Advice on First Bike

[MikeRags]

1) your physical size (both height and weight are important)
6 foot, 165 lbs

2) How physical / aggressive are you ?
Middle of the road, not a daredevil, but don't want to grow out of it fast

3) what do you plan to ride- MX/SX tracks, woods, fields with friends or ?????
Trails, woods and on private farmland

4) Do you, have any riding experience?
Trail 50, 10 years ago

5) Do you think you will race ?
No

6) Are you mechanically inclined and will you be doing your own bike work?
Yes, have fixed up 2 stroke outboard engines

7) Do YOU have a preference to a brand/ motor choice (2 or 4 stroke)?
No

8) Do you have a dealer close by your home that you might use and what brand(s) does he carry
Uncle owns Honda Dealership(non dirt bike sales), but want to buy used.

9) How much ($) do you plan to spend on a bike?
Less than 2k

10) Do you live in California?
Yes

11) Your age?
24

12) anything else that you think would help form an opinion
Wanted a bike for several years and finally decided to get one. I have ridden quads since I was young. Will ride mainly on private land and occasionally on public land. Planning on buying used. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks for the help.


Mike

 

[shadowrevent]

Well I started on an 89' honda cr250, (first bike ever ridden) and I learned quick. Im 6'1 160 lbs. Its a great bike, and i got it for $500.

 

[longtime coming]

I don't know the California laws WRT public land machinery requirements (2 stroke vs 4 stroke, spark arrestor, lights, etc).That will be worth some research. You don't want to limit yourself to riding areas. There are many good bikes out there. $2000.00 will buy a good, reliable used dirt bike of pretty recent vintage. Quad riding prepares you somewhat for motorcycle riding, but not very much, as motorcycles are simply more difficult to ride than quads, but much more satisfying once you start to get it IMO.

There are excellent "playbikes" such as KDX200/220s, Honda XRs (probably a 400cc size), Suzuki DRZ 400s, and maybe a few others. I like two strokes as they are easier to work on (for me) and cheaper to run in the long haul. The good ones are virtually indestructible, but so are the XRs and DRZs that I mentioned. Motocross bikes are much more focused performance machines which require the rider to be more focused also, both in riding style and maintenance. But they are way fun too. Everybody who has had bikes would like to have a garage full so they could pick and choose what to ride on any given day. I am so lucky, yet i would still like to have more choices at times. It is good to start with something not too intimidating, as many bikes have a lot of power (even the 125mx bikes are way fast). This is getting way too long, so I vote for a Kawasaki KDX220/200 as a really good 1st bike in your price range. It has some power, handles pretty good when properly set-up and is reliable. I call mine the "couch" because it is comfortable. :ride:

 

[rmc_olderthandirt]

You definitely want to be familiar with the California Green/Red sticker issue.
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/ohvredgreen.htm

If you are going to ride exclusively on private land (farm or private MX tracks) you can ignore the sticker issue, but as soon as you want to ride on public lands having the appropriate sticker can be a really important thing.

There are many bikes for sale in California that for one reason or another were never properly registered. This isn't necessarily a deal breaker as it is possible to get them registered but you can expect to make three trips to DMV and one to the CHP (with the bike) to accomplish the task, so factor that into the value of the bike. In other words, I would pay a few hundred more for a bike with proper title and green sticker.

To get into your price range you will be looking at bikes that are 5 to ten years old, which is fine as these bikes can still have a lot of life left in them. If you buy a bike that is a 2002 or older it is automatically eligible for the desired "green sticker".

If you are friendly with you Uncle I would lean towards a Honda as your uncle might be able to get you a great discount on parts.

For your size and weight I would recommend a full sized MX style bike. A two stroke will be cheaper. For cruising around the farm a 125cc two stroke would be perfect. If the trails involve any steep hills the 125 may be a bit of a challenge and you would probably prefer a 250cc.

Rod

 

[MikeRags]

I have been looking around started with the TTR but after researching have decided to look for a KDX 200 or 220. I have found a year 2000 KDX200 for $1500 green sticker so it is good year round in california. Might go check it out this weekend. Any advice on what to look for in a used bike?

 

[shadowrevent]

look for a recent top end rebuild, and basically nothing major wrong with it. Make the guy ride it around a little.

