Can't Ride? Here's a nice weekend project for ya!

soxfan24 · Jan 1, 2007

Well, with me broken throttle arm, i won't be riding untill january 22. So to keep my self occupied, i rode the ttr into the shed and started taking **** apart.
I found a few pieces of plastic broken and i ordered them right up. I've got a right tank shroud, white front and rear yz80 fenders and a nice set of graphics from enjoy in transit to me. I will also be stopping by my local upholstrey shop to see if they can make me a blue and white gripper seat cover to match the rest of my color scheme, blue and white, no black or anything.

Now onto the modification project:

I have been doing some reading lately and so i stumbled upon a product called metalcast from Dupli Color. Metal cast is a rattle can paint that if applied correctly with the correct primer will give an anodized look.
So i went on down to advanced auto parts and got 3 cans.

First i used a wire brush and soap to clean the gaurds off, then I put the DupliColor Ground Coat (This is the correct primer) and let it dry for about an hour, maybe less. After the primer was 2 coats of the DupliColor BLUE MetalCast Paint which i let dry for about 1 hour between coats. After the Paint was a DupliColor Clear Engine Enamel that can withstand up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit.

And wala, after about 4-5 hours of concentrated work and relaxation bewtween coats came this:

Now, there are a few more parts i did that have not cured yet that will be posted when finished. This was just a teaser of whats to come.

Here are the links to purchase the cans online:

Clear Engine Enamel
Ground Coat (Primer)
Blue Metalcast Paint

Some of you might have also seen this posted on thumpertalk.....

robwbright · Jan 1, 2007

What you have so far looks good, and I hope it works for you in the long run. I did some wiper arms and oil cap, radiator cap, etc on my Prelude a couple years ago. It didn't stay on plastic very well at all and faded badly in the sun on the wipers after some months. I was a bit disappointed, although it looked really cool for several months.

Then again, its cheap, it's in a can and you can always redo it when it needs it.

76GMC1500 · Jan 2, 2007

You've got to prep the plastic first with an adhesion promoter or ammonia.

I've been thinking about dressing up my bike. If I ever get around to replacing the rings in it, I'll probably pull the engine and paint it. I might as well do the frame as well. Throw some new Pro-Link stickers on the swingarm and replace the fenders and the bike will look like new. I would replace the fenders now, but a previous owner stuck the green sticker on the rear fender and now I have to wait for it to expire. No crazy hill climbing for me until June.

soxfan24 · Jan 2, 2007

76GMC1500 said:
You've got to prep the plastic first with an adhesion promoter or ammonia.

I've been thinking about dressing up my bike. If I ever get around to replacing the rings in it, I'll probably pull the engine and paint it. I might as well do the frame as well. Throw some new Pro-Link stickers on the swingarm and replace the fenders and the bike will look like new. I would replace the fenders now, but a previous owner stuck the green sticker on the rear fender and now I have to wait for it to expire. No crazy hill climbing for me until June.

Well, i don't plan on painting any plastic, never did.

And i really never understood the red and green stickers of CA....

robwbright · Jan 2, 2007

76GMC1500 said:
You've got to prep the plastic first with an adhesion promoter or ammonia.

I did.

kawicam250 · Jan 2, 2007

my 125's frame came stock with a green frame and sub-frame, so what should i do? i dont plan on painting over my green plastics, but my rims and hubs are still silver, will this work on at least the rims?

soxfan24 · Jan 2, 2007

kawicam250 said:
my 125's frame came stock with a green frame and sub-frame, so what should i do? i dont plan on painting over my green plastics, but my rims and hubs are still silver, will this work on at least the rims?

If you take your time, prep the parts, the rims could go about a 1-2 years before you need a new coat.

kawicam250 · Jan 2, 2007

soxfan24 said:
If you take your time, prep the parts, the rims could go about a 1-2 years before you need a new coat.

darn it! i guess i'll actually have to take them off the tire ;) . how many coats would you recommend?

loudandproud · Jan 2, 2007

you do know they actually have an adonize paint that you can you.

I really dont like painting bike parts as they dont liket o hold up.

kawicam250 · Jan 2, 2007

loudandproud said:
you do know they actually have an adonize paint that you can you.

