Ball Hone questions.

I

IrishEKU

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Here we go :(

While working on the YZ( before one heck of a memorable ride on a pumpkin the next day) I pulled the reed block and noticed filelings(sp) in the intake hence doing the topend this weekend. At work we have the size I need but my question is, for how long do I hone the cylender and what type of solvent/hone oil do I use? This is a first for me and have the trusty Clymer manual. Any tips, tricks and general knowledge in the process?

Thanks in advance,

 

bclapham

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before that, i would be more concerned where the fillings in the intake were coming from philip!

 

I

IrishEKU

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Bruce my best bet is eiter the piston nailing the power valve or a missing circlip. The bike ran strong up untill my ride in the rain, also add a bad filter to the list when I did, I haddn't noticed it untill I started the tear down but water had been making it's way into the system. The filings are really small and I wonder if it could have been from improper break in. Better yet will an '89 cylender be able to be honed this way?

 

WoodsRider

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In my experience you want to use a ball hone just long enough, 2 to 5 strokes, for a crosshatch to appear. You want to produce peaks in the surface that will shear off and seat the ring to the cylinder creating a load bearing plateau surface. The valleys in the surface finish will then retain oil for lubrication between the rings and the load bearing plateau.

During honing you can use WD-40 for lubrication of the stones. Make sure to clean the cylinder bore with a stiff nylon brush to remove any residue. Most important, measure the cylinder bore before and after and make sure you have the proper size piston.

 

I

IrishEKU

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WR,
I had planed on washing it with a scoth pad and a degreeser prior to honing. :thumb: Thanks for the input. Anything I should do to the cap?

As for the size it's a STD. That is the replacement that I have on hand. Will honing throw that off? I understand that the honing process will remove a little, but enough to require an adjustment in rings?


Admin Edit*
Upon further thinking about filings in the intake between the reeds and the piston, lower berings come to mind. First top end I did(On this machine) didn't reveal any play. I may come accros some now though :(

 

RM_guy

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Here's a real good thread on doing top ends http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42210

 

I

IrishEKU

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Good Read RM, I'll have to remember to grab my micrometer on the way out the door :thumb:

 

Jaybird

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Phillip, you want to learn about ring-end gap and how to properly measure it.

Is this your first top end, or not?

Did you get Admin Edited, or did just add that part because you become an admin? Congratulations, man!

 

I

IrishEKU

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Originally posted by Jaybird
Phillip, you want to learn about ring-end gap and how to properly measure it.

Is this your first top end, or not?

Did you get Admin Edited, or did just add that part because you become an admin? Congratulations, man!

Click to expand...

Jay, actually I'm kind of worried about the ring gap and running the hone the 100 times he (Kawi Tech) said too(WR, I am going with your advice). The gap on my new one sholdnt be more than .03-.05 mm? Another thing is the fine fileings, the only thing I can think of is pston hitting power valve or can the catastophic one and that is swallowing a circlip. If it is the latter no amount of honing is going to help and I might as well bite the bullet and get it punched out.

About the amin edit thing: :confused: nope, I highly doubt OKIE would ever consider that, but thanks for the sarchastic whit :thumb:

 

marcusgunby

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Fine filings wouldnt suggest powervalve contact or a circlip to me-im thinking of big end/main bearing problems but i am guessing.

 

I

IrishEKU

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Marcus if that's the case then it's bite the bullet time and for me to have fun(yeah right) split the cases.