Bearing replacement
- Thread starter jbrim
- Start date
To remove the old wheel bearings you need a long flat tipped punch and a 2 lb. short handle sledge hammer (light blows with a heavy hammer work better than heavy blows from a light hammer). With the wheel removed, place it on an empty 5 gal. bucket or similar container--the idea is to get the wheel off the ground so the bearing has some place to fall as you tap it out. Be aware that one side of the wheel bearing (both front and rear) have a retaining circlip that must be removed--you should see it once you remove the dust seals and clean out the caked on dirt.
Anyway, on to the bearing removal, insert the long punch into the axle hole from the opposite side you wish to remove. As you slide the punch down the axle hole holding it against the center spacer (the cylindrical metal spacer that sets between the two wheel bearings) you should feel it catch an edge right at the back side of the wheel bearing. Angle the punch and give a firm blow; yes, the punch will slide through the axle opening, so be aware. This first blow should nudge the wheel spacer over enough to give you a little more area for the punch to catch. From this point, tap out the bearing by striking it top, bottom, side, side; no, this isn't a dance step. You want the bearing to come out squarely so as not to oval out the hub. If the wheel bearings are a little stubborn don't pound on them, try a little WD-40 and remember the 2 lb. hammer should do the trick with light to moderate blows.
As for swingarm bearings an appropriate sized socket that fits on the outside race is the ticket here and the 2 lb. hand sledge again; however, I recommend going to a shop with a press and have them pressed out. Either way, remember to support each side of the swingarm as you remove the bearings; you don't want to snap the swingarm in half.
Replacement is fairly easy, grease the outside race to prevent galling and to aid in pressing them in. Again, a socket sized to contact the outside bearing racing is key. Prior to installation place the bearing in the deep freeze for several hours (I do it the night before). If your oven is large enough, place the swingarm in it at 300 deg. for 15-20 minutes--don't forget to wear gloves. Good luck :cool:
Anyway, on to the bearing removal, insert the long punch into the axle hole from the opposite side you wish to remove. As you slide the punch down the axle hole holding it against the center spacer (the cylindrical metal spacer that sets between the two wheel bearings) you should feel it catch an edge right at the back side of the wheel bearing. Angle the punch and give a firm blow; yes, the punch will slide through the axle opening, so be aware. This first blow should nudge the wheel spacer over enough to give you a little more area for the punch to catch. From this point, tap out the bearing by striking it top, bottom, side, side; no, this isn't a dance step. You want the bearing to come out squarely so as not to oval out the hub. If the wheel bearings are a little stubborn don't pound on them, try a little WD-40 and remember the 2 lb. hammer should do the trick with light to moderate blows.
As for swingarm bearings an appropriate sized socket that fits on the outside race is the ticket here and the 2 lb. hand sledge again; however, I recommend going to a shop with a press and have them pressed out. Either way, remember to support each side of the swingarm as you remove the bearings; you don't want to snap the swingarm in half.
Replacement is fairly easy, grease the outside race to prevent galling and to aid in pressing them in. Again, a socket sized to contact the outside bearing racing is key. Prior to installation place the bearing in the deep freeze for several hours (I do it the night before). If your oven is large enough, place the swingarm in it at 300 deg. for 15-20 minutes--don't forget to wear gloves. Good luck :cool:
To add to last post for swing arms. I use a threaded rod and some nuts with the socket trick. This makes your own press when you tighten the nuts down against the socket. A press is a lot quicker but since I don't have one the threaded rod is real cheap and I already have all the sockets to fit and when installing the new bearings you are not pounding but pushing the bearing into place. Use the grease but with the rod you don't need the oven or freezer.
Sunny State KDX
Member
- May 26, 2005
- 105
- 0
Thats a great generic press idea Ted :)
Thanks that one is getting stored in the memory bank
Thanks that one is getting stored in the memory bank
Jackpiner57
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- Aug 11, 2002
- 356
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For rear wheel bearings I warm up the hub with a propane torch and then knock out the bearing. I freeze the new ones and hammer them straight into a warmed up hub with a Craftsman 1 1/4" 1/2" drive 12 point socket and a 2" square block of hardwood. Ted, great idea! I'm going to try your method next time.
I'm not Ted but I too have used the "poor man's" press. Get a piece of all-thread, at least 1/2 inch diameter, a few fender washers, and at least three (3) nuts; make sure the all-thread rod is long enough to accommodate your hub and the appropriate size socket. Put two nuts on one end (one acts as a locking nut) and a fender washer or two (the second washer is for added strength), run the all-thread through the hub, swingarm or whatever you are pressing the bearing into. On the the opposite end set the fresh bearing that you just pulled out of the freezer in place, don't forget to put some grease or anti-seize on the race, now run the correct size socket that matchs up with the outer bearing race, another fender washer and the nut onto the all-thread. Begin tightening the single nut side of the all-thread rod, while keeping the other end from rotating with the appropriate size wrench on the top nut. Be sure to press the bearing in squarely, some times I have to remove the all-thread and use a hard plastic hammer to gently tap the outer bearing race to keep things square. Reinsert the all-thread as before and slowly keep pressing the bearing in until it is properly seated. Okay, here is the important part, don't forget to put the spacer back into the hub before you press in the second bearing otherwise :bang: back to my post on how to remove the bearing. There you go :)
I do what mitch does except I am using a M10 threaded rod. It is real close to 3/8" on my calipers. This smaller rod allows you to use 3/8 drive sockets. I also use a socket on each end of the hole I am operating on. By using a large socket like 24mm, the bearings will fall into it when pushed out. I suppose I could use the washers and have them on the opposite hole of the swing arm. I just never tried it that way, I wonder if it flexes the swing arm.
lots of good posts on this one.one thing to mention here is that my dealer removes and replaces bearings for me at no charge as long as i buy the parts from them.that is why i deal with the dealer it may cost more in the short run but is cheaper in the long if you have a good dealer if not find one.have resently seen some new wheel bearings think it was a ktm but not sure and it required a special puller for the wheel bearings or you would most likley damage the casting.good luck