I really dont like painting bike parts as they dont liket o hold up.

i know, but its a little too much $$$ for me right now and i would do anything to not have to wait 2 weeks for it to come back, plus its right here in my garage.

Q: will this method hold up longer than traditional anodizing done by retailers or specialists?

soxfan24 · Jan 2, 2007

kawicam250 said:
darn it! i guess i'll actually have to take them off the tire ;) . how many coats would you recommend?

To be safe with everything, put 1 coat of primer, 2 coats (maybe 3) of the actual paint and then 2 coats of clear enamel.

FruDaddy · Jan 2, 2007

kawicam250 said:
Q: will this method hold up longer than traditional anodizing done by retailers or specialists?

Likely not, it is only paint. Anodizing, as I understand it more closely resembles chrome plating that painting, which is why it holds up as well as it does.
Another option that you might consider is powdercoat.

BBking25 · Jan 2, 2007

if i get me a yz 250f i'm gonna pretty much immediately buy black acerbis plastic kit...

i dunno if i'm gonna use the stock plastics for looks and the black or just the black to keep the resale value higher with the stock plastics

kawicam250 · Jan 2, 2007

FruDaddy said:
Likely not, it is only paint. Anodizing, as I understand it more closely resembles chrome plating that painting, which is why it holds up as well as it does.
Another option that you might consider is powdercoat.

ive always heard that powerdercoating holds up longer( and sometimes looks better) than anodizing, i figured that paint wouldnt hold up as well, thanx.

FruDaddy · Jan 2, 2007

Powder is sprayed on the outside, then baked, it can chip, but is very durable. From what I have read, anodizing actually becomes part of the piece so it will not chip off, but this also make it pretty close to impossible to change your mind later. Also, touching it up after a few scratches will be difficult.
I have located an internet site that sells DIY anodizing kits, it is easy to find through google.
Either powder or anodizing would be a good choice, base your decision on how sure you are that you will not want to change it later, and the final cost of the project. There are translucent powders that will get you close to the anodized look. Either will last much longer than paint in the environment that we play in.

For the record, I have removed powdercoat, it sucks, but it can be done. I am not sure if anodizing can be undone.

76GMC1500 · Jan 2, 2007

Anodizing involves the formation of a thick layer of aluminum oxide on the surface of the aluminum part. Anodizing forms an extremely wear resistant coating that is difficult to chip off. It is so wear resistant, it is often used in place of hard chroming on shock tubes. Only aluminum can be anodized and not all alloys. Powder coating is more wear and chip resistant than paint, but not as good as anodizing. Anodizing is very resistant to corrosion, but just like paint and powdercoat, moisture can get under it. Ever see rim rot?

Anodizing can be removed, but it is extremely difficult. It can be sanded off and I'm sure it can be removed with electrolysis.

Jeromeo · Mar 3, 2007

If you are planning on painting plastic with a duplicolor paint then don't use the automotive stuff. It's formulated to be painted on metal and therefore does not stretch and cracks if you put it on plastic parts. Plastic parts from the duplicolor brand should be painted with the vinyl and fabric paint (which by the way is awesome to paint your seats with) or the bumber coating by duplicolor. These can both flex and are good for plastic. The trim paint is made for plastic as well. If you go to the duplicolor website they have free downloadable videos on how to effectively paint. I've used there paint and it's great. Hope i helped some peiple out

friar tuck · Mar 3, 2007

I've removed anodizing from mountain bike parts using Easy Off Oven Cleaner...it worked pretty nicely...I'm sure it would work on MX products as well.

Can't Ride? Here's a nice weekend project for ya!

soxfan24

robwbright

76GMC1500

Uhhh...

soxfan24

robwbright

kawicam250

I bleed green!

soxfan24

kawicam250

I bleed green!

loudandproud

kawicam250

I bleed green!

soxfan24

FruDaddy

BBking25

kawicam250

I bleed green!

FruDaddy

76GMC1500

Uhhh...

Jeromeo

friar tuck

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Can't Ride? Here's a nice weekend project for ya!

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