Can you solder parts inside a carb?

[kingriz1]

I am having a hard time with this carb. I have a really sweet 38 mm flatside. But I dont know how to match it up. Can I silver solder the inside of the carb will the piece hold up in the gas?

There has to be an adapter that will make this 38mm carb fit. It just needs to hook up to the motor and the airbox. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. i want to ride this weekend.

Sincerely,

Riz

 

[cujet]

I am not clear on what you are trying to match up, could you please explain.

My guess is that silver solder or lead solder will not adhere to what you are trying to solder, unless it is steel or brass. If you need to repair the carb, tig welding will often work.

Chris

 

[kingriz1]

One of the little pins that held up the float on the old carb broke. So I bought this 38mm but dont know how to get it to match up to the air box and motor.

So I have to either fix the old or make this one fit.

Sincerely,

Riz

 

[BullDog KX125]

silver solder wont work...

if its aluminum. Also the aluminum used in carbs and lots of other parts is more like 'pot metal' and will melt real easy. You need to be real careful putting heat to it. You could try an industrial grade of epoxy. 'Marine Tex' is some incredable stuff. Get it at most marine dealers.

 

[jamsxr]

could this be???????

a job for liquid duct tape--JBWeld :think

 

[biglou]

I would do two things-Number one: Don't get in a rush. Take the time to run a test possibly using your old carb or a scrap card from salvage if you can. Secondly: The JB Weld sounds like a good idea, but if there is any question as to how it will hold up when saturated with fuel, make a test "Blob" of JBW and let it soak for a week or even more in your particular fuel combo to see if it degrades at all. I would then make a final decision based upon these results. I know, it ain't quick, but at least you will have the peace of mind that it will stand the test of time (for at least a week or so!).

 

[someday]

I've JB Welded a float pin leg before with good results. I've also used it to patch metal fuel tanks. Work real well there too. It is impervious to gas. Clean the surfaces real well with fine paper or scotch bright then a little lacquer thinner. Apply with tooth pick and keep away from the float pin hole and float movement.

 

[kingriz1]

Thanks Eveyone,

I am going to try the JB weld.

Take care,

Riz

 

[Jon K.]

I broke the float pin leg on my old Husky once upon a time. I fixed it by cutting off a piece of a really small Allen wrench and drilling the carb body and the broken pin to accept the steel (Allen wrench) pin. Kind of like pinning a leg (shudder) back together.
I actually managed to do a good job so that the broken piece lined up with the carb body perfectly! The hole was drilled just undersize so that the two pieces had to be tapped lightly back together. I did use a little red locktite, but it was probably unnecessary. That was in 1978 and I would not be surprised it the carb was still working today.
Oh, by the way, chuck that float pin up in a drill and work the diameter down so you can remove it without tools and (amazingly) you will not break any more carb bodies!!

 

[kingriz1]

JB weld worked like a champ.

Thanks Guys!