Anyone done a fork rebuild?
- Thread starter uts
- Start date
KdX_SkUiRrEl
Member
- Oct 28, 2006
- 47
- 0
are they conventional forks? (right side up?)
simple task. In the bottom of the fork you will find a allen bolt remove it. under the fork boot there may be a upper seal, remove it , if not you should see a "wave ring" (it fits in a ring groove but it isn't a snap ring) remove it. grab the upper part of the fork and the lower part and pull them apart. the seal come out with the upper part. There is 2 slider bushings that you must watch for. one on the lower end of the upper part and one just below the seal. inspect them for wear. (if the black coating is worn you must replace them, the surface is coated with teflon. ) Put them back together , don't forget to put the bolt back in the bottom. An air impact works great , make sure it is as tight as you can get it. coat the inner part of the seal with seal grease, vaseline will work , and slide them over the upper part. you may need a seal driver to push the seal back into the lower half. place the wave clip back into the groove and fill with the proper amount of oil.
If you'd like, I can scan and send you the pages out of my Yamaha IT manual.
But, I would prefer that you chuck those forks in favor of some 43mm off some ragged, beat, 80's MX'r.
Ill work on those pages.
Keep in mind that when you loosen that bolt at the bottom of the fork, that the thing you are loosening it from, the damper rod, may start to turn.
There is a special tool to hold that damper rod, though I have always managed to not have to use, or buy, that tool.
Reconsider those forks, and Ill get you those pages from the service manual.
Kamal
But, I would prefer that you chuck those forks in favor of some 43mm off some ragged, beat, 80's MX'r.
Ill work on those pages.
Keep in mind that when you loosen that bolt at the bottom of the fork, that the thing you are loosening it from, the damper rod, may start to turn.
There is a special tool to hold that damper rod, though I have always managed to not have to use, or buy, that tool.
Reconsider those forks, and Ill get you those pages from the service manual.
Kamal
2strokerfun
Member
- May 19, 2006
- 1,500
- 1
KDXKamal said:
Another poster mentioned air impact wrench. That is what I use to break free the allen bolt on the bottom. Might need to buy 6 mm allen socket (size I normally use, anyway). Can usually get one from discount tool place for about $4. Otherwise, you may have to use special tool, broomstick or something to put pressure on the slider so it doesn't turn when you try to take bolt out.
The best "cheap trick" in case that bolt is tight, is to keep the fork together, spring in it, and compress it REAL GOOD when you go to take the allen bolt out the bottom.
The spring sits directly on the damping rod, and will keep it from turning with enough pressure.
I did find, one day, a piece of 1" square tube that seems to fit almost perfectly into the damping rod of the 43mm Showas I was working with..to this day, that square tube is my "fork tool" though I don't know if it will work in those anemic little IT forks.
Im working on those scans for you..
Kamal
The spring sits directly on the damping rod, and will keep it from turning with enough pressure.
I did find, one day, a piece of 1" square tube that seems to fit almost perfectly into the damping rod of the 43mm Showas I was working with..to this day, that square tube is my "fork tool" though I don't know if it will work in those anemic little IT forks.
Im working on those scans for you..
Kamal
I find that with conventional forks, if you are only replacing the seals, you can remove the spring, fill it up completely with oil, and put a ratchet strap around it. as you tighten the strap the oil will push the seal out (providing you removed the clip) and you just have to pay attentionand keep the seal from twisting by pushing the high side back in periodically, until you can grab it with a set of pliers. Beware, this can be a messy job, but it is pretty easy.
- Thread starter
- #9
Kamal,
I already got the manual. I can see the procedure and it looks way complex with speacial tools, that's why I asked how hard it really is. I find manuals can be missleading about the difficulty of a task. Thanks heaps for your help though. And if you have the scans done I'll look at them for sure. Is yours a Clymer manual? I have an original Yamaha one and it's a bit vague. I'd like to get some new forks with a disk brake setup like you suggested. Unfortunaly I haven't the cash at the moment. I just wanna get the beast out in the forest.
Frudaddy,
I think you are onto it. After looking at the manual more closely, that is how they get the seal out. And it's the first thing they do. Complete disassembly can be avoided. Is it easy to get the new seal in?
UTS
I already got the manual. I can see the procedure and it looks way complex with speacial tools, that's why I asked how hard it really is. I find manuals can be missleading about the difficulty of a task. Thanks heaps for your help though. And if you have the scans done I'll look at them for sure. Is yours a Clymer manual? I have an original Yamaha one and it's a bit vague. I'd like to get some new forks with a disk brake setup like you suggested. Unfortunaly I haven't the cash at the moment. I just wanna get the beast out in the forest.
Frudaddy,
I think you are onto it. After looking at the manual more closely, that is how they get the seal out. And it's the first thing they do. Complete disassembly can be avoided. Is it easy to get the new seal in?
UTS
I just did fork seals on my Dads 97 CR125... Easy..
I had to go to a local vet to get a syringe big enough for
setting the oil level, but it all worked out just fine.
I was really suprised how easy that job really was. I don't think I'll ever pay the local shop $75 to do fork seals again!
I had to go to a local vet to get a syringe big enough for
setting the oil level, but it all worked out just fine.
I was really suprised how easy that job really was. I don't think I'll ever pay the local shop $75 to do fork seals again!
