re: according to this...
Don't worry about a -30 (rev) pipe on a 220. That's the more often chosen pipe due to the 220s personality (port timing, compression, small bore carb and stuff). With a -30 you should still have plenty of bottom end on your 220..and the 220 needs all the help it can get on the topend of things.
re: elaborate
I don't have a 'Q', haven't ever ridden with one. If Rhodester says it's ok, it probably is. I only have anecdotal information regarding the use of a 'Q'. And, as I said, the ad itself indicates there IS a power loss with the 'Q'. I know of some 'Q' tips used on 4-strokes that were huge disappointments power-loss wise.
The TCII works fine...is an S/A and you can repack/clean it as often as you like. PC makes an S/A for the KDX also. I had better luck with the mounting/fit of the PC than I did the TCII. More than once riders have complained of NOT getting the required mounting hardware with the TCII. Make sure (if you get one) that it comes with the grommets and shouldered bolts to mount it up right.
I ended up making my own sleeves for the TCII I have. Used some hardware store bushings that only had to be 'remfg' a little to fit.
You won't have any complaint @ 88db.
re: inspected the seat.
Burnish it anyway. I wouldn't cut it. Use a moist (alcohol) q-tip with a strip of wet-n-dry over the tip. Probably 400g or so. Twist it around some. Clean it with a fresh tip. Check for bits of cotton left behind.
Make sure the floats aren't tweaked and rubbing against the bowl. Sorry for asking..but you realize the float level is set by bending the tang at the needle and NOT by bending the floats, right?
Not everyone does it the correct way. :ugg: