Auto Bodywork experts

CanadianRidr · Feb 4, 2002

Hello I am new to body work on an ACTUAL car, but I do often buy die cast models and lower then, shave them, paint them etc...
But my girlfriend recently bought a 92 Buick and it has the famous GM paint :(
Now I only want to repair and touch up the roof, it has about 4 rust spots on the biggest being about a 4 to 5 inch circle, now I figure the rust isn't that deep so hope fully I can sand most of it off then rust proof prime it, then smooth it out with body filler, (Do I have the steps right?)
Also I bought this stuff called rust fix, it turns the rust into black primer then you sand it (it is suppose to stop any more rust from forming)
Should I use even if I sand ALL the rust off and use rust proof primer?
Anyways when all is done I am just going to use a spray bomb and hopefully make it look a bit nicer.

So bodyexperts am I going to be ready for a suprise? Are my steps wrong?

Just let me know ;) thanks

a454elk · Feb 4, 2002

Way wrong, here's the steps.

Got to Sears and buy a Sawzall. Get a real sharp blade and grab some goggles, you'll need em. Start at the top of the window frame and cut the roof off, yes you heard me right. Cut the whole thing off, including the back window. It'll make alot of noise and sparks but that's normal, trust me. Throw that thing away and jump in your new convertible. Now, pack everything you own up and move to sunny socal. You won't need the roof any more. Hope this was helpful.
Elk

CanadianRidr · Feb 4, 2002

WAAAAHHH:scream:
I don't think the lady friend would appriciate that lol, especially in this lovely minus 30 weather we are having in Canada :(
Hmm
maybe the elk needs a convertable conversion lol:confused:

Umm any other tips (I am almost afraid to ask)

JuliusPleaser · Feb 4, 2002

Don't do it. Take the car to your friendly local Maaco paint shop and let them do it. Do you guys have Maaco? If not, check the phone book for discount body shops. Maaco painted an entire race car (body work included) for me for $500. It was a pretty good job, too.

Canada may be different, but our school system has "trade schools" that teach auto body repair. They do decent work (sometimes) for cheap. Check around first. I highly recommend letting someone with experience do the repair.

CanadianRidr · Feb 4, 2002

Yes we have a maico, but I hear they just sand and paint over rust, the word here is once you go through the car wash it's by by new paint job:p

I am not really expecting it to be that bad, since it looks like mainly surface rust.
Am I being naive to think it's a simple sand, fill, prime and paint job?

JuliusPleaser · Feb 4, 2002

Try it. :p

Seriously, if you really want to give it a shot, you'll need :

Masking tape
Grinder
Sandpaper
Rust killer
Primer
Lacquer thinner
Spray paint
A nice warm shop
Time
Mass quantities of beer

You'll still wind up with a hack job. There's a lot more to it than you think.

Why not borrow a grinder from someone and grind the rust off before you take it to Maaco? I guarantee that their paint is better than anything you'll buy in a can.

Trust me. Maaco will prolly do it for $100 or so.

CanadianRidr · Feb 4, 2002

Hmm I don't have a grinder is this going to be real important? I do believe there is one back in my trailor somewhere. I thought just some major sanding would do the trick, Like I said (maybe Naive) but I don't think it's that deep.
What would be the purpose of the lacquer thinner?

Hey I will stay away from the beer because I don't want a hack job :)

ps, I do know my way around a spray can, I bombed my YZ frame, and I do many models

XRpredator · Feb 4, 2002

Maaco?!? :scream: JP, I can't believe what I'm reading! ;)

But he's right, if you want it done fast and cheap, that's the way to go. It'll be cheaper if you prep it (get the rust out first, then filler if needed, then primer), and they do know what they're doing since they do it all the time.

CanadianRidr · Feb 4, 2002

Heh heh XR that's kinda what I though, I have heard many mixed things about maico.

But if I get all the prep work done, I am a MASTER with a spray bomb, Like I said I don't want to do the entire roof just the rusty sections.

XRpredator · Feb 4, 2002

If you just do the rusty spots, it will look like a hack job. At least do the entire roof.

Heck, if you don't care about matching, paint a Confederate flag on the roof and make her a General Lee!

