cheap tranny oil?
- Thread starter macscr125
- Start date
- Jul 16, 2004
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ATF type F is the way to go, you can use valvoline 10w 40 also but i prefer ATF type F. Give it a whirl
- Jan 8, 2000
- 3,331
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Matt, the fluid that you put into the bike does not lubricate the "engine", it only lubricates the transmission/clutch assembly. The engine is lubricated from the oil in the premix. Gears and clutch plates will work and last well with type F transmission fluid. I but the cheep stuff at Autozone for $1 quart and change it every time I change my airfilter...about every 3 to 5 hours of ride time.
Here's an archived thread on using ATF in gearboxs that might shed some additional light on the subject. ;) http://dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=5288
I would agree with the content of that thread. I have tried mobil syn ATF as I was told that it was the hot ticket. After 2 rides it does come out just as clean as it went in, BUT it doesn't shift under power at all. I went back to Mobil 1 syn and it shifts MUCH better...
i have read a lot of posts on this topic belray gearsaver looks a lot like atf but in fact it has added chemicals to help with heat of meshing gear not to mention a slipping clutch gets very hot so if you do not want to pay the high price of these fluids wich i do not blame you if you look in the owners manuel for most they recamend 10 w 40 engine oil go with it it works. if you want to spend a little more go with full synthetic .you will be glad you did :cool:
There's nothing inside a motorcycle transmission that isn't also present in an automatic transmission designed around Type F ATF. Gears, clutches, you name it, they're all inside an automatic. Type F ATF lubes them just fine.
Note that all types of ATF are not the same. Type F is NOT the same as Dextron III, Mercon, Mercon V, or any of the other formulations of ATF. Some of these formulations are friction-modified, which isn't the hot ticket for wet clutches. Type F is not friction modified. I run Type F. I'd think twice before I ran Dextron III or some other type of ATF.
One other thing: in engine oil, the "W" rating is meaningless as that is related to low-temperature pumpability. Since your dirt bike tranny has no oil pump and you don't run at extremely low temperatures, that "10W" bit tells you nothing. The "40" part is the only viscosity grade that is meaningful in a dirt bike. Finally, keep in mind that the absolute viscosity (not SAE grade) of a 10w40 engine oil is pretty similar to a 75w90 gear oil. There's a big difference in the SAE numbers assigned, but not in the actual viscosities of the products. ATF viscosity is also comparable to many of these products.
Note that all types of ATF are not the same. Type F is NOT the same as Dextron III, Mercon, Mercon V, or any of the other formulations of ATF. Some of these formulations are friction-modified, which isn't the hot ticket for wet clutches. Type F is not friction modified. I run Type F. I'd think twice before I ran Dextron III or some other type of ATF.
One other thing: in engine oil, the "W" rating is meaningless as that is related to low-temperature pumpability. Since your dirt bike tranny has no oil pump and you don't run at extremely low temperatures, that "10W" bit tells you nothing. The "40" part is the only viscosity grade that is meaningful in a dirt bike. Finally, keep in mind that the absolute viscosity (not SAE grade) of a 10w40 engine oil is pretty similar to a 75w90 gear oil. There's a big difference in the SAE numbers assigned, but not in the actual viscosities of the products. ATF viscosity is also comparable to many of these products.
gwcrim
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- Oct 3, 2002
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I'm not quite sure of why the average Joe would want to run anything other than motor oil. This thread is named "cheap tranny oil?" How much cheaper than 98 cent/qt motor oil do you want to be?
Now if I was racing and looking for every last tenth of HP, that's another story.
Now if I was racing and looking for every last tenth of HP, that's another story.
I'm not looking for the last bit of HP, but it IS really nice for your bike to shift when you are racing and on the gas and trying to shift. With ATF (Mobil syn, i.e. good stuff) or cheap motor oil none of the bikes that I have had this year (4 so far) shift well. Mobil 1 15/50 no worries, $5/qt works for me. If I found something cheaper that worked I would use it, so far I have not.
Just use a conventional motor oil that does not have energy conserving on the label..Most energy conserving oils are the lighter viscosities such as 10w30 or 5w30 and have friction modifiers that should be avoided....
Use a regular oil with a viscosity of 10W40 like Mobil, Penzoil, Castrol, or whatever other good brand you want to use...You can find regular Mobil 10W40 for $1.17 at your local Walmart and the other brands can all be had for under $2.00.
Buying the expensive $10/quart transmission oil is just a waste of money...Yeah, they've got a cool looking colors and some are real thick but you'll be building revs slower than a Yamaha TT225R with extra flywheel weight...
Buy some $1.17 10W40 oil and change it every other ride or every 2 rides...Your transmission should work well with this...
Use a regular oil with a viscosity of 10W40 like Mobil, Penzoil, Castrol, or whatever other good brand you want to use...You can find regular Mobil 10W40 for $1.17 at your local Walmart and the other brands can all be had for under $2.00.
Buying the expensive $10/quart transmission oil is just a waste of money...Yeah, they've got a cool looking colors and some are real thick but you'll be building revs slower than a Yamaha TT225R with extra flywheel weight...
Buy some $1.17 10W40 oil and change it every other ride or every 2 rides...Your transmission should work well with this...
Type F ATF is the only type to try. Like MTK said, there are differences in ATF as there is in motor oil.
Using a Mercon, energy conserving motor oil, or a synthetic ATF is using something that folks know to be a problem.
I've used type F in a variety of two strokes and never had one shifting issue at all.
The "hot ticket" (gawd I hate that term) is to find a fluid that allows smooth shifting, and to change that particular fluid out often...no matter what it is. The changing out often part makes a cheaper fluid like typeF atf, and cheapo 10w40 winners.
Using a Mercon, energy conserving motor oil, or a synthetic ATF is using something that folks know to be a problem.
I've used type F in a variety of two strokes and never had one shifting issue at all.
The "hot ticket" (gawd I hate that term) is to find a fluid that allows smooth shifting, and to change that particular fluid out often...no matter what it is. The changing out often part makes a cheaper fluid like typeF atf, and cheapo 10w40 winners.