet. Also, with the carb tilted, you can remove the float bowl to get at the leak jet.
The jetting you will need will depend on your exhaust system as well as temp, elevation, & humidity.
I have the FMF PC4 system and here's my jetting at 60F & 1200 ft elev- 172M, 38P, #3 clip position, and #70 leak jet. The bog is pretty much gone with this combination and the bike pulls VERY strongly. If this combo does not quite work for you, then there are richer L jets are available, but not necessarily from Yamaha. Instead, you can hunt down a power jet from Keihin carbs, which would be found on recent year KX & RM models. (lower number = richer acc pump action)
I have also heard of one guy who soldered his leak jet completely shut with good results. Probably not a lot of risk doing this, since the stock #100 is much too lean.
Good luck with it!