Bought '90 KDX 200 - Looking for info.

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Sep 17, 2007
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#1
Hello to all!

I recently had to sell a beautiful, much nicer bike (sniff, sob!) to create some extra "buffer money" cash since we now have a baby in the picture... and there is this weird political situation threatening the job security of my wifes job when she returns back to work after maternity leave.

THAT BEING SAID...

Not wanting to be without a Dirt Bike I picked-up a 1990 Kawasaki KDX 200 off Craigslist for $650. Figured I'd at least have something to ride in the meantime.

Unfortunately, the seller didn't have an owner's manual or service manual to go with it.

I was hoping a fellow rider here on the site could tell me where to download such info in PDF format perhaps!?

Or better yet... perhaps they could allow me to maintain an "off-site backup copy" of their PDF file for them? ;)

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For starters... how much oil to put in the bottom end? What weight?

I was figuring I'd probably run something like Golden Spectro at either 50:1 or 40:1 thereabouts. It's never done me wrong in the past. Thoughts on this?

I also seem to recall going over someone's post which talked about installing Fork Springs from an XR to help things out for us bigger or more balls-out kinda guys. (I'm a lil' over 200 Lbs @ 5'10" 38yrs old, riding since 12 yrs old)

I plan to replace the fork oil anyway since the Front Fork Seals have to be replaced from the get go. So I was thinking I could get all that other work done at the same time (stiffer springs/ ?Gold Valve?)... but obviously would need part numbers and need to pre-order all the needed parts ahead of time so I could have a shop do it all at once since it'll be taken apart anyway.

I also noted that the shift lever was quite loose/floppy. There is currently a buncha grime built-up where the shifter attaches to the shift-shaft from chain-fling off the counter-shaft.

I figured that one should be a simple tightening-down of the shift lever, I'll know after I get the time to spray some engine de-greaser in there. but.. it does look like I'll at least have to take-off the chain to have enough room below the counter-shaft sprocket to get at that area.

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The counter-shaft sprocket seems very exposed right beside where a rider's boot would rest nearby. Can somebody post two side-view pics of their 1990 model so that I may compare?

I'm thinking this bike is perhaps missing a protective cover that would go in that area. Perhaps I could buy or make one.

---

Also... I remembered reading on the JustKDX site about how using Boyesen Power Reeds is a relatively inexpensive boost. On the Boyesen site they didn't show a reed block for sale... just their RAD valve thing. I remembered reading in JustKDX that they'd felt there wasn't a decent benefit from the Rad Valve thing to warrant the cost... so my question on this part is if I purchase the simple Power Reeds, is there already a reed cage inside the KDX's intake? If not (which I believe in the case) where to I get a reed cage (maybe I'm not calling it by the right terminology) to hold the reeds in place. Sorry if I'm not expressing myself well on this one.
-G
 
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#2
1990 tips

Hey,
I've had a 1990 E2 for about 4 years now. I can't help you with the manual thing but check the big "E" auction site for the manual. They come up all the time.

You can get quite a bit out of this bike for relatively little Money. It's not a KTM Exc 300 out of the box but you can work on it to make it a pretty fun bike to ride.

For starters... how much oil to put in the bottom end? What weight?: You put in 800ml. If you clean the grime off of where the fill up plug is for the tranny it will say .8litres
I use 85wt Maxima in the summer and 80wt in the fall. I'm paranoid about transmissions so I but the good stuff. Look at the posts in the beginning of the forum for all tips on KDXs...I think the post is named "Every KDX rider should look at this".

Fork Springs: I put in heavier fork springs but I had to go to the Kawasaki dealer to order them. They make a huge difference if you're over 200lbs. I got both the stiffer springs and the fork seals done at the dealer as I'm always rushed on fixing the rest of the bike in the spring. That's too tecnical for me at this time as well.

Re: Shift lever: Once you clean the gunk out you will see a 8mm or 10mm nut that can be tightened. Pretty straight forward. It always gets burried by oil and dirt. Just clean it off, it's there. You should not have to take off the chain. I have tightened it out on the trail a number of times.

Re: Sprocket guard: There is supposed to be a grey guard that goes over the sprocket. There are about 3 threaded holes around the area to mount the guard. You might be able to order one through a dealer or make your own. Sorry, I don't have a picture available at the moment but you might find one online.

To get the most out of the 1990 here are the steps I took:
1) Remove the snorkel in the air box. HUGE difference for no money. Some people like to drill holes in the airbox as well to lean it out. You have to be careful if you do that. Do it in steps and play with the jetting. Take the snorkel off first. See how it goes. If it's sufficient stay there unless you have time to play around quite a bit with the jetting.
2) FMF fatty pipe: Most expensive upgrade but the biggest difference in power came from putting on this pipe.
3) Boysen Reeds: you don't need a new cage. Just the reeds. Buy them and install them. The reed cage already exists in the bike.
4) Silencer: I just got an aftermarket silencer this year. Not sure how much this increased power. I think it did but not as much as when I removed the snorkel and installed the FMF pipe.

Extra info: Bearings etc. as usual go on you quite often if not maintained. There are lots of aftermarket companies that sell them. The Kawi bearings are outrageously expensive.

With all my mods I just run PJ1 semi-synthetic at about 40-1. 32-1, which is the recommended mixture gummed up my plugs.

