Burn you Murphy! (Aka, I just can't win).

[justalonewolf007]

So, what goes on in the last month or so with my CR250 racing project? Oh dang. LOTS!

Except...in that month, some dude name Murphy stepped in with one or eight of his stupid laws, and I find myself beginning a full rebuild!

The CR
- Plastics on
- Preprinted numberplates on new plastics
- Seat shaved (er...still not sure how to get that blasted cover back on).
- Maiden voyage (disaster)
- Suspension/lowering options reviewed - And got quoted 900 bucks. YIKES!

So...I got the gas drained, mixed up a fresh batch, and started things up. It ran prettymuch perfectly!!! I was so exited that I couldn't wait to drop the clutch and tear up the yard. When it was warmed up enough, I did just that, and the bike died. Tried it again, runs perfect, dies and lunges forward when I put it in gear. So, I fiddle with the clutch freeplay adjuster thingy. That didn't fix it either. So...just for kicks and giggles, I grabbed the lever, and tried to push it around in first gear. That gigantic bastige was locked up tight. In neutral, it rolled great...so okay what am I missing?

DURH! The oil. When I bought the bike, I had checked the oil level, which was good. Mmmkay so I might as well just give it a quick oil change. I should've done that anyways, right!?

**When I bought the bike, I looked it over and checked stuff out for nearly two hours while talking with the owner. I did everything but a test ride on the ground. The thing was stupid clean, and looked like it only had a couple hours on it. That being said, I feel really really really really bad for the next person I buy a bike from.**

When I opened the plug, the most evil forsaken looking stuff poured out. I've seen dirty black oil, and I've seen oil that's lumpy and burnt...but this? This was unbelievable.

"WHAT THE?!?! THERE'S GLITTER IN MY CLUTCHES!?!?!"

**I detest glitter in all it's hateful clingyness!!**

I haven't even seen oil look this bad on the internet! I don't honestly think the previous *two* owners changed the oil EVER, or even removed the clutch cover. This was so bewildering because the bike was SPOTLESS when I looked at it, and the guy also seemed to know a LOT about bikes and their care! For a moment, I wondered angrily if the guy's wife had actually dumped a crapload of glitter in the thing somehow, in an attempt to get him to stop riding? This was kinda unlikely...but the thought still crossed my mind.

It was prettymuch a stream of metal bits pouring out of my motorcycle. I mean this in every literal way. I mean it so much that I'll say it twice! There in front of me was a stream of metal shavings (tiny chips I guess...) just pouring into the bucket I held in my hands.

Let's just say I was majorly bummed. The dad stopped in to see what all my not swearing was about, and we decided to force the issue. It's not like we'd be doing any additional damage. We threw in a quart of crap quality oil, and started the bike back up again as a rinse. The dad, suggested, that since we had it already started, that we might as well try force it in gear. At worst, I'd get it going in first, and not be able to stop unless I killed the engine. So, in the dark, with my flooded yard (very limited riding and turning space) with no helmet or gloves or goggles with the very tips of my toes touching on both sides and no seat cover (since I had just completed shaving it), I revved it up so it wouldn't die, and stomped it into first.

The resulting acceleration may have produced an uncharacteristic yelp of surprise. I was fully expecting to end up on my butt in the mud, but that seat foam sans cover is pretty grippy stuff!

I actually freed up my clutch by holding in the lever, and revving the engine some. That actually did the trick, sortof (thanks to that idea from my dad). I couldn't quite come to a full stop without the bike crawling forwards like an angry wounded beast, but we were able to confirm that things were broken loose. I ran 5 more quarts of oil through the next day, finding fewer and fewer metal shavings.

Finally, I pulled off the clutch cover to see what things looked like (yes, that should've been step #1). They looked very bad. While I'd rinsed most of the shavings out, I noticed that 4 out of my 6 clutch springs were broken. Removing the pressure plate revealed even more carnage. One of the friction plates had been eaten halfway through! The basket and inner thingy were also chewed up to the point where removing the friction plates and steel rings required breaking a couple off, until we broke one of the flaps off the clutch basket. I have never seen a clutch that shredded in my life. Not even on the internet.

