.40 FRP Fork Springs - Oil Level?

[MY KDX 220 R]

I have replaced the stock 5wt fork oil with 7wt,
Oil level, springs removed, forks completely compressed.
I measured 3 3/4" from the top of the fork tube to the oil, this being my calculation of the conversion from metric to standard. (I am no pro, therefore need your help)
Should this be 4" from the top of the fork tube?
'05 KDX 220 R
I weigh approx 220 lbs plus gear.

Thanks :worship:

 

[blakebird]

I just rebuilt a 220R from a basket case, in the process I had a local suspension guy revalve the forks, he also installed the FRP springs I bought when I had Jeff do the whole motor.

FWIW - I'm 215lbs, the springs are the same as yours....and he used 95mm oil level (which is 3.74").

 

[Aflica]

Hey guys...i had .40's put in mine also ...i weigh 208 plus gear....and the suspension specialist that did mine ,went with 110 ml of oil....seems to work good for me....hope this helps

 

[Green Hornet]

More oil makes a stiffer shock, less makes a softer. Jeff recommended 4 inches from top (oil) for my .38 springs install

 

[MY KDX 220 R]

Thanks guys,
3 3/4" is approx' as close to a b*ll hair from 3.74" - right?

I will be able to play with this as I still have enough oil left.
BTW, what an improvement over stock!!!

Thanks

 

[Green Hornet]

Wait till you try those new springs over rocks and other surprising jolts. They are GREAT

 

[andrew]

Wait till you try those new springs over rocks and other surprising jolts. They are GREAT

Well, they CAN be great, but I didn't find mine all that great on rocks and roots, only on the big hits like jumps etc. Basically, there is still too much high speed compression damping, which is felt in the first part of the stroke on rocks and roots. (my understanding is that the clicker only adjusts low speed compression damping, ie the big hits)

In order to make mine feel great, I revalved by removing two shims from the shim stack in the damping valve at the bottom of the fork. NOW it feels great ! and it's FREE !

OR, you could install Gold Valves,
OR, take it to a professional suspension tuner. It's up to you how you do it, but you WILL notice a huge improvement over rocks and roots.

 

[Green Hornet]

Well, they CAN be great, but I didn't find mine all that great on rocks and roots, only on the big hits like jumps etc. Basically, there is still too much high speed compression damping, which is felt in the first part of the stroke on rocks and roots. (my understanding is that the clicker only adjusts low speed compression damping, ie the big hits)

In order to make mine feel great, I revalved by removing two shims from the shim stack in the damping valve at the bottom of the fork. NOW it feels great ! and it's FREE !

OR, you could install Gold Valves,
OR, take it to a professional suspension tuner. It's up to you how you do it, but you WILL notice a huge improvement over rocks and roots.

I had mine installed by a suspension tuner, so he tweaked them w/o revalving. He told me to see how I like them before revalving. Thats the kind of person I like to deal with. His work is not just about the money

 

[andrew]

That's great, mate, you've got a fork you're happy with, and thats the name of the game isn't it!

I'm curious how he 'tweaked' them without revalving though, after all the only components there are the spring (weight), the oil (level and weight) and the damping valve (re-valving). Maybe he did remove a shim or two for you without you being aware of it. Because as I said, the stock damping valve has too much high speed compression damping which springs, oil weight and level, and adjustment on the clicker just isn't going to fix.

Anyway, you're happy, and that's what counts.

Cheers,
Andrew

 

[Green Hornet]

It works for me that way, but others who are heavier or bigger may find the revalve helps. He did have to shim a little for the pre-load and he put in 7wt. Oil.