The bike is really easy to work on and parts are relatively inexpensive compared to KTM for example. Use all of the auction sites to your advantage and you'll find parts (i.e. a pipe or reeds). Have fun and keep it between the trees.
 

dirt bike dave

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#3
I used to have a '90, and my buddy had an '89. The stock jetting was too rich and the stock forks have too light a spring and too much high speed compression damping.

The Race Tech cartridge fork emulators and stiffer springs will make a huge improvement.
He ran Golden Spectro in his around 50:1 for years. I ran Maxima Super M about 45:1.
 
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#4
Can't thank you enough!!

That's soo great!

Thanks you guys! I can't thank you enough for your help.

I had to give-up a 2002 KTM 450 MXC with an extra set of wheels for easy-swapping that was also Cali-License-Plated... that had been Re-Sprung and Re-Valved front and back by 3 Brothers racing. And when Dual-sporting it... the guy put on the hardware to push-button start it from an EXC model.

Sigh... she will be sorely missed... the suspension was perfection.

Be that as it may... I decided I was not going to deny myself my favorite past-time. The one that's brought me the greatest joy my whole life. So I went for this bike after reading a ton of user reviews.

First thing I noticed right off the bat was that she's really comfy to sit on. And quite a bit lower seat height.


OH... hey.... question... she has an Aftermarket FMF pipe. The designation is "K-14". I believe I read in another thread that means it's the FMF "Torque" pipe. Is that correct?

Also... she has a FMF Power Core II Silencer on her. Seem to recall from my reading of msg threads that those aren't USFS legal. I went to the FMF site and did a product search for this make and model and I believe it didn't show the Turbine Core as available for this model. I was surprised at that. Sooo... which USFS approved silencers are available for this year model?
 
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#5
RE: Heavier fork springs....

OK... so ... the heavier fork springs you ordered from Kawasaki... what was their spring rates so that I'll know which ones to order?

Can you remember how much various parts cost to order?
 
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#6
Fredette Racing Products - RB Designs

Check out this site for KDX springs and other goodies. I bought fork springs for my 93 from there. Jeff responds to his email right away unless he is racing a 6 day. So if you have questions he'll answer them.
Click Here
IMHO the most bang for the buck you can get for your KDX is to toss the forks and get a set of Upside down KX forks. There are many who have done the conversion. Try searching the net.
Then get your carb worked over by Ron Black of RB Designs.
Try searching for RB Carb mod. You'll be reading for hours.
Here is a link to his sight:
Click Here
Good Luck
PS I have a KTM 300 and still would not sell my KDX!!
 
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#7
Hmm.. which year/model of KX forks do people normally graft on?

I'm assuming you probably have to use that model's triple clamps as well??

That does sound like the ticket, as I do loves me some air! I'm around 210 Lbs right now (Ugh!) ... so I should probably also be getting a stiffer rear spring as well in those cannibalized forks.... right? What the spring rate for the stiffer springs anyway?

BTW... started tearing down the bike and cleaning everything... found it to have a MIKUNI carb. Looks like it has a Flat slide in it.

I seem to recall reading that they used Keihin's.. Sooo... I'm wondering wassup widdat?

Also the Cylinder Head is marked as "E-1" even though it's supposedly a 1990 model. I thought that was odd.

And get this... I think the air filter may have been the original... it was nasty looking and crumbled apart upon removal.

Here's a question... I noticed the "Mud-Flap" for protecting the Rear shock from Roost is gone. I'm assuming most people probably just fabricate one to replace it. Any suggestions? I was thinking maybe an old used inner tube piece cut just right??

-Gary
 
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#8
mud flap

Mine was missing also. Searched and found Acerbis. I think Maier has one also. Mounted and all was well.
You have to redrill, but oh well, used 3 bolts to mount.
 
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#9
1990 KDX manual

I have a manbual in PDF format. Shoot me an e-mail address and I'll send it to you.
I also have a 1990 KDX 200, recently purchased. In the process of doing a full restore. When I bought it I searched and found the manual online, it is actually for a E1, but since then I have bought one for the E2. The only difference is about 5 pages added in the back of manual, I can scan those and send em to ya also.
 
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#10
Kawasaki KDX 200

I am looking Kawasaki KDX 200 Service Manual
send this at my mail

Regards
Solsona
 
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#12
Hey Lumpy

lumpy39us said:
I have a manbual in PDF format. Shoot me an e-mail address and I'll send it to you.
I also have a 1990 KDX 200, recently purchased. In the process of doing a full restore. When I bought it I searched and found the manual online, it is actually for a E1, but since then I have bought one for the E2. The only difference is about 5 pages added in the back of manual, I can scan those and send em to ya also.

Hey Lumpy ,
Do you think you could send me that PDF file ? I too have a 1990 KDX and have no manual .. PLEASE :nod: I live in the Northeast Part of the state maybee we could do some riding together . My mail is plbchb at ligtel com


Thanks
 
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#13
Another great tip: Change the front sprocket to a 12 tooth instead of a 13 tooth. Really helped for tighter woods riding and hills.
 
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#15
manual

if i could get a copy it would be a great way to start off the season, seeing how my dear wife put it away last year never to be found again. thanks ps kid1293@aol.com