Aw Crud.... Project just got bigger KX125

[akagalford]

So end of last season I picked up a KX125 not running of course as a project to fix up. Previous owner said it was in an accident that crushed the exhaust pipe and said just needed a new one to get it running again. What a load of crap....

So the positive side:
It was pitched as a 1996 KX125, turns out after a VIN check its actually a 1998 + for me.
Did get it for $325 but even at that price wasn't really a deal now that I'm looking back on how much work it really needs to get running again.

On the bad side:
Was missing or had a bunch of improper bolts/misc parts missing, had to buy a new expansion chamber pipe, new tires, levers, handle bars, fork rebuild kit, etc, etc.

Put everything together today to do a running test and go to kick it and it has no resistance.... Uh-oh.... Pull the plug and put my finger on the spark plug hole and give it a kick, sure enough no compression. AHH @#$#@%^$#^#! :bang:

So now I have a top end to fix along with everything else... gonna have more into this bike than its worth now, and to top it off I bought it originally for the wife only to find out its way to tall for her so I have to get rid of it in the end.

So, anyone have recommendations on where to have a cylinder bored and possibly sleeved? Its looking like it may needed it.

 

[julien_d]

Pull the jug and have a look. If the cylinder looks bad, I would just send it off for a re-plate. Millennium Tech, langcourt, or powerseal would be my places of choice. You can buy the piston kit from them, and they will match it to the piston for you. If they cylinder looks ok, but piston and rings are bad, then you can do a happy dance and just throw a new piston kit in.

 

[akagalford]

I'll take some pictures of it so you can see but think I'll go with your suggestion and contact the companies you list to see what my options are. Talking with my buddy we are thinking we might as well strip the whole bike down to the frame now and re-powder coat the whole thing since we have to go this far now anyway. Hoping it might make it worth a little more too.

What could I get for a fully rebuilt/refurbished 1998 KX125? Blue book doesn't look good.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Go to the expert and eliminate as many fools as possible, http://www.eric-gorr.com/index.html

 

[akagalford]

Pictures of the damage

 

[akagalford]

Bike Brake down picture

<a href="http://s82.photobucket.com/albums/j248/akagalford/?action=view&current=CIMG3409.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j248/akagalford/CIMG3409.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[akagalford]

Next question, with this much damage to the piston and cylinder what should I do with the bottom end? Should I replace the bearings? more? I have already ordered a full seal kit and tools to brake it all down... so since I am in there....

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Are you the type of person, lucky enough that 1 grain of metal did not tear up the bottom end, or yet? You inspected the big end of the rod, and bearing with a light and magnifier? And you feel confident that 1 grain is not sitting between the seal and main crank bearing? Just waiting until the motor goes over 12,000 rpm before it comes out? All for the price of popping the cases apart and changing 2 bearings, 2 seals and put it back together? Never done it before? There is no time specific, that the bearings and rod go out at, its more maintenance and knowing when you are pushing your luck. You did learn about Kawasakis' crappy plating! Anything out of spec on the rod, or the cage, or bearings look odd, change it also. The big end is a lot easier to check out of the engine, not impossible. Thrust washer clearance and up and down are the most important, aside from careful magnified inspection. Anytime you loose the top end, the debris likely ran through the bottom also. Nothing like a tight 2 stroke. Less rings, shorter top end life. I would be guessing 5 to 7 hours, and just change the piston also? Which happened first, the ring went or the plating? My guess is the ring. Vintage Bob

 

[_JOE_]

You'll have almost as much into fixing that bike as you'll get for it......maybe 1200 bucks? Just do it right(top and bottom end), enjoy the tinkering and keep it to bash around on......

 

[2strokerfun]

My recommendation is also: Don't chintz out on bearings and gaskets when you have damage to your engine like this.

 

[akagalford]

Well since vintage bob put it that way, another $46.00 doesn't really matter huh? Ordered the bearings today. What about the bearings that run the gears? Do those ever get affected by this?

With all the reading I've done on this topic this week I realized my 1991 KDX200 has never had the piston replaced. Just added that to my order and going to do that one to. It would kill me to loose that one, been riding it for a very long time.