 

[longtime coming]

First, look at the general condition of the bike. Is it clean? Does it look well cared for? Does it seem to be missing parts, have broken off bolts or signs of obvious abuse or neglect. Get it on the stand (box) so you can get the wheels off the ground. Spin the wheels slowly, feeling for smoothness in the bearings. Grasp the wheels top and bottom and push/pull to figure out what kind of shape the wheel bearings are in. While you are there, check the spokes, are any loose, missing, or unattached to the rim. Turn the handlebars slowly side to side with the front wheel off the ground to feel for roughness in the steering head bearings. Push and pull the forks front to back to check for slop in the steering stem. Get the back wheel off the ground and lift the swingarm up and down to check for slop in the linkage and shock mounts. Push the end of the swingarm side to side to check for slop at the swingarm pivot. Look at the chain and sprocket condition (both sprockets). Look at the shifter and shifter shaft and kickstart and kickstart shaft. Apply side loads to the shaft. They may move in and out a little but should not move side to side. Look for cracks in the frame at the steering head and down low behind the engine and below the swingarm, also under the seat both sides. Does the pipe have dents? Small dents don't matter, lets say as big as an egg or so. Pipes with large dents or cracks will have to be repaired or replaced. Sit on the bike, hold the front brake, compress the front suspension. Is it smooth and quiet? Jump on the seat. Is the rear suspension smooth and quiet. Does it have dampening, or does it just bounce? Does it look like there is any brake pad material left? Are the rotors smooth or scored? Are the rotors bent? You wlll feel bent rotors while braking lightly, and will see them if you look at the edges carefully while spinning the wheels. If you can, take off the left engine magneto cover and grab the flywheel. Try to move it side to side. There should be no play. You are checking the crank bearing. This is important. Hopefully the owner will take the cover off for you to show you how tight the bottom end is. Look for oil in there, behind the flywheel. It should be dry and clean. If it is oily looking, a crank seal is gone. I may have missed something important. But anyway, if you are now satisfied that this is not a piece of crap, then start the bike. If you don't want to start it, then ask the owner too. He should be able to start his bike with 1 to 3 kicks cold. A KDX will make a rattling sound from the right side. This should just about disappear with the clutch pulled in. Don't worry about it, it is normal. Piston slap sound different, and says the top end needs to be done (not too hard or expensive as long as the crank bearings are not shot, and that has been checked already). The bike should accelerate smoothly and with some authority. Shifting should be positive up and down. It should not make funny metalic crunchy noises down there. It should not fall out of gear. The clutch should engage smoothly without shuddering. Be patient, look around, there are lots of good bikes out there, and dirt bikes are surprisingly tough. I may have missed something important. Someone needs to proof this. Hope this helps. Regards.

 

[D3luxe]

A 250 2-stroke would probably be perfect for your size, and you should be able to get a decent one for under $2000. A 125 would probably work as well, but if you do any semi-serious trail riding you would probably need a 250, not to mention that it's very possible that you would want more power that you really can't get from the 125.

 

[longtime coming]

The KDX200/220 is a great playbike. I like mine. For one reason because it reminds me when I am going too fast (for me). When I ride the kid's mx bikes, I constantly can't control myself because I'm having way too much fun and sometimes get into trouble. A 250mx bike of recent vintage is a faster MUCH better handling machine than a KDX, but also more demanding. If you like speed, maybe buy a 125 or 250mx bike. If you just want to cruise around and not gas it everywhere the KDX is a good choice. I would not have been satisfied with a KDX when I was younger. Sometimes I want more now. But usually the "couch" satisfies my need to cruise. If you really want to learn to ride, a 125mx will make you learn. A 250 is more forgiving in the trails for sure.

 

[longtime coming]

Mikerags,

all that spinning and shaking of things I was talking about is merely to check bearings. Bearings are pretty cheap. Repairing bearing housings may not be. Eventually poor bearing maintenance will result in misshapen housings. Look for that. Don't worry if wheel bearings are slightly sloppy , for example, as long as the hub is good. Checking the crank bearings is important as a worn bottom end is expensive to fix (not nearly as much if you do the work yourself). Try to find a bike as new as possible for your money (not in year, but in hours of use).

 

[MikeRags]

What would it be like learning to ride on a 125 or 250mx bike? Would it be better to learn on something like the KDX200 and then move up in a year or two to a 250mx? I am a coordinated guy and learn fast however I do not want to be on some powerhouse that I am going to hurt myself on. Or should I jump right in and go for it?

 

[longtime coming]

a couple of questions:

did you look at the KDX?

have the quads you've ridden been utility quads or race quads? 2 or 4 stroke?

 

[MikeRags]

No I did not get a chance to go see the bike this weekend. I don't have a truck so I am looking for a trailer hitch receiver carrier. Want to get that out of the way before I need to pick up a bike. As soon as I find one I am going to head over and check it out.

All of the quad riding has been utility quads out on the ranch.

