Changing oil in these twin chamber forks is a.....

James · Nov 1, 2002

messy job!!!

I am getting better at it now that I have done it about 20 times but it seems like I always end up with fluid on the walls, the floor, and all over my clothes.

The worse part for me is getting the damper cap back on....pushing it back in there is a bear. I am leery about clamping the damper in a vise....anybody do this? I'm trying to figure out the exact amount of fluid to put in to get the least resistance but still have enough to bleed the damper. I had a good streamer going out of the bleed hole last night (too much fluid) and managed to hit the bike from 4 feet away. The honda manual does it in two steps but it is hard to measure the oil level down in there and eyeballing it is the main cause of my mess.

Also, I am having the hardest time getting all of the outer chamber fluid in the tube. Seems like there is always a trail running on the outside so I dump it and start over. Have any of you found the ideal measuring container that also pours easily into the limited space available. Right now, I am adding fluid in two parts so I can tip the measuring cup higher before it starts coming out. I also have to dump it onto the damper about an inch or two above the opening to get it to stay inside the outer tube. This works about 75% of the time.

I am also considering trying to figure out the residual fluid left in the measuring cup so I can compensate for it...is this a bit obsessive??

Just sharing some thoughts...no questions of substance here.

Papakeith · Nov 1, 2002

LOL! :)
I've got similar oil marks on the ceiling and walls of my shed!
Doesn't somebody make a kind of "diverter" that can eliminate (or at least gratly reduce) the mess?

JTT · Nov 1, 2002

Ok, I'll admit it is a bit messy, but spraying oil 4' across the room!?

Here's a tip....when installing the damper cap, put slight pressure on the cap and push it to the side, then to the other side. Each time you will usually get a little "pssst" of air bleeding out. This will allow the plunger down into place. You may have to apply steady pressure for the last 1/2-1/4".

As for the cartridge level, I use a fork oil level tool. (see http://www.motionpro.com/suspensiontools.html for picture, but you can build it yourself out of household items) This is simply a straw with a predetermined depth indicated at the top and suck out extra fluid with a syring. This way, all you have to do is measure the depth to the shoulder and mark the straw at the level you wish to use. Dip the straw into the marked level and suck out remainding excess fluid....voila!

Puting the oil back into the main chamber just takes some patience. I use a large graduated cylinder myself, and tip the fork slightly to one side while slowly pouring in the fluid. ...and yes, compensating for the residual is a bit "obsessive" in my opinion ;)

Hope this helps! :thumb:

Papakeith · Nov 1, 2002

Originally posted by JTT
Ok, I'll admit it is a bit messy, but spraying oil 4' across the room!?

Lets just say I'm overly enthusiastic at times! ;)

JTT · Nov 1, 2002

:think: :eek: :yeehaw:

James · Nov 1, 2002

Originally posted by JTT
Ok, I'll admit it is a bit messy, but spraying oil 4' across the room!?

Instead of pushing side to side (I'll try that next time) my method of getting the cap in was holding the damper between my legs, death grip on the damper in left hand (wrag around hex end for better grip), and pushing that cap in there with all my might/weight behind it and one big grunt. The "pssst" you mention was more like a "PSSSSSST" and that streamer came out of the blow out hole with some force...like a super soaker. I still have a bruise on my palm in the shape of a 32mm damper cap.

I also have one of those fork level things but it NEVER occurred to me to use it for this DUHH!!!

