Any tips for my first top end?

[Hucker]

Well I finally got my gasket kit, my Wiesco Pro Lite top end kit and the damn powervalve. I'm installing this on my '90 RM250 which I am pretty sure is a cast jug. Not Nikasil like the new bikes. Is there any prep work I should be worried about? Any little hints that you pro's have?

Thanks...

 

[jmics19067]

if it is an original jug<not sleeved> it does have some type of plating. I forget what kind of platings suzuki uses but my buddies 88 rm was definately plated at one time<he sent it out to get sleeved when worn>.

be careful measuring and be meticulous cleaning and you should be fine.

 

[Senior KX Rider]

Start with a clean engine and clean work area and keep everything clean till you are done :thumb:

 

[KYHU]

Don't drop a circlip into the crankcase.


david

 

[mackay]

Go to Eric Gorrs web site and read the articles on top end rebuilds....they are just about the best resource I have found for clear cut information.

 

[GeoffM24]

I just did my first rebuild this winter so here are some tips from a newbie point of veiw.

1) It isn't that complicated unless there is a problem.

2) Check the cylinder walls for the cross hatching lines, if there still there you are good to go.

3) Read the piston. Are there carbon marks on the sides from blow by? Is it in good shape?

4) Make sure you clean everything well. I'm not sure if 90 RMs have powervalves but if it does make sure you clean them well.

5) Break it down into steps and take your time. I took one day to take the motor apart and inspect it. At this point you can see if you will need to get cylinder repairs or just bolt in a new piston. Then schedule a day to put it back together and give yourself plenty of time.

6) Make sure you have a torque wrench and a service manual with torque specs.

7) Take your time.

 

[TWRT]

use separate containers for the different screws/bolts/nuts.... it makes putting it back together w/the right screw in the right place easier.

 

[splatt]

Originally posted by TWRT
use separate containers for the different screws/bolts/nuts.... it makes putting it back together w/the right screw in the right place easier.

&nbsp;

Ziplock type baggies work well for this too. Use a marker to label the different baggies and like everyone else has said take your time.

&nbsp;

Steve&nbsp;

 

[Faded]

• Don't install the piston backward
• Torque the head studs in a star pattern (1,3,5,2,4,6)
• Don't overtorque the head studs (don't ask how I know)
• Check the head for warpage
• Check your piston ring gap before installing piston

If my '87 RM250 had plating (which it did), then I would think your 90 would be plated as well.

 

[Dirtvet]

Do you have a manual? This helps considerably.

Be sure to compress the ring into its gap correctly! There is one small bridge in each ring gap the the ends of the rings should touch when you compress them while sliding the cylinder on. After the cylinder is on but before you put the head on, push the kickstarter by hand to be sure it slides VERY smooth. If not, then one or more rings are not on right.

I lunched a 1992 Honda cylinder on my first top end job because (I believe) I didn't get the rings on right. This was a couple of years ago. Now top ends are fun and I have no problems on all my bikes.

 

[Faded]

Originally posted by Tommygun
Now top ends are fun and I have no problems on all my bikes.

Except getting the cylinder off, right?! :thumb:

 

[keith500r]

I always install one of new piston circlips before you even start installing the piston. that way you only have to risk dropping one clip into the crankcase.

 

[Dirtvet]

You got that right Faded!