After Powder Coating Question - Electrical
- Thread starter KelvinKDX
- Start date
No, the coil should handle it. Sand sown to bear meatal, though (easier said than done) See ya next week. The powder is tough.
Do a good job, though. Prepare every area where the motor mount will touch. This prevents the mounts from loosening the frist time the bike is ridden.
The powdercoat is thick! It will wear off of the frame mounts leaving the bolts loose.
I would also suggest using some "New finish" brand car wax on the freshly coated frame. It tends to seal it.
Can you post a picture of this when your done? I would love to see it!
What color did you coat it?
Do a good job, though. Prepare every area where the motor mount will touch. This prevents the mounts from loosening the frist time the bike is ridden.
The powdercoat is thick! It will wear off of the frame mounts leaving the bolts loose.
I would also suggest using some "New finish" brand car wax on the freshly coated frame. It tends to seal it.
Can you post a picture of this when your done? I would love to see it!
What color did you coat it?
KelvinKDX
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- Aug 25, 2000
- 1,622
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- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks for the advice on coating removal at the motor mount locations - i would not have thought to do that. i plan to use a dremel tool to remove the powder coat from the frame. I'll prepare the motor mount areas by removing the powder coat and applying some black primer (thin) that will not be seen behind the bolt heads but shoulf help corrosion.
You're right - this stuff is thick. I need to remove coating for installation of the bearing races for the steering stem too. I'm also finding that i have to run a tap in all of the threaded holes. I've heard that powder coaters who have experience with bike frames know to mask the threaded holes off. I was not so lucky.
She had her frame coated Silver Vein and her foot pegs black - looks great.
I posted a pic of the frame in another post on "New Frame Color". Take a look. I'll post the finished bike when it happens (hopefully before the end of the season).
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=77088
You're right - this stuff is thick. I need to remove coating for installation of the bearing races for the steering stem too. I'm also finding that i have to run a tap in all of the threaded holes. I've heard that powder coaters who have experience with bike frames know to mask the threaded holes off. I was not so lucky.
She had her frame coated Silver Vein and her foot pegs black - looks great.
I posted a pic of the frame in another post on "New Frame Color". Take a look. I'll post the finished bike when it happens (hopefully before the end of the season).
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=77088
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Sorry I didn't read the post closely enough. My only other thought is that maybe you are taking the choke off too soon and making the bike starve for fuel. Once it stalls, you are kicking it without the choke(not enough fuel) and causing it to build up on the plug and foul it. You also might have a leaky crank seal on the tranny side causing the bike to have excess oil in the motor upon startup.
Um, wrong. Yea, it probably WILL work, but the coil is a step up transformer. The primary circuit is the low voltage generated by the flywheel (part of the engine) and the spark plug is in the secondary circuit. For things to work properly, you have to have complete circuits......THROUGH the frame! Make SURE the coil has a good electrical ground to the frame AND make sure the engine has the same good ground!
Kevin,
The motor mount areas on my KX were not bare when I removed my motor for powder coating and they are not bare now. I did remove the powder coat from the coil mounting area, cleaned the mounting tabs of the coil where the two ground connectors are secured by the coil mount bolts and then mounted the coil. Once I mounted the coil I used black undercoating (frame is black) on the exposed areas of the frame around the coil to prevent corrosion.
As long as the kill switch, coil and your ground connectors in the wire harness are clean and secure you should be good to go. :thumb:
B
biglou
I've done a couple pc frames and haven't paid any special attention to grounding the case. The coil will ground through the shoulder of the bolt and through to the threads into the frame. I believe the ignition coil/rotor/stator or whatever, has both pos and neg lines out, and it will effectively connect the engine to the frame through that wiring. I didn't research this too much, just making some semi-educated guesses here...