Originally posted by JTT
and yes, compensating for the residual is a bit "obsessive" in my opinion

The first step is admitting that you have a problem...I am almost there :thumb:

tracy harman · Nov 1, 2002

the damper cap is hard to put on if there is to muck oil in there. i use a ratio rite to pour my oil in the outer tube goes rite in no trails

pro-design · Nov 7, 2002

First off it's ok to put the inner cylinder in a vise just make sure you have aluminum jaws in your vise. Then pore your oil in the cylinder and bleed it with out the base valve installed. Don't stroke the rod real fast or you will get a shot in the face. I'm soory if that sounded bad but anyway all you concerned about is getting iol on the bottom side of the piston. Once you have bled it then fill the cylinder with oil so the iol level is just above or even with the shoulder in the cylinder.I ttalking about from were it goes fron small to big. If your iol height is above the shoulder too much it's a big pain to get the base vave bolt started. Once you get it in and tight depress the rod completley and pore the excess oil out the bleed holes. As far as poring iol into the outer cylinder use a ratio rite, I never spill a drop.

pro-design · Nov 7, 2002

oil is a hard one to spell

Jeremy Wilkey · Nov 7, 2002

Dude I had no idea you speeled as bad as I do.. Anyway important note here, on the 03 CR's you have to fill way past the sholder..

Just so that fact is not overlooked..

BR,
Jer

In the 5h grade speelling bee I went out the first round on chu, I mean Chew..

James · Nov 8, 2002

I will check to see if they have a ratio rite at the shop.

I'm not a bad speller as I usually get all of the letters but I tend to trun tehm around sometimes......so I can relate.

flynbryan · Nov 11, 2002

guys i have no help for you as i just wuss out and take my suspension to the shop,but i have laughed my butt off listening to ya'll difficulties with the showa twin chambers.......jeremy i know why you have such a lucrative buisness :worship: although i will say i was contemplating changing my own seals and fluid before this thread but now i will continue to employ my local shop :confused:

Dan105 · Nov 19, 2002

Well prob at the end of this week, my brother and I are going to dig in to the twin chambers on my 01 cr250 and change the oil and level and change the stack around to suit offroad. Im going to use honda 5wt oil. Any comments or suggestions for a first timer with twin chambers, other than not throwing oil all over the garage :)

James · Nov 20, 2002

Keep plenty of towels/rags/hand cleaner on hand.

It isn't too bad to take apart and put together as long as you follow the instructions in the manual.

They don't cover disassembling the damper in the owners manual. You should get ahold of some instructions for reassembling the damper before you take it apart as there are some pretty specific things you need to do to make sure it works right including placement of the shims/parts on the shaft of the compression damper and torqueing the nut. You will have to grind the crimp off the threads of the compression damper to get at the shims. Make sure you get all of the metal shavings cleaned out before putting it back together.

I don't know how much you know about adjusting shims and I don't know much. But if you are like some guys I have talked to who think you go in and "flip them" (for example) then you might wanna do some extra reading on the topic to make sure you know how that stuff works.

JTT · Nov 20, 2002

Tip1: loosen the top cap before removing fork from bike (50mm one), this is much easier to do with the fork clamped in triple clamps.  Be sure to loosen top clamp bolts first though.

Tip2: Cleanliness is next to Godlyness...self explanitory I think

Tip3: Take time to bleed the cartridge after refilling, nice and slow.  You'll feel and hear the air bubbles go out.  After cartridge is full and capped, compress the damper all the way and make sure it returns to full extension on it's own.  If it does, you did it right.

Tip3: as already stated...lots of rags :thumb:

Dan105 · Dec 1, 2002

Well we finally dug into one of the legs tonight on my 01 cr250. Everything went real smooth and we did it right. I dont think it was bad at all. Kinda near actually, I learned alot. I am very sure theres no air in the cartridge and all oil levels are set at what i wanted them at. My brother is getting good at setting up stacks, so im in good hands. We changed the stack, new oil and set the outer oil lever at the min. Doing the other leg tomorrow night. We are leaving the rebound as is for now and we havent disabled the midvalve yet cause I need to know how it comes apart but well see how it is with these adjustments.

Dan105 · Dec 1, 2002

Just went back and reread the topic, Jeremy why are you saying we have to fill way past the shoulder. Tonight I filled it just past it and I did everything right and got the air out and some fluid. Why way past on the 03's, whats different on them then on my 01 just incase i ever work on 03 suspension

Changing oil in these twin chamber forks is a.....

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