A few CR questions

[berlinetta]

Thanks for your help thus far guys, much appreciated! I have a few more questions. This is my first dirtbike and first 2 stroke engine, so please excuse the noob questions :)

1. If I have my bike in 1st or 2nd (not running) and press the clutch, shouldn't the rear wheel spin freely? I have a feeling my clutch needs adjustment, if that's possible. The previous owner just replaced it so it's fairly new.

2. Is there a way to "tame" (I know, I know :yikes: ) the bike until I get a little more experience? sprocket sizes, or anything?

I had more questions, but that's all I can think of at the moment.

Thanks again!
Dan

 

[ThunderGoat]

Well yes in first and second the rear wheel should spin freely with the clutch in. But that has nothing to do with two stroke or four stroke. i have a old cr so mine has no adjustment besides the one on the perch but what i think is that you have grooves in your clutch basket. thats a fairly expensive part like $250 or so but alot of older bikes need it. im thinking it jumps to when you put it in gear or no, because thats a sure sign of clutch basket wear. but get a good manuel and keep asking question on here and you will have a nice bike in no time

 

[berlinetta]

It does jump in first gear, so new clutch basket then? I picked up a Clymer manual and so far it's paid for itself 5 or 6 times!

 

[2strokerfun]

A lot of dirt bikes rear wheels won't turn freely in gear with clutch pulled in and engine not running. It should turn better than with the clutch out, but you usually will still feel some engine compression. Check your manual for clutch adjustment. Often an adjustment on the end of the actuating rod. But you can't really tell if you have clutch problems unless the engine is running. If it works smoothly and is not slipping, might not be anything at all wrong with it.

 

[bruno670]

Sometimes the oil will cause clutch drag this is normal. One way to "tame" the beast is to use a head gasket from a older CR. I don't mean a used one. Check with your dealer and purchase a head gasket from a 86 Cr. Match the water jacket holes and the head bolts. I believe that they are the same. The only difference between the new bikes and the old bikes are the older bikes used a thicker gasket. All this will do is cut your compression down somewhat and the "hit" will be a little less.

 

[76GMC1500]

I don't know about that as the old bikes had higher compression ratios.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

If you want to slow the hit then get a heavier rotor and a big honk'in silencer, The clutch sounds normal,some dirt bikes can't kickstart in gear, the pressure is not releasing enough, could be warped metal plates.

 

[kawicam250]

all bikes that i have ridden have been able to move freely while either in nuetral or in gear with the clutch pulled in, it sounds perfectly normal.

 

[bruno670]

I don't know about that as the old bikes had higher compression ratios.

Just for your information, Maybe the older bikes had higher compression but adding .030 thicker head gasket from an older bike doesn't make a higher compression just because it came from an older bike.

If you want to use the older gasket here is the Honda part number 12254-HA2-670.

 

[berlinetta]

So the larger headgasket would reduce compression? What type of a sproket setup could I run to tame it? I'm needing a new chain and rear sprocket anyway so I'm good with replacing both sprockets. Any ideas there? Can weight be added to the flywheel like the YZ's?

 

[bruno670]

Steahly sells a flywheel wheel weight that would really tame it considerably. Also make it tougher to stall the bike. As far as sprocket changing it would work but make rideability tougher. First gear would be a clutch slipper to tame it down too much.(by that I mean that you would have to slip the clutch much longer than what you want.)

 

[CR Swade]

Are we talking 250 or 500? Either way, gearing is the quickest way to stretch a gear or tame hit.

CR250 cylinders have had at least 4 different watercooled designs since 82. CR500, well that is a different story as that beast didn't get anything but BNG for years

 

[berlinetta]

it's a 98 CR250. Thanks for the info Bruno. I see on their site they offer a 8, 10, 12 and 14 oz. Does the bike come stock with a weight? And if so, how much? What weight would be recomended?

 

[bruno670]

there is no extra weight that comes on the bike. Sheahly replaces the nut on your flywheel and includes the tool to put on /take off. don't loose it . I would recommend the 12 or the 14. I would go with the 14 if you are not too sure about the power.

 

[darringer]

Don't waste your time buying a flywheel weight. It won't tame the hit enough to make a difference. Also, no need to change head gaskets either. The best way to kill the hit is with gearing. Change the rear sprocket to a smaller size, approx. 2-3 teeth. this will tame the hit much more than a flywheel weight. Then when you're ready for the hit, change back to stock. Also, regarding your first post about the clutch. The symptoms you describe are normal for the clutch without the motor running. Since it's a "wet" clutch, for it to work correctly the bike needs to be running.

 

[berlinetta]

Don't waste your time buying a flywheel weight. It won't tame the hit enough to make a difference. Also, no need to change head gaskets either. The best way to kill the hit is with gearing. Change the rear sprocket to a smaller size, approx. 2-3 teeth. this will tame the hit much more than a flywheel weight. Then when you're ready for the hit, change back to stock. Also, regarding your first post about the clutch. The symptoms you describe are normal for the clutch without the motor running. Since it's a "wet" clutch, for it to work correctly the bike needs to be running.

Thanks for clearing that up. I'm only wanting to tame this thing for maybe 2-3 months so I can get used to riding, then back to stock so that makes sense.

 

[kkencr250]

I put a flywheel weight on my 98 cr250 and noticed quite a difference when the powerband hit, it really smoothed it out in my opinion. Not to mention it wouldn't stall as easy on tight technical uphill trails and has really made me appreciate it. It's easy to put on and take off and if you like the way it rides then you won't have to waste the money on only using an item for 2-3 months. It's all about you though, your riding the bike so you have to do what makes you feel comfortable. I was in the same situation as you, my cr is my first dirt bike and I was a little sketchy at first but after the flywheel weight smoothed the hit I felt more secure on that b*tch. But then again the more you ride the more comfortable you get. I have a 12oz. steahly weight, fatty pipe, turbine core silencer, boyseen reeds, etc. and I absolutely love the bike. I've had it for three years now and I still have my flywheel weight on. Just wanted to give you my opinion since I was in that same situation three years ago. Good luck, enjoy the bike, and be SAFE! :nod:

 

[berlinetta]

Ken, thanks alot for that! Nice to hear actual experience coming from the same situation. I ordered the 12oz last night. My bike has a fatty pipe, boyseen reeds, powercoreII silcencer and I think the addition of the flywheel weight wil lhelp tremendously. Thanks again for the input guys, much appreciated! On the downside, we just got another 6 inches of snow and it's still going. It'll be a while before I'm riding again :(