Milquetoast · Feb 4, 2002

It will look like poop if you don't do the whole roof. Grind out the rust, then fill that area with bondo right up to the edge of the paint and sand with 220 dry as smooth as possible. Spot prime any bondo-ed areas and then sand the whole roof with 220 wet sand paper, then 400. Mask everything off with newspaper and leave for the night. When you get back the next day, wipe with a clean paper towel and alcohol and let dry for a few minutes. Spray as best as you can and it will probably look pretty darn good.

(Or, go to Maaco and learn nothing but how to pay others for something you can do. Don't risk gaining new skills, that's not really good for you anyway. )

CanadianRidr · Feb 4, 2002

Hmm where do you suppose I could get the 01 decals for the side :) lol
Well I didn't want to do the whole roof because then I am afraid it will look chinzy with a spray bomb. I guess I will see how well it starts, the maico idea is pretty good it's just the car's paint isn't bad at all just the roof, and we are both broke so I figured I would save some cash.
Do you think it could still look good if I did the whole roof with a bomb?

thanks for the help so far :)

ps, do I have the steps right?

Sand, and get rid of all rust
Then spray on rust killer
let it dry, then fill if needed with some body filler
than primer
than paint
then clearcoat?

pps, What is the paint code for that hemi orage
:p

ppps, Thanks Milque those are some good points :) I will try and post before and after pics,

Milquetoast · Feb 4, 2002

Not sure what you mean by spray "bomb" but you can do a really good job with a simple spray can, especially on a flat horizontal surface (so you can put on alot of paint without fear of it running, using alot will help it flow out real flat and glossy). Your local auto body supply will have a product that is sort of a can of propellant with a detachable bottle that you fill with whatever paint you want. $5 or so for the sprayer, and a pint of paint should do it. Or if it's a domestic car, the local car parts places often have the right colors in a touch up can of spray paint.

CanadianRidr · Feb 4, 2002

Yep it was 22 bucks to match the orginal paint code, and they then asked how many kilometers were on the car and they lightly faded it to match good they said.
Yes a spray bomb is just a hick way of saying spray can.

thanks alot for your help Milquetoast:D

JuliusPleaser · Feb 4, 2002

The worst part of your plan is using spray-paint. That stuff won't last 5 minutes. Also, if the rust is bad enough to need Bondo, you're waaay out of your element. But then, what do I know? I'm just a guy with no skills and no balls. :silly:

"Imma get them Duke boys!"
Boss Hogg
Hazzard County
Alabama

Milquetoast · Feb 4, 2002

Even a small amount of rust will leave a small pit when it is removed, but that is the reason for the bondo. The metal is obviously below the level of the paint, so you use the bondo to fill up the area back to the level of the existing good paint. This way you don't need to worry about feathering the edge of the existing good paint down to the metal level (very difficult to get right for a beginner).

Spray paint will work just fine, and last a long time. The automotive paints in a can are not bad at all as long as you use enough. Several coats are important, just like it would be done at the body shop.

CanadianRidr · Feb 4, 2002

No balls? Huh lol, where did that come from?
well I don't know if the rust needs bondo, I have never really checked the roof is still competly solid. I don't know I could start sanding and it could all come off and it will be super easy. That's what I am hoping at least.
Even so I just want the bondo to make sure the roof is nice and smooth.

JP, your lack of faith in your fellow DRN'er is upsetting :ugg: lol j/k

I do plan on clearcoating when I am done

ps, milque what do you mean by feathering the old paint? If I do the whole roof does it matter? And if I do the whole roof , how far should I sand?

Milquetoast · Feb 4, 2002

Where the paint ends and your grinding begins will leave an abrupt change from the height of the good paint surface down to the level of the metal, this change in elevation needs to be sanded out smoothly and doing so creates a "feathered" or smooth edge. It's not easy to do well.

You won't need to do this if you fill in that area with bondo right up to the edge of the paint and then sand smooth. The primer will fill in the small scratches left behind, and use a "glazing" or "spot" putty to fill in the leftover scratches.

Paint can be applied to primer, spot putty, or good existing paint, any of which should be sanded to 400 wet.

a454elk · Feb 4, 2002

Think sunroof! Go to your local parts place and order a sunroof, she'll love that. Still need the sawzall though, and goggles!
Elk
Just trying to help!

