97 KDX200 Headlight/Wiring problems

[nmilne]

Picked up my new/secondhand 97 kdx200 last night ... I picked it up fairly cheap and, as a result, the girl needs a bit of attention :nod:

The first problem I'm trying to solve is wiring ... the previous to previous owner apparently used it on the farm and obviously didnt want the road gear, but was very destructive about removing it. He has simply cut through the whole loom between the plug that goes into the speedo unit and switch blocks and pulled the whole thing off :bang:

So, what I have here is essentially a bunch of wires poking out from around the steering head that are just bare ends. The switch blocks have also been removed etc. I have the original headlight unit and just want to wire it up as always-on, low beam fine (just to pass the legalities of rec reg over here in australia). I could only get a 12v reading from the two brown wires in the loom, everything else appears dead.

I'm also having trouble getting the rear light to work, the bike to idle, the bike to start and can't bleed the front brake because the m/c screws are rounded off. But other than that it's going great! :laugh:

I'm looking around for a manual at the moment, but I'm a gimboid when it comes to wiring and anything electrical, so any help is appreciated :cool:

 

[canyncarvr]

The fact that the term 'gimboid' means nothing to most US blokes means something to YOU.

There is no 'loom' OR 'speedo' on US bikes.

Some overseas bikes have batteries...US bikes do not. US bikes run on regulated AC..not DC.

So, you are dealing with something completely foreign (yeah...I'm funny!) to most of the posters on this board...thus..no response for days.

Sorry. Just don't know.

You might try looking up another Aussie or NZer on the board. Michelle for one...her hubby Henk for another. Try a PM or email if you find a familiar flag in a poster's corner.

Good luck!

 

[nmilne]

I'm slowly working these things out ... yep, my kdx has (had) the wiring for headlight, speedometer, idiot lights (hi-beam/indicators/neutral), indicators and tail light. Not battery, all magneto.

I'll try and hunt out a few people specifically ... otherwise, I'm happy to be thrown any bones ... ie. the likely purpose of the brown wires in the main loom and the red/black wires that seem to be common as well ... whether I should just connect off the yellow wire going into the kill switch, etc etc...

 

[nmilne]

Ok, ended up wiring the headlight to a brown wire and the ground to a red/black which seems to do the job and not try and blow when a few revs are added. Strangely enough when I measured the brown wire with a multi-meter on AC it gave me an erratic reading between 12-20-26 volts, but didn't seem to spike more than that when some revs were added. Red probe on the brown wire, black (-ve) probe grounded on the bottom yoke. When I measure it on a DC setting it gives a fairly consistent 12v. Weird.

 

[canyncarvr]

re: weird

I'd guess you have a rectifier, not a regulator. Your bike likely runs on DC, not AC (AC is used on the US bikes).

Certainly, the bike frame is ground for the system. Use the frame as a ground reference..not some other wire. Is that what you're using for a meter ground?

Your wire loom has altogether different colors. Without an overseas/model specific manual..no one with a US bike an no experience with your machine is going to have a clue.

Sorry. It would be a good thing if another 'southerner' chimed in with some worthwhile (correct) input.

Good luck!

 

[nmilne]

Ok, the headlight and tail lights are wired up and light properly, and dont blow under revs. So good there. But now I've had an ignition problem that have ground things to a halt. Despite running last night I've lost spark, after testing with the old plug and the new one. Got the plug grounded on a head bolt and no spark. It was running like crap before which leads me to believe this is just a further manifestation of an existing problem. I thought it might be the coil breaking down so I picked up one at a wreckers today, but no difference.

I measured the voltage into the CDI under a kick by hand (with plug out) and its 9-10v, which should be able to get up to 12v with a decent kick. The wire that appears to be the pule generator coming out of the stator seems to generate ~ 0.5v into the CDI, but I'm not getting anything meaningful when kicking over by hand between the CDI and the coil...!

It would be strange that the CDI just packed in after the bike was running yesterday, albeit rather crappily. I've been looking around for shorts without a great deal of success. I'm thinking I need to pull of the stator cover tonight and check that all is correct in there?

Sorry for the perstering, but any help appreciated, and thanks again for your previous help CC...

 

[Green Hornet]

Maybe its time to get a new stator for the magneto :nod:

 

[nmilne]

I just pulled the magneto cover off and had a quick squiz ... there was a little premix residue in the bottom of the case ... is this supposed to be a sealed unit? It does have a gasket so I'm assuming that's no big deal ... the pulse generator unit (black boxy thing bolted to the case on the bottom lhs) has very little air gap when the raised section of the flywheel comes a whizzing past ...

I'm still waiting for my manual to come (on backorder from kwack) ... anyone have any voltages/resisteance I can check things out for? I'm kind of lost when it comes to electrics (if you haven't noticed) so any step by steps would be most useful....

 

[Green Hornet]

That area SHOULD BE DRY. Are you sure its premix residue and not dried dirty water. The cable that goes into the cover is sealed by a rubber gromet. Dry everything up using electrical cleaner close the cover and use some high temp silicone around the gromet. If that does'nt work than I would suspect some seal is shot inside the crank area. Trouble shoting is a bitch, but start with the most obvious first and than work up. Alot of the times the problem is right under your nose, but you fail to look because you think thats too easy :cool:

 

[nmilne]

So can anyone tell me what voltage to expect from the pulse generator going into the CDI? I'm reading about 0.5v which I'm not is enough or not to trigger the CDI which could explain the lack of voltage going out to the coil...