The best advice I can give you is take your time to do things right. The operation is pretty straight foward, so you shouldn't have any trouble.
As for the oil, since you are installing a set of springs with a sligtly heavier rate than the stock one, it's a good idea to use a thicker oil. 7.5W seems tobee the good choice, or you can try Mobil1 ATF.
Set the preload to 10mm and go with heavier oil. Mik's advice sounds spot on to me.
Start off with the oil set at 120mm then draw out an additional 10mm of oil putting you at the 130mm mark. Record how much oil you removed to bring you to that level. If you find the suspension is bottoming you can add additional oil to stiffen up the suspension as it reaches full compression.
Because you've recorded how much oil was removed to drop the level by 10mm you'll know how much oil to add to raise the level 10mm with out having to remove the spring from the fork. Add the same amount to each fork leg through the brass bleed screw. Check your manual for the maximum recommended oil level.
Remember to bleed the forks before setting the oil level.
If you need an oil level gauge you can find instructions to build one on the justKDX site or you can use a turkey bster and a quick tie.
If you need clarification on any of this just get back to us.
I have a 2000 kdx 200 and just installed .4 kg/mm fork springs and switched to mobil 1 atf. i learned alot from the operation but still have some questions. before undertaking this spring switch and oil change i carefully read over my service manual and previous forum discussions. i acquired many helpful tips. one such was to use a 3/8 th fuel line as a piston rod puller, i found a 5/16th inch that fit snugly and securely. this tool is necessary to hold the rod when replacing the springs and putting on the spacer.
i do have a question however, their was a small circular ring that cliped onto the bottom of the stock with three vertical fingers. it fits securely on the bottom of the stock spring but not on either side of the mx-techs. are these needed? i put them in again .
thank you for you help and suggestions
I just changed mine also, and here's what I did with the lower washers.
As you found, they didn't fit snug to the ID, like they did with the stock springs.
I bent 2 of the tabs (slightly) and the fit great after that. I was concerned that they wouldn't lay flat, on the bottom of the spring unless they were attached to the spring.
I wish I had known about the hose trick.
I ended up using :eek: a pair of vice grips, lightly pinched on the piston rod to hold it up. I compressed the springs with a tie down between the front axle and the lower fork clamp. I should have gone the long (but easier route) of just taking them off and doing it right.
It worked out in the end.
I ended up lightening my compression by 2 clicks. Gonna test it out today while mileing an enduro. :D
There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
Thanks for all the advice. Changed them last night. Everything seemed to go smoothly. However, once I hopped on the bike, I noticed a noise that sounds like the spring binding on the left side. Guess I will be taking it back apart and checking to see what I did wrong.........
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from BAD judgement!
The stock washers do tend to fit badly once removed from the stock springs. Reattaching them by bending the tabs around the new springs seems to work just fine.
Once you get to the point of actually installing the spring, put it in with one motion and leave it there. I've had one of my washers fall off even after I was sure it was securely attached when I moved the spring around. I thought, 'What can the washer do but center itself on the spring when I put the spring back in?'.
I found out that it DOESN'T center itself. It MUST be attached to the spring (and STAY there during the install process) in order to be installed correctly.
As to whether they are required or not? I'd not want a piece of spring steel rubbing on MY aluminum forks.
The time saved (and the process more correctly completed) by taking the forks OUT of the clamps to do a fork service makes it worth whatever trouble it is over leaving the forks in the bike.
130mm? What happened to the 100mm idea? When did that change? Is that new for 2001? Yes, it's a matter of preference..but I thought the STARTING point was 100mm??