M. Gregor · Feb 4, 2002

I say go ahead and give it a try! Just remember to let
us know how it turns out!
Trust me, JP is right. It won`t be as easy as you
think but you won`t learn anything if you don`t try.

JuliusPleaser · Feb 4, 2002

It's not a lack of faith. I've been around body shops all my life, and i always thought body work looked easy. Then i tried it. I bought $600 worth of supplies and equipment, and rented a compressor. After a week of grinding, sanding, priming, taping, etc., I was ready for paint. I let a friend spray the car, and the paint looked really good. The bodywork looked like absolute crap.

My perspective is probably different from yours, too. Is it a nice car, or a POS? I would rather pay a little more for something that I consider perfect. I used to be happy with sub-standard quality if it meant saving a few bucks.

I've found that it's easier for me to concentrate on making enough money to pay professionals to do stuff for me.

Is the car metallic? Are you sure you want to use clear-coat? If the car is a solid color, you can get away with using a single-stage paint. You need to make sure that your Bondo, primer, and paint are compatible, too.

I'm really good at lobotomies. If you ever want to perform one, just ask. I'll be happy to walk you through the process. I would try it on someone else's head first though. :)

CanadianRidr · Feb 4, 2002

Elk Elk Elk:think you are ummm.... helpful LOL ;)

So milque just to clear things up, once I have the car ready to be sanded and it's all filled up I sand with 220 dry till it's smooth, then primer the car and sand with 220 wet, then 400. Then wait one day and then start spraying the paint? Or do I wait one day then primer the whole roof again?
just one coat of primer?
sorry for all the q's you just seem very smart in this field.

thanks

JP the car is a light silver gray and it's sort of metallic. Umm I hope my paint, bondo and primer is compatible

ps, do you know anything about this rust killer I bought? It says it turns rust into black primer than you sand it, then prime over it.
But I figure I will only need this in EXTREME cases of deep rust
Or if I do sand ALL the rust off do I still need this stuff?:eek:

Milquetoast · Feb 4, 2002

The rust stuff seems to work reasonably well, just follow the directions to a "T".
Here's the steps I use...

Grind out all rust
use rust converter stuff on rusted spots only, keep it away from the edge of the good existing paint
Use bondo to fill ground out area
Sand flat to 220 dry
prime, 3 coats
sand to 220 dry
spot putty any minor scratches
sand to 220, then 400 (whole roof)
clean with alcohol and paper towels
mask everything in a 3 mile radius
go have a beer and go to bed (this will let the dust settle around the shop that you've been kicking up all day)
next day, wipe down with alcohol and paper towels again and let dry
when TOTALLY dry, paint away 3 coats should do it, horizontal surface so lay it on pretty thick. Adjust your speed and overlap until one stroke of the spray flows into the previous one. Follow directions as to when to do next coat, often 15-20 minutes between coats.

JuliusPleaser · Feb 4, 2002

Maybe THESE GUYS can help. I know it's just a roof, but think about it before you spend a bunch of money. If the car is just a beater, have at it. I wouldn't expect my girlfriend to drive around in a car with a two-tone paint job though. If she doesn't care, go ahead and give it a shot. Milky mentioned the baby-bottle sprayer. . .those things actually work OK. Practice spraying something first. Metallics are different - you have to apply a final "mist" coat to get the solids to flow properly. Maybe the local auto paint supply store can give you some tips on mixing paint/thinner/fisheye killer, etc.

CanadianRidr · Feb 4, 2002

Thank you too much Milque I will print that out and staple it to the wall :) The project is going to begin on Saturday mourning and hopefully my girlfriend can drive it home on Monday :)

thanks again

ill let you know how it works out, and if I post screaming it means I wrecked something. LOL

ps, Should I sand in-between coats of primer, and how long should I let it dry the can just says (fast-drying)

and finnaly should I clear coat the final job?

JP her motto right now is, she would rather have a car with a half nice paint job that kinda matches rather than big rust patches all over the roof, and since she is making payments on the car she can't afford a pro to do (she will have to settle for me ;) ) Not to mention I would rather nab the rust now before the whole car is rust bucket
PS, it's a 92 Buick Skylark (it aint bad)

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