hellbertos
Member
- Feb 17, 2004
- 128
- 0
hellbertos said:Given all the corrosion I'm inclined to think that I'll need to employ a few of the suggestions here. Any tips on brands of chem corrosion cleaners to try?
Also, any tips on the head (significant deposits) and cylinder(not too much)?? Corrosion cleaner and a small brush?? THe head in particular looks pretty bad.
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hellbertos said:Quick follow-up: Talked a shop that does marine restoration who offer soda blasting. The guy I spoke w/ said he does hot rod and moto resto's at home and offered up that the corrosion has likely damaged the part/thinned the metal to a point as to make it not worth reinstalling.
Granted he didn't see the items in question, but, just curious here... in case... in such a situation, would there be anyway to cost-effectively rehab a component? Like a machine shop that could weld it up and grind it out?? Just wondering in case it comes to that. Looks like the heads are not available new.
Ol'89r said:He is correct about the 'thinning of the case. Those cases have a very high content of magnesium in them. Most of the time they can be tig welded and remachined. But, if they are eaten to a point where they are thin, it is very hard to weld them without blowing through the case. Also, it's hard to find someone that can tig weld magnesium.
Soda Blasting will clean the case without removing metal like Bead Blasting or Sand Blasting will do. Also, soda is inert so, if a little is left in the case it won't hurt anything as opposed to sand or glass bead. After the case is blasted, check it closely for holes. lay the case on its outside and fill it with gasoline. Let it sit overnight. If the gas doesn't leak through, you should be good to go.
The CLR will work on your radiators and hoses. Most of the crust in the hoses will come out if you take your hand and crush the hoses and then blow them out with compressed air. If you use the CLR in your radiators, be sure to rinse the radiators with DISTILLED water after you are done to neutralize the CLR.
On the impeller, try using a little heat before removing it. Use a torch DIRECTLY on the impeller. This will expand the impeller and loosen its grip on the shaft. Be careful not to get the flame on the magnesium side case or your motorcycle will turn into a giant sparkler. :yikes: If for any reason the magnesium case does catch fire, DON'T THROW WATER ON IT! That will cause it to explode. Just take it outside and order some hot dogs. ;)
For chemicals to treat or prevent rust and corrosion, check out this site---> www.eastwood.com
sm7482 said:Actually for our right crank cover we used a propain torch and some low heat aluminum welding rod. we heated up the areas we needed to weld then added the rod, kinda like soldering. it's worked well and our case didn't explode/catch fire ect.
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Ol'89r said:If the case is magnesium, DO NOT USE OPEN FLAME ON IT. This is a very bad idea. Look on the side of the case. If it is mag, it will say magnesium on the case. Using open flame on a mag case can catch it on fire. Mag can be tig welded because tig welding uses an inert gas to eliminate oxygen from the welding area. Without the oxygen, the case will not catch on fire. Using open flame in an oxygenated environment is VERY dangerous with magnesium. Once it catches fire, you can't put it out.
The impeller is made of aluminum. It's ok to use a little heat on it to expand and loosen it instead of just using force and hoping for the best. Just using elbow grease is a good way to break something.
The nut is not welded on the impeller, it is cast as one piece.
sm7482 said:very true indeed, our right case very well may have been made of aluminum, but even if mag is flammable the heat thats generated by heating the impeller just may ignite it no? was it cheaper to make an aluminum mag alloy than all aluminum? seams dangerous no? I would still try using wd40 or or similar to free the impeller than heat, .
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