 

[holeshot]

Ordered the bearings today. What about the bearings that run the gears? Do those ever get affected by this?

This being a two stroke, the gear shaft bearings are in a separate compartment and cannot be contaminated from debris from the piston/cylinder. At least you will learn how a two stroke works from this experience. It's surprising how few people actually know.

I'm just wondering how the "no resistance when kicking" thing got by you when you bought it (an expansion chamber wouldn't do this).

You didn't mention crank seals in your order. If you are already in there replacing crankbearings, you should replace the crank seals as well (these seals are critical for optimum performance on a two stroke). The seals may be fine as they are, but you don't want to put everything back together and find that you should have replaced them.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

For what its worth at this point? I would sure as hell replace the last few bearings in the tranny, all 4 of them. The tranny is separate from the engine, till the seals/bearings fail, sometimes from a blown clutch! The little blind bearing on the left side main shaft, and the abused bearing behind the clutch, should be replaced when ever the clutch goes out! You would be surprised where all vibrations come from, and I sure hope it was a given to replace all the seals. Its so much cheaper getting the complete kits, leave no "iffy" areas, and your best chance at not doing this again, for a little while anyways. An entire 3 to 400 dollars in parts?

 

[akagalford]

This being a two stroke, the gear shaft bearings are in a separate compartment and cannot be contaminated from debris from the piston/cylinder. At least you will learn how a two stroke works from this experience. It's surprising how few people actually know.

I'm just wondering how the "no resistance when kicking" thing got by you when you bought it (an expansion chamber wouldn't do this).

You didn't mention crank seals in your order. If you are already in there replacing crankbearings, you should replace the crank seals as well (these seals are critical for optimum performance on a two stroke). The seals may be fine as they are, but you don't want to put everything back together and find that you should have replaced them.

True, learning a lot from the whole experience.

I ordered a bearing kit which included the seals.

The no resistance part came from "Oh its such a great deal lets grab it now rush. I never gave it a kick while there on site and only moved the kicker with my hand to make sure it wasn't seized. Chalk it up to inexperience. Never been around a bike with a blown top end prior to this. Looking back had I known what to look for it would have been very easy to detect.

 

[akagalford]

For what its worth at this point? I would sure as hell replace the last few bearings in the tranny, all 4 of them. The tranny is separate from the engine, till the seals/bearings fail, sometimes from a blown clutch! The little blind bearing on the left side main shaft, and the abused bearing behind the clutch, should be replaced when ever the clutch goes out! You would be surprised where all vibrations come from, and I sure hope it was a given to replace all the seals. Its so much cheaper getting the complete kits, leave no "iffy" areas, and your best chance at not doing this again, for a little while anyways. An entire 3 to 400 dollars in parts?

We decided to go ahead and replace all of the main bearings in the tranny too but have a question. There are several bearings which are unable to be pressed out from the other side. How do you properly remove them? Is there a different tool to use on these? Nothing in my Clymer manual covers it.

 

[akagalford]

Update:

Frame was soda blasted tonight, going to re-powder coat it Black and polishing the sway arm and engine covers. Should look really nice when done. Frame will be repainted before parts for the engine even get here. Engine tear down is complete and stalled by awaiting parts. More pictures to come soon.

Anyone have a suggestion on how to pull the bearings that have no access from the other side of the case? Still looking for a solution.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Look at an online parts micro fiche, its called a blind bearing, chalk one up for clymers, if they have to tell you kinda thing? I am not scared, go to Motion Pro and acquire the proper size blind bearing remover, it collapses to go on the inside, then spreads and removes it, kind of kinky in the morning? The parts micro fiche will tell you the bearing size, and you get the correct puller. THE OEM SHOP MANUAL WOULD HAVE LISTED IT, I HOPE. STUPID CAP LOCK? Have fun with Kawasaki's' inflated oem parts?

 

[akagalford]

More pictures of the progress:

 

[akagalford]

Couple More:

 

[akagalford]

Been a while since I got back to this but to give a quick update the beast is back together finally!

I sent off the top end to Eric Gorr and had him put in the big bore kit. Its now a 144!

Will update with pictures little later this week. :boss: