hey, im gonna be splitting my cases this weekend, never done this before, is there anything i should know about? and special tools? like a case splitter, where and how much to buy one? thanks for the information ahead. and its a 97' atk 250lq. 2 stroke if you don't know atk
case splitting
- Thread starter atkkid250
- Start date
I used a $10 steering wheel puller..
I had to get metric bolts, but it wasn't a problem. Lowe's had them.
The main thing to keep in mind when splitting the cases, go slow.
Take your time, watch things closely. And GO SLOW.
If you feel any binding at all, back off. It should not bind. You can use a dead blow hammer to tap around the cases while you're putting pressure on it with the puller.
It should come right apart!
I had to get metric bolts, but it wasn't a problem. Lowe's had them.
The main thing to keep in mind when splitting the cases, go slow.
Take your time, watch things closely. And GO SLOW.
If you feel any binding at all, back off. It should not bind. You can use a dead blow hammer to tap around the cases while you're putting pressure on it with the puller.
It should come right apart!
- Thread starter
- #3
mm, thanks
thanks lol, i've seen pullers for like 60 bucks and didn't want to fork out that much. this should help. i was talking to some other people and they suggested i take lots of pictures with a digital camera, so if i screw up i can go back and see how things should be. but it should be pretty straight forward right? nothing all spring activated that will pop out like a bb gun lol.
thanks lol, i've seen pullers for like 60 bucks and didn't want to fork out that much. this should help. i was talking to some other people and they suggested i take lots of pictures with a digital camera, so if i screw up i can go back and see how things should be. but it should be pretty straight forward right? nothing all spring activated that will pop out like a bb gun lol.
- Thread starter
- #5
shift forks
ok, thanks, nothing should get damaged easily right? i am really nervous about this so sorry about all the questions. also does anyone have any effective organization methods for keeping the bolts and fasteners together with their corresponding parts? i have used ziplock baggies when taking my clutches apart, but seems like there should be a better way
ok, thanks, nothing should get damaged easily right? i am really nervous about this so sorry about all the questions. also does anyone have any effective organization methods for keeping the bolts and fasteners together with their corresponding parts? i have used ziplock baggies when taking my clutches apart, but seems like there should be a better way
Ol'89r
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 27, 2000
- 6,961
- 45
atkkid250 said:
I use the little plastic trays that microwave dinners come in. Use one for the top end. Another one for gearbox parts. Another for clutch and primary side parts and so on. Use one tray for each section of the engine.
Also, be sure to heat the cases before you split them. Heating them expands the aluminum and releases the hold on the bearings. Makes it much easier to split them and doesn't wear out the bearing bosses. Heat them again when you reassemble them and they will drop together.
If you don't have a torch, you can buy a butane or propane plumbers torch at your local hardware store. They are very inexpensive. Heat the whole case evenly in a circular motion being careful not to hold the torch in any one spot for long. Aluminum melts at around 1100 degrees. Heat the cases until you can sizzle a drop of water on the cases.
2strokerfun
Member
- May 19, 2006
- 1,500
- 1
Ol'89r said:
Just don't leave them on the floor and accidentally step on the edge. DOH!!
If Im not going to replace anything in my transmission, I keep two 24" pieces of aluminum tape handy. When I pull the gear clusters, I wrap a piece of tape around them lengwise, making sure all the washers are in place. Then, I place them in large ziploc bags until time to reassemble. That way, everything stays together saving me a lot of time reassmbling the transmission (plus I'm transmissionally challenged, although I always eventually get it right).
- Thread starter
- #12
to pull only one side
i just need to take one side off, i dont need the rest of it disasembled, i need the clutch side off, the left. the rest can stay, i dont have to take the transmission apart for this do i? or is it all connected together
i just need to take one side off, i dont need the rest of it disasembled, i need the clutch side off, the left. the rest can stay, i dont have to take the transmission apart for this do i? or is it all connected together
- Thread starter
- #14
i have tried
i have tried everywhere, for an owners manual, and i have an engine manual, but it has only maintanennce stuff, how to check the plug, and the thickness of the clutch plates, the tension in the springs etc. almost useless. its about 20 pages long haha.
i have tried everywhere, for an owners manual, and i have an engine manual, but it has only maintanennce stuff, how to check the plug, and the thickness of the clutch plates, the tension in the springs etc. almost useless. its about 20 pages long haha.
I just finished a complete rebuild of my RMZ 450. I ordered a case splitter and flywheel puller from Rocky Mountain. Both worked great. I set up a card table in the garage and used a couple cardboard flats that I had from buying pop at Sams Club so I could lay parts out in order. This also allowed me to keep parts together by groups as Ol'89r does. Get a manual before you start. Theres no way I would attempt a rebuild without a manual.
Good luck, I learned a lot with my re-build and you will to. :cool:
Good luck, I learned a lot with my re-build and you will to. :cool:
- Thread starter
- #18
allright
everything is off, almost, theres one nut, the balancer gear nut i believe, that the dope who owned it before me used permamnet loctite on, nothing will coax it off, not heat, not a hammer, nor a cheater bar ot impact wrench. so im gonn have to split the nut, only thing keepint the cases together, and i could have had the part shippe dout today to be fixed to. :| other then that, used the ziplock bags, and no gloves, so my hands got a bit chemicalized but tis all good. everything looks good. everything went smooth. only thing stupid was that atk has the swing arm connected to the frame via the engine. where it is actually connected to teh engine. so when the engine came out, the swingarm is not free to flop about. also, how when taking those gears off do people keep the piston from going through its motions? i want to take thenut off, but when i turn it, it turns the gears which turn the piston, so i had a wooden handle wedged into the crank in such a way to keep it from turning but there has to be a better way? anyone have any tips? thanks, i no it was a long post.
everything is off, almost, theres one nut, the balancer gear nut i believe, that the dope who owned it before me used permamnet loctite on, nothing will coax it off, not heat, not a hammer, nor a cheater bar ot impact wrench. so im gonn have to split the nut, only thing keepint the cases together, and i could have had the part shippe dout today to be fixed to. :| other then that, used the ziplock bags, and no gloves, so my hands got a bit chemicalized but tis all good. everything looks good. everything went smooth. only thing stupid was that atk has the swing arm connected to the frame via the engine. where it is actually connected to teh engine. so when the engine came out, the swingarm is not free to flop about. also, how when taking those gears off do people keep the piston from going through its motions? i want to take thenut off, but when i turn it, it turns the gears which turn the piston, so i had a wooden handle wedged into the crank in such a way to keep it from turning but there has to be a better way? anyone have any tips? thanks, i no it was a long post.
Can't seem to find the wedge, but here's another option... http://www.rockymountainmc.com/prod...bCatId=22&brandId=allBrands&prodFamilyId=6067
- Thread starter
- #22
i just recomended this to someone actually, however it wont work for me on account of my jug is off the engine, no cylinder, no spark plug hole to screw it into lol, thanks for the info though, ill have to keep trying the wood, it shouldn't damage anything right?