Woe is me and my luck with bikes. I was about to pop the thing on a trailer and send it off for a ton of bucks worth of suspension work!

I called around to several different shops, and found out that replacement parts (the cheapest I could get) would cost over 500 bucks. That kinda knocks out my suspension fund. Then a complete clutch showed up on evilbay for 99 bucks. It's from a 97, but in excellent condition, and still within specs!

First practice of the season is on the 30th and 31, and first race is on May 7th. First official trip to the gravel pits for practice is on the 23rd of April (tomorrow).

Good thing I still have my little race bike as a backup.

We've decided to tear the engine down, and do an inspection and replace all the gaskets. I don't think the thing has EVER been apart.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

The used mx bike blues. But, it does even happen to a new bike, now and then. It just hurts, many dollars more. And it could always be much worse, you could enjoy older, even better not cared for bikes? Thanks for sharing! Vintage Bob

 

[justalonewolf007]

It does give me one big thing that money can't buy.

Quality time with my Dad.

 

[Ol'89r]

It does give me one big thing that money can't buy.
Quality time with my Dad.

Priceless. :cool:

When looking to purchase a used bike, it's a good idea to remove the oil filler cap and smell the oil. If the oil smells fresh and clean, it's a good indication the bike has been taken care of. If it smells like a dinosaur crawled in there and died, :yikes: you may want to pass.

Other things to look at are excessively worn foot pegs and sprockets. Plastic is easy and inexpensive to replace and can make an old beater look pretty good.

In regard to your seat cover, soak the cover in hot water. Place the cover on the front of the seat and stretch it to the back of the seat. Staple it in position and then starting at the front again and working to the back, stretch the sides down equally and staple to the seat base. If you have some wrinkles, remove the staples at that point and re-stretch and re-staple the cover. If you wind up with small wrinkles, don't worry about those. They will stretch out when the cover dries and shrinks.

Just my $ .02

 

[dirt bike dave]

Another seat cover install trick is to let the base heat up in the sun, so your staples will penetrate easier. If your stapler is marginal, this helps alot.

On the transmission fluid, if you are trying to flush the bits out of the tranny, try using Type F ATF instead of gear oil. The ATF has detergents that will help get the bits and fluid out. Lots of people use ATF all the time, and it won't hurt your transmission or clutch.

 

[justalonewolf007]

When looking to purchase a used bike, it's a good idea to remove the oil filler cap and smell the oil. If the oil smells fresh and clean, it's a good indication the bike has been taken care of. If it smells like a dinosaur crawled in there and died, :yikes: you may want to pass.

I did that...and checked the level of the oil. I think I lost out on that one since I had a cold. Oil level was good though, and reddish coming out.

Other things to look at are excessively worn foot pegs and sprockets. Plastic is easy and inexpensive to replace and can make an old beater look pretty good.

It had brand new chain and sprockets. The plastics looked used, but were in good enough condition.

In regard to your seat cover, soak the cover in hot water. Place the cover on the front of the seat and stretch it to the back of the seat. Staple it in position and then starting at the front again and working to the back, stretch the sides down equally and staple to the seat base. If you have some wrinkles, remove the staples at that point and re-stretch and re-staple the cover. If you wind up with small wrinkles, don't worry about those. They will stretch out when the cover dries and shrinks.

Just my $ .02

Good advice - My problem is just getting the staples through the plastic. They just smash to one side or the other. The heat idea posted below is a great one. I'll see if that helps!

Here's where it sits for now!

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Short, narrow staples, and a gun with some power, air is always better, or an electric carpet staple gun. The hand jobs are just that, imo. And keep it square at all times. The pic is close to how my 00 was all winter, minus the engine, plastics, front and back end. Steel plates last longer for some, instead of the stock aluminum set up. Unless the fibers or hubs was completely gone?

 

[IndyMX]

I found that the best thing to use to staple against was the garage floor.. It gives a good base that won't move, and you are able to get a lot of downward force on the stapler.

If you use something that will move, even a table, the stapler will bounce causing the bent staples.

Those plastic seat pans are pretty tough, but with the right technique they can be beaten into submission.

 

[pesky nz]

As suggested above USE SHORT STAPLES they go into the base easier and if the staple is longer than the base is thick they will eat holes in the cover when you squash the foam with your knees. I hold the seat onto the edge of my wooden work bench to allow a solid base to stop the staples bouncing and also work in the same pattern as old89r

 

[justalonewolf007]

1/4" short enough?

For now, the seat cover isn't on the top of my list.

Gaskets have arrived, and the engine is sitting loose in the frame. I'm just waiting for another set of hands to help me get it out of there.

 

[IndyMX]

yes, or shorter if you can get them.

 

[dirt bike dave]

1/4" should be fine with a decent stapler.

5/16" or 3/8" will be too long, IMO.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

That is a tight job getting the motor in and out complete. Even taking the spark plug out helps, but the top end off is WAY easier!

 

[justalonewolf007]

It only took the removal of the swingarm pivot bolt...and most of the skin off the knuckle of my right thumb.

Did it myself, with head intact. In the process, I smashed/pinched one knuckle between the engine and the frame so badly that I couldn't even yank it out despite all the pain and surprise.

Yes, I used that ladder to help get the engine out. Also, notice the sweet tie-down-strap-lift system I installed on my handlebars. Those go up to an eye bolt that goes through a beam in the ceiling of my garage. Handiest thing ever!

We pulled the head off tonight too.

The cylinder has some rub marks, but through them, the cross hatching is still showing up. BUT :bang: The piston and rings are stupidly loose. Meaning, WAY out of spec :whoa: My cylinder is marked "A" and the piston seems to be size "B" which is a crapload smaller according to the manual.

Tomorrow night, the dad is bringing home a sweet inner diameter measuring tool, so we'll know what is going on for sure.

 

[justalonewolf007]

Progress. Piston was a bugger to remove, but we treated it to a heatgun's persuasion, and the pin did come free.

With some more fiddling around and disassembling, the mighty 250 is now sitting with case halves separated. This picture shows that there is little to no transmission carnage, and the majority of the remaining hateful glitter paste is clinging to the inside of my shift drum.

Also, I had no idea the transmissions in CR250s were so friggan' beefy! Wow! This thing makes my old 80's gears look like they were created out of some cheap beer cans!

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Sure wonder how many clutch plates the previous owner threw in there? I have seen what 1 set does, its not that bad!

 

[justalonewolf007]

I rinsed a TON of oil through things when the engine was still together. Again, though only half of one steel plate was eaten up, it looked like someone had poured a pound of glitter into the oil that was running out when I first changed it.

Piston still hasn't arrived, so it looks like I get to ride my supermini during the first race of the season (tomorrow!!).

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Half of 1 steel? It had to rub against a fiber? The hubs are fine? Have fun tomorrow!

 

[justalonewolf007]

I had to get an entire new clutch assembly. Hubs were in terrible shape.

I will get pictures up at some time or another.

For now, everything is on hold, possibly even racing. My dad was in a pretty bad accident, and I've been spending a lot of time at the hospital with him. He won't be able to help me out with the crank removal or engine reassembly for at least six weeks.

 

[_JOE_]

Sorry to hear about your dad......hope he has a speedy recovery!

 

[justalonewolf007]

We just got him home from the hospital. We were mostly all there for six days.

The consensus? Shattered right heel, mangled left ankle, two fractured vertebrae, and one of the transverse processes (stick-ey out-ey things on the vertebrae) was also fractured. No weight on the right foot for 6 weeks. No weight on the left foot for 3 months. It's going to be a long haul.

The 250 needs the transmission and crank removed and bearings inspected. All that's left aside from that is a good cleaning and reassembly.

When am I going to finish it? I don't know. The 250 is on hold until further notice. My dad comes first.

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Hang in there, and I hope your dad has a speedy recovery.

 

[pesky nz]

they will never stop making bikes but you only get one Dad so good call, hope your all up and around soon