 

[longtime coming]

Mikerags,

get out and look at some bikes! Don't worry if you don't buy just yet. I know it is difficult when you don't have experience but look around, kick some tires. That kdx is 8 years old. A well maintained 8 year old bike would be great. A neglected one would not be. I think (and this is only an opinion) you should be looking for a 125mx or a kdx. Very different bikes those. The problem with used 125's is that many have been rode hard and put away wet. You don't want that, unless the price is right and you can go through it to fix it up. Sometimes you can find a properly maintained 125 for pretty cheap. I think that is the exception rather than the rule with used 125's.

The kdx is forgiving motor-wise, the 125 suspension and handling-wise. A nice 125 is a beautiful thing. For a first bike, almost any bike will do, as long as it works and doesn't wind up costing a lot of money in repairs. Whatever you do, get a manual for whatever you buy. If you get a fair deal on a machine, you won't loose much money on resale. If you buy a playbike (kdx, xr, drz) you will love it. If you buy a modern mx you will love that too. But they are apples and oranges to a certain extent. I don't know what else to say. The others on this thread had some good suggestions too, although a 250mx might be too much depending on your attitude. Really, a 250mx is easier to ride than a 125. One responder on here said he had no trouble starting on a 250mx. rmc_olderthanddirt seems to have some good advice for you too. Ride, you won't regret it. Just GET SOME PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT. Boots, gloves, goggles, helmet at an absolute minimum. Then pants and knee protection. Do not ride without boots and helmet anywhere. period. Remember, you will fall down. Usually that doesn't hurt too bad, even for an older guy.....

 

[flyingfuzzball]

First, look at the general condition of the bike. Is it clean? Does it look well cared for? Does it seem to be missing parts, have broken off bolts or signs of obvious abuse or neglect. Get it on the stand (box) so you can get the wheels off the ground. Spin the wheels slowly, feeling for smoothness in the bearings. Grasp the wheels top and bottom and push/pull to figure out what kind of shape the wheel bearings are in. While you are there, check the spokes, are any loose, missing, or unattached to the rim. Turn the handlebars slowly side to side with the front wheel off the ground to feel for roughness in the steering head bearings. Push and pull the forks front to back to check for slop in the steering stem. Get the back wheel off the ground and lift the swingarm up and down to check for slop in the linkage and shock mounts. Push the end of the swingarm side to side to check for slop at the swingarm pivot. Look at the chain and sprocket condition (both sprockets). Look at the shifter and shifter shaft and kickstart and kickstart shaft. Apply side loads to the shaft. They may move in and out a little but should not move side to side. Look for cracks in the frame at the steering head and down low behind the engine and below the swingarm, also under the seat both sides. Does the pipe have dents? Small dents don't matter, lets say as big as an egg or so. Pipes with large dents or cracks will have to be repaired or replaced. Sit on the bike, hold the front brake, compress the front suspension. Is it smooth and quiet? Jump on the seat. Is the rear suspension smooth and quiet. Does it have dampening, or does it just bounce? Does it look like there is any brake pad material left? Are the rotors smooth or scored? Are the rotors bent? You wlll feel bent rotors while braking lightly, and will see them if you look at the edges carefully while spinning the wheels. If you can, take off the left engine magneto cover and grab the flywheel. Try to move it side to side. There should be no play. You are checking the crank bearing. This is important. Hopefully the owner will take the cover off for you to show you how tight the bottom end is. Look for oil in there, behind the flywheel. It should be dry and clean. If it is oily looking, a crank seal is gone. I may have missed something important. But anyway, if you are now satisfied that this is not a piece of crap, then start the bike. If you don't want to start it, then ask the owner too. He should be able to start his bike with 1 to 3 kicks cold. A KDX will make a rattling sound from the right side. This should just about disappear with the clutch pulled in. Don't worry about it, it is normal. Piston slap sound different, and says the top end needs to be done (not too hard or expensive as long as the crank bearings are not shot, and that has been checked already). The bike should accelerate smoothly and with some authority. Shifting should be positive up and down. It should not make funny metalic crunchy noises down there. It should not fall out of gear. The clutch should engage smoothly without shuddering. Be patient, look around, there are lots of good bikes out there, and dirt bikes are surprisingly tough. I may have missed something important. Someone needs to proof this. Hope this helps. Regards.

GREAT INFO!!!!

also check the airfilter. if it is dirty i would doubt that the owner cleaned it while he rode the bike. that or he used selling the bike as an excuse to "forget" maintenance. also look for dirt behind the airfilter (or around where it seals) though not everyone cleans there. also smell the oil. now its oil it wont smell great but if it smells bad (like bad bad and i know its not descriptive but thats the best i can do) then he didnt change the oil very often. again same as the airfilter. he didnt do maintenance while he rode it or before